RobC

Not so sure about the rules of the game here. But if it was permitted to ask a question it would be. What exactly is a thru-wall furnace [:-paperba and would you have a photo of the actual installation showing its exact location in the home?

I don't believe I've ever seen board sheathing. Regardless, Jak 531 If you can be more specific about the installation, I'm sure you'll get the answer your'e looking for. As it stands, your question could be answered a hundred different ways.

The correct location for the arresters should be at the upper most fixture in the system. Hopefully, your bathroom is on the top floor. Locating the arresters at the high point in the system will 'cover' all fixtures in the system regardless of their location. Before the advent of manufactured arresters, we used to run a 12-24" pipe and cap them off; over time they would become water logged and rendered useless. Download Attachment: WaterHammer.JPG 259.15 KB The biggest culprit of water hammer is loose water lines with 90 degree elbows.

The roof appears to have been installed while the material was wet with incorrect spacing and inferior, sub standard material. Here is an illustration you may be interested in Download Attachment: WoodShingleNShakes.JPG 373.95 KB The grade goes like this Grade 1 Handsplit Resawn 24" x 1/2" Medium Cedar Shakes. Grade 1 Tapersawn 24" x 3/4" Cear Shakes Grade 1 Handsplit Resawn 24' x 3/4" Heavy Cedar Shakes. Premium Handsplit Resawn 24" x 3/4" Heavy Cedar Shakes. (Add 15% to the first choice) So..........the butt of the shake is a first give away ..1/2" Here the correct installation method, Download Attachment: WoodShakeNail.JPG 275.04 KB Is this acceptable? - NO The tar paper is going to fade and wear out, no? - YES I'd be looking for loose or missing and rotted shingles.

A 'Grow House' is a home used as a green house to grow pot, generally in the basement. The electrical meter is bipassed and the furnace altered along with various other things??. Often times, structural alterations are made to accomodate venting. From the outside, the home 'looks' normal with (new) furniture sparsely populating the main floor, a common feature is an attached garage to load and unload undetected. Needless to say, the home suffers damage from extreme moisture resulting in mold and MDF trim swelling etc.. IAQ is another concern as chemicals are used and other substances that I haven't researched. As is evident from the photo above, the furnace vent has been altered and the draft inducer will not proof the vent, there is rust and mineral buildup on both the furnace and the water heater. I'm not too concerned with what we see, My question is more related as to the WHY these alterations were made and HOW they relate to this grow operation. Or for that matter, any other curious bits of facts you may have would help. NO, I'm not changing profession, althought the math is tempting 7 weeks for a plant to mature $1,000.00/ plant 500 plants/home All for the cost of a few months rent.

Does anyone know what's happening here. Download Attachment: Heating-GrowHouseFurnace_M.jpg 66.36 KB Download Attachment: Heating-GrowHouseVent_M.jpg 73.93 KB I've got the electrical figured out, talked to the electrician that made the repairs. Maybe someone out there could enlighten me on the heating/ventilation requirements of a grow house and what alterations are done to the various systems. Do they disconnect the vent connector and vent the furnace directly into the grow area? Do they leave the attic hatch open? ETC.. Found lots of mold like stuff on the attic decking, as suspected, otherwise it LOOKED like a normal home- on a busy street in front of a bus stop, if you can believe it.

I'd guess Brown + Acrylic finish coat.

Interesting, I would have thought my fat girl commend would have earned me a tongue lashing. I've debated the parallel vs series issue more that once with various trades and it really come down to preference. Here is my take on it, Series: Primary tank heats water to 90 degrees F Secondary tank heats to 125 degree F ie. you don't have two tanks at 125 degree F. The advantage is the economy of fuel and the secondary (vacation) tank last longer, supposedly! Parallel: Both tanks MUST be adjusted at the same temperature and kept balanced or one will temper the other. As to the which system lasts longer than the other, I really don't know??? Perhaps, from a landlord point of view, the series domestic system doesn't blow up all at once. Series is my preference- I have suites and a particular tenant who loves hot water. I've never had complaints. Here is the bill for ya, GET DOWN id="size5"> with the FLOCCULATORS Featuring- The Alum Brothers I'll be the guy playing the radio

I see in my rush, I wasn't quite specific with the temperature note. Whenever I see two water heaters in series I immediately check the temp setting knob on both of them. That tells me lots. This is the way I design them (actually my plumber's design). The first (primary) tank is set at 90 degree F and the second at 125 degree F, for this reason. As cold water is warmed in the primary tank, minerals will flocculate and settle to the bottom. This is what 'kills' a heater, over time mineral buildup interferes with the heating process and eventually leaks occur etc.. The second tank is there to finish the heating process and sees mainly 'clean' water. In other words, the secondary tank is on vacation, the primary tank is the one that does most of the work - heating water from approx 38 to 90 degree F or a 50 degree temperature difference. Here is a gas line chart, (sorry about the quality, it's a scan, another unfinished project) Download Attachment: GasLine Chart_M.jpg 49.86 KB

Chad, You have quite a puzzle here! Although the gas lines 'look' convoluted I wouldn't concern myself with it. I see drip legs of different lenghts that may indicate the quality of the gas fitter and the state of his truck and supplies arrangement..etc. I think you will relate to this as you are a tradesman yourself, the impression I get from your shop photos. Photo No. 1 I see the setting knob set at an extreme. Was it set at minimum or maximum? I suspect this tank is the secondary in the series, what temperature did you record at the faucets? I sense both tanks were set at maximum. Photo No. 2 bleeds with infractions. 1. T connection - not allowed 2. Small section - seam pointing wrong way 3. Insufficient fasteners at connections-three screw EVENLY SPACED around the clock (not at 3, 6 and 8 o'clock, thank you!) Photo No. 3 Bells- They are a ringing 1. Clearance to combustibles (as previously mentioned)- the base T' is of concern here and tells me that no inspection was conducted on this project. 2. Suction line insulation proximity to the 375 degree vent- unprotected..... 2. The 45 degree boot is questionable. Did you squeeze it to ensure that is was C' vent material? I'll bet a beer it's a duct fitting. 3. The 4" cap is not fully seated into the base. I'll bet you another beer there is only two screw at the joint. Photo No. 4 My favorite 1. Unsupported vent connector 2. Unprotected conductors (below 5' here). 3. Dedicated furnace switch tapped. 4. AND most importantly- This is where you have to send the children to bed and keep the women from reading this 'FAT GIRLS AT THE BOTTOM' or The largest (BTU) appliance is always at the bottom of the flue or chimney. The installation is parallel and not proper. Photo No 5. You mentioned, this is a basement The TPR discharge pipes are directed inside. So, why do we have a condensate pump? OR Is it necessary where you are? AND The whole thing apppears to be in an enclosed room as evidenced by the door jamb and stricker plate. Do we have sufficient combustion air provision? I have a few more questions........but I forgot Something to do with the tank shut off valves on the hot side and not on the cold side. I hope you wear steel toed boots on your inspections. .......I would. BTW I was most impressed with your CA post Don't leave it in the rain........please

The importance of ARROWS Download Attachment: FurnaceFilter_M.jpg 60.63 KB Download Attachment: FurnaceFilter3 _M.jpg 59.2 KB I've got them both on my PDA for 'show & tell' Permission granted to all who wish to use them for same.

I've been running into some UGLY stucco installations lately, I finally broke down and enlisted my name with Imasco Mineral and the Alberta Wall & Ceiling Bureau. They contact me whenever they have a seminar or presentation about stucco. Although I'm a retiring contractor I find it informative, escecially in talking to the 'old' applicators that don't care in giving out their secrets. Last year, they announced a revision to their book and I bought immediately. Mike, I suspect the information is a compilation of the North American standards that have been adapted for Canadian climates Chad, Check out my favorite quote, it may change your mind about spending the money.[8D]

OK! I couldn't resist This is for the forensic inspectors out there. Download Attachment: WidowHeadFlashingAssem.JPG 112.89 KB Download Attachment: WindowExplodedElev.JPG 150.49 KB Enjoy

This is an illustration I use to explain proper termination detailing of stucco at cantilevers. Download Attachment: TerminationCantileveredWall.JPG 46.03 KB Here is a foundation/wall illustration. Hope this helps. Download Attachment: CasingBead_ConcreteFdn.JPG 53.31 KB

Wow! An attached pool, never seen one of them before. Did you write up the vegetation being too close to the wall?

My initial response to the soffit stain was going to be something I caused a few years ago. During this time of the year I hose off the winter's dirt from the siding but a few years ago I got carried away and thought the soffits needed a good cleaning too. Except, the more I washed the dirtier they got, stray cellulose insulation resting on the soffit was getting wet and bleeding down EVERYWHERE. And believe me, the more you wash the dirtier it gets. But, the third photo talked me out of it. Here is my guess. The cantilever soffit photo may give us a clue to the problem. I see a 'banded' area at the outide perimeter that has not been affected, no stain on that area which indicate that it could have more insulation. I'd guess you're in a cooling climate most of the year, I'm thinking the home is insuffeciently insulated and 'leaking' cool air to the outdoors and condensing the warm air on its surface. The house would have the same effect as a glass of ice tea in the mid afternoon sun.....creating condensation on its exterior surface. As to the rust color it's more likely air pollution and dust accumulation.

Good point Neal, the ones I've run across up here have had heaters. Could be a marketting or regional thing. There are many variables in compressor design and without the 2 year refrigeration training I use the 12 hours/65F rule. In conversation with HVAC contractors I've come to realize that the topic is complex and can even trip up an experienced guy. Speaking for myself I wouldn't want to have to replace a compressor.

Carefully, If the pitch allows

AC compressors have a heater at their bases to keep the compressor warm enough to boil off the refrigerant. They compress gas not liquid, and running them cold will damage them. A compressor MUST have been plugged in for at least 12 hours accompanied by an outdoor temperature above 65F before I test them. Mike and Konrad have it right. I would have turned it off immediately and noted it in my report.

House wrap and building paper is an air barrier with totally different porpoises not to be confused with VAPOUR BARRIER.

Here's something I didn't know about ss sinks. http://www.americanstandard-us.com/pdfs ... l_1299.pdf Page 4 of 4 Please have the following in mind: Does anybody know how to display the page using PrintKey 2000?

There have been times when I have come across comments like this, “Moisture barriers should be installed on the inside of the sheathing in colder climates. It makes sense when you consider where the condensation is likely to form.â€

I can see this topic is in need of discussion. Tonight, Insulation/ventilation...............

Dan, Venting Bathroom exhaust fans into the attic space will cause damage to the attic structure. It has been known to collapse ceilings and cause $$$ in damages. If you want we can have the long conversation but venting ANYTHING into attic spaces is WRONG.

I was going to mention the incorrect placement of the ducts and attachement method but we'll leave it at that.[]