plummen

im saying this is where the factorys are gaining a big chunk of their extra efficiency.l cant make it much simpler than saying park a 10 seer condensor next to a 13 seer then put that next to a 14-15 seer ,notice a pattern in the size ofcoils for same tonage of cooling? [:-magnify

Click to Enlarge 22.83 KB yep,looks like no-lox to me! does that suffice for 110.3(B) for ya? listed as preventing oxidation on aluminum wire

denigrate patrons? thats funny because i recently got done reading 3-4 pages over in the hvac forum about a mis sized coil for a condensing unit where you guys called hvac contractors a bunch of idiots,or didnt you read that one? it was basically to the point where it said home inspectors were gods and and hvac guys are a bunch of idiots ! i guess that doesnt count huh?

uh they did,look at the differance in coilsizes between a 10 and 13 seer! that 15 seer unit i put in last picture is a 2t [:-slaphap

ive reccomended that to a couple ofthe real estate offices i do plumbing for.but they seem to think its not worth spending $125 to camera from the basement to the street with a copy of the video for $125.00 ,thats ok though because i own a backhoe too! [:-slaphap

if youre not changing any plugs and they have the proper plugs/switches installed that pretty much all you can do.the issues arise if they have the wrong plugs/switches installed or you need to add or change something. Aluminum wire expands/contracts much more than copper it also corrodes easily,the proper plugs switches have tin/aluminum plated screws to help prevent electrolosys

Good for him. Unless you were using Ideal purple wire nuts, I think you made improper connections. The Ideal purples are the only nuts I'm aware of that are rated for connecting aluminum to copper. I prefer, the Alumiconn connectors, by the way. Check them out. Home inspectors should be checking for aluminum wiring at the panel. Most inspectors don't remove coverplates from receptacles or switches. If a home inspector sees aluminum wiring in the 15- and 20-amp branch circuits he should be recommending, at the very least, further evaluation by an electrician. - Jim Katen, Oregon ive got a state electrical contractors license and several city of omaha inspectors that say i can do it that way

Well, did he "write up" the house, or did he simply point out to the prospective buyer that the kitchen appliance circuits were not GFCI protected, because the home was built before GFCI protection was required on any kitchen circuits (1987 within 6ft of the sink and 1996 for all receptacles serving the countertop), and recommend that, for safety, it would be relatively easy and prudent to have a couple of GFCI receptacles added by an electrician? yes it is absolutely legal to do that.the no-lox keeps the aluminum from oxidizing and causing electrolocize(spell check) between the 2 dissimilar materials. We can't order anything to be done but we sure as hell can recommend a safety upgrade be done when it's to the benefit of our clients. If our clients then demand that of the seller and the seller agrees to do it, even though there is nothing requiring the seller to do do it, we shouldn't be accused of being over-zealous when all we did was recommend the client make an upgrade that might possibly save the life of the client or someone in the client's family someday. So, is that even allowed? I thought that the only way one was allowed to pigtail copper to aluminum wiring is with connectors that are specifically designed and approved for that (Copalum and AlumiConn) and with receptacles marked CO/ALR. I think you should check this out, 'cuz you appear to be using unapproved and out-of-date methods to pigtail copper wiring to aluminum wiring. Home inspectors aren't required to disassemble electrical boxes though we do pull the deadfront cover off panels to investigate the conditions inside. If we find aluminum wiring in the panel, we need to make sure that the breakers those wires are connected to are approved for both copper or aluminum and we then have a reason to dig a little deeper and to pull a receptacle cover or switch cover to see whether the other end of those aluminum conductors are pigtailed properly. Even then, we might not be able to see much if the aluminum wiring stops somewhere inside of a junction box and copper wiring has been used from that junction box to the switch or receptacle. At that point, all we can do is report to the client that the house has aluminum wiring and that a licensed electrician needs to follow up to check and make sure that all connections where aluminum wiring is used have been made in accordance with best practices. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

tan oneswithlots of no-lox in them to prevent oxidation! [:-slaphap

Click to Enlarge 50.61 KB funny nobody noticed the tape on bottem of flue pipe when this one was inspected! [:-yuck]

Click to Enlarge 71.92 KB heres a 15 seer heatpump install from differant job last month,yes i straightened out the feet before i was done! []

Click to Enlarge 31.43 KB lets see if i can make this work

In my experiance goodman and summit coils normally go up by 1/2t inciments.2t and 2 1/2t are same coil,piston is differant.the biggest thing is to match the tonnage brand doesnt matter much,sometimes differant brand of coil must be used because of clearance issue.

that qualifies as butchering in my book since you can buy any size ofreducer you want at a supply house

the liquid line is the high side of condensor that pumps liquid freon to the A coil and already has a filter installed from the factory on every unit ive ever seen.The suction line on the other hand pulls freon/vapor back to the unit.If you need to replace the condensing unit the suction side should have a filter/dryer installed before condensing unit to catch anything from being pulled back into the condensor and or compressor.

Im not worried either! [:-slaphap

Nice to know us contractors are all a bunch of hack artists! have you taken into consideration that lots of stuff gets installed by bozos working out of pickup trucks and not actual contractors? some of us do go out of our way to make sure our work is very nicely done above and beyond any building codes! [:-censore

this is how you gain efficiency in a cooling system by making the coils bigger more surface area/more freon .look at the size of the coil on a 10seer condensing unit then compare to a 13 seer

what is your experiance in hvac field,or am i being too abrasive asking such a thing as ive been told? and yes i do refrigiration work also

how do you know it was a txv system and not just a 10seer with a piston/orifice? the high side of compressor will be restricted by wrong size of piston causing high head pressure shortening life of condensing unit.

you should actually have a 6" cap on the end for cleaning/inspection purposes so there should actuallt be another tee or wye in there

I just asked a question about how you guy handle this situation since i felt it would be part of a normal process of inspecting a house,what is so abrasive about that? You guys give me hell about my spelling and punctuation,im trying to improve that for ya.(im a 1 finger typer )what do i have to do here to be more accomidating for ya? If im that much of a pain in the ass Ill just go back to being the best knuckle dragging contractor I can be and leave you guys here to drink tea and get your jollys off reading versus from code books to each other! [:-taped]

Do any of you guys check the voltage at the main coming into the panel? that would tell you which side the voltage drop is coming from,or am I thinking like a contractor again? [:-slaphap

Around here anyway a firewall is 2 layers of 5/8" on each side of a stud wall between bays

Many houses have burned down over the years from guys using plugs/switches for copper wire on aluminum wire.