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  1. The question is, have you saved any money? I doubt it, as the majority of the heat gain through the ceiling is from radiant heat. Lowering the air temperature in the attic saves very little energy. The only way it makes financial sense is if the vents are solar powered and don't cost you anything to run. You can read the details in the attached file. Of course, there may be other good reasons to increase attic ventilation in a heating climate, especially if you can't control the humidity indoors. Download Attachment: Attic Vent Report Final.pdf 1990.69 KB
  2. Yes, just connect them to the existing wire with an approved clamp like those shown in this picture. Download Attachment: DSCN0450.JPG 93.39 KB
  3. mcramer

    Manual J

    It's not that hard, but there is a learning curve. I've done it, but I wouldn't recommend going to the trouble to learn how just to do your home. Talk to a good AC contractor, he probably has a guy he subs it out to that you could hire for $100.00 to do it.
  4. Perfect. Just for fun, run a 12" duct from the outdoors to the return air plenum. Program the system to run the blower at 1/2 speed 24/7 and to ramp up to full speed when there's a call for cooling. This'll effectively pressurize the whole building. It's cheap, easy and worth a try. - Jim Katen, Oregon NO NO NO NO A thousand times NO. That will create a mold farm. You'd be bringing in huge amounts of humid outdoor air that WILL cause mold to run rampant. You would have to condition the outdoor air you're bringing in (at least at this time of year.)
  5. That allows the tile to lay flat on the underlying tile. If that corner was there, the edge of the adjacent tile would be sitting on top of the underlying tile. Download Attachment: tilecorner.jpg 17.53 KB
  6. That allows the tile to lay flat on the underlying tile. If that corner was there, the edge of the adjacent tile would be sitting on top of the underlying tile.
  7. Sorry MCramer, guess I missed the joke in your comment. It WAS a joke. New Jerseyites are way overtaxed. It's no wonder so many are moving to FL. We pay 6-7% sales tax and no income tax. Corzine should take a lesson from Jeb Bush. It's amazing that the politicians think they can keep bleeding the taxpayers dry with no consequences. What ever happened to the concept of cutting expenditures? I just saw your stalemate as a perfect example. But heck, you guys elected him.
  8. Agreed. The 024 indicates 24,000 BTU
  9. If you people in NJ would just pony up and pay your fair share of taxes, you wouldn't have that problem. . .
  10. The downspout requires bonding.
  11. mcramer

    Drip Pans

    A float switch is fine. The unit won't work when the pan is full of water. The owner will call an AC guy to fix it. The water will eventually evaporate. It's no big deal.
  12. Thanks Mike, That quintessentially politically correct response was good for a laugh! I needed that!
  13. It's a solid 1/2" thick with lots of coats of paint. I wasn't around when they built it, but it's a sand finish, so I imagine it's a base coat and a finish coat. I see lot's of sins in application of stucco over block in new construction. Most of the time it works OK though. It's very forgiving.
  14. It's a ballasted PVC single ply membrane. The ballast keeps it from blowing off and protects the membrane. Initial cost is low. Lifespan is shorter than other products, probably 10-15 yr. Life cycle cost is highest of any single ply.
  15. It's hard to get your head around this concept, but try thinking about it like this. When you insulate the underside of the roof, you make the attic part of the conditioned space. It doesn't need ventilation any more than the wall below it does. It's now just like an insulated wall turned on it's side. As for the shingles, research done here in FL indicates that the temperature of shingles over unventilated attics is no more than 5 degrees higher than the temperature of the shingles on a ventilated attic. It's an insignificant difference.
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