energy star

Is that heater in a wood shop?

You can look forward to spending 20-30k. The supply ducts will be to small for a/c (if you use a/c) I would buy another house.

Good call. Debris flushed out.

Jim, I'm on it right now. But would this still be on the up-side or rather, the bathroom side of the water in the trap? Never mind......I think I get it.

I will tie in vent, flush aerators, and brush my teeth down stairs. ha ha. Rich thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

The flame sensor is to far away from the flame. It thinks the burner did not light. Call the same people back up and have them come out with a rep. Every manufacturer has one. He will help the guy out. The furnace does not cost much over 600 itself new. Time to get a bit nasty. The dealer does not want you calling the manufacturer and complaining about him. Thats not good for him.

I changed the whole bathroom around. Sinks have traps. Shower has a trap. used CPVC. This is something I must admit I forgot to do. I just ran the 2" vent into the attic (yeah I know) I just have to tie it into the new 3" vent through the roof. I never did that. The attic has no hint of a smell, but I just did go up to check things out and saw I have a window blown out from the wind storm sometime ago. BUT, I don't think thats it because it (the smell)would have to blow past the water in the trap. It's like I have dirt smelling water in that one room.

Your only option is to lower the unit. Looks like about 8-10 inches.

I installed a new bathroom on the 2nd floor of my home. Two pedestal sinks, one toilet and tub shower enclosure. I have fed all of these with 3/4 inch supply water line. It travels from my basement to the second floor. What I did when installing was to take a supply line off the side to hit a washer/dryer. This dead-ended line is about 10' long. I decided not to use this feed because I found another spot for those appliances. Everything works just fine. But I have a smell. Smells like dirt. Very faint Every morning I wake up brush my teeth and then sip some water from the water spout. (they are very high) and I get this smell. It may be coming from the over flow hole on the pedestal sink. My question is, does the sinks require a deeper trap? or that line I ran for the washer I never used has accumulated mold in the line and I'm starting to smell it. If I fill a glass of water I can't really say that is the origin of the smell, I'm kinda leaning towards the traps. I was unaware of a deeper trap for this purpose. Anyways.... that bathroom is the only one that has that smell. Thanks for any suggestions.

I know. But that run must be level from the termination point of the flue on the unit. It may also flow up hill, but never down. So many things can and will go wrong. For one, the heat exchanger will be operating at a higher temp it was designed to.

Don't run that heater. You must go up through the roof in that application.

Richard it looks like mold is on the roof rafters. Explode the view and you will see. Back to the wall. It was probably built like that and over time bowed out. It did this because they used pre-cuts or 8' 2 x 4's to frame the house. When they got to the gable end rather than using longer 2x4's to frame out the wall, which i would do with the proper fire stops, say 12 or 16 footers, they just used the 2x4's and a top plate on top of the pre-cuts, then they used shorter 2x4's to reach the roof. the top plate on top of the pre-cuts is the weak point (almost like a hinge) This could be avoided by installing strong-backs or strong boards on top of the ceiling joists perpendicular to the end of the home. The boards would be nailed to the top of the ceiling joists and to the gable wall close to the top plate. This will keep the wall from moving in or out as this one did. Back then things were different as far as code goes, you can tell because I think a home built now needs more collar ties installed. I would just walk on the top of the ceiling joists right over to the area you want to get to and take a look. The insulation will fluff up a bit after you leave. You could buy a nine dollar bag of the same stuff at Lowe's or tell the home owner to, that is the least of his worries. Again that roof deck has gotten wet at some point in time.

The mold problem is also something that should be looked at. The roof rafters are covered in mold. (By collar ties) On that end of the home, is the space wide open? Like the living room and dining room are open to each other. with no shear walls or walls perpendicular to that outside wall that the chimney is on?

Any privately owned building does not have to provide a public restroom. It only must provide a bathroom for patrons. A public bathroom is one that is defined as for that purpose only. Come in, use it and leave.

All kinds of info. http://www.basementwaterproofingmassach ... m/blog.php

By chance did the oil run out or get very low?

I would check the installation of the stat. It's not the blower motor, it either works or not. Is it a Goodman stat? Something is telling the burner to shut off. Is the stat set to auto?

ca ching

The goodman thermostat (if one was used) Has no droop. Say if you set the T-stat to 70 and the temp falls to 69.5, the thing will come back on. kinda like it's short cycling. If that's not it, turning up the fan speed to much will move the air to fast through the supply plenum which will lower it's temp. When the temp in the plenum gets to low the blower will shut off, this will give the air in the supply plenum time to come back up to temp allowing the blower only to push hot air out the duct not cold. Dip switches are installed on the board so you can adjust the time before the blower comes on after the plenum heats up if it is a HE furnace. If you post the Model #, I could post some questions for you to ask the next tech. Check gas pressure plenum temp when on Dip switch positions Hole behind t-stat (for low voltage wiring) allowing cold air to reach sensor. Like I said try to get the model # and I could post some questions you could get the tech to answer. He gets 90 bucks for the call, lets get some data! Goodman equipment is fine, many say it's not. It comes down to how well it was installed. The best equipment installed incorrectly will not function as it should. Also, check the flue size. I don't think that's it because it's installed in the attic.

You can still buy them. Here's a link to one supplier, I have never bought one, removed a few. I wish I had one under my chair right now, my house is freezing. Go figure. http://www.vmisales.com/floor_furnace/index.html

I think you should call an HVAC installation company. As far as the flue pic goes, I would seek help. It is not my place to say, but I don't think giving installation instruction is allowed.

I'm sorry but I'm not talking about an exterior or interior chimney. The point he is trying to make (I think) is that a gas hot water heater vented to a chimney will vent naturally. This would be a slow upward draft. Now also vent into that chimney a fan assisted flue. It will force it's flue gases up and out the top faster. Most times when we talk fan assisted flue with a gas furnace it means it's high efficiency type furnace with a lower flue temp. With this lower flue temp the walls of a chimney will not heat up as much, preventing the flue from warming up. Now at the same time our gas water heater comes on, trying to vent in a somewhat cold flue with turbulent air in it. This is when cold capping comes into play. This small water heater may not warm the chimney up sufficiently to create the needed draft. So he wants the flue size from the water heater increased to help heat the flue. He also says that a flue in the interior of the home may be exempt.

Brian G, what was the prob? It's fixed by now, how are things?

I have met, talked and listened to John Tooley. He loves this stuff. Mike has a very good post, kinda brings it all together.

May I say that a 100 year old house is anything but a tightly constructed home. Homes are much tighter now. We are puuting a cap over the ground sorta speak. Go flop a piece of plastic on the ground, say 10 x 10, go back the next day and its wet underneath. Some people pay 6 to 12k to encapsulate their crawl space in the mid atlantic region.