plummen

Like I said in my reply to your message. I tend to worry more about the quality of the work I do than how good of a wordsmith I am! Personally id rather find an inspector or contractor who knows how to find problems and repair them correctly than a guy who spells really good ,but burns down or floods houses myself! but Im working on it just for your peace of mind! [:-monkeyd

You handled it better than I would have! After the 1st couple minutes I would have been telling her to hop on her turbocharged broom! [:-taped]

Thats why i always use rectorseal on the threads where mast is attached on top of meter socket,also smear some clear silicone under the mounting hub before mounting it on top of meter socket

i saw a tee being installed on a 3" water service last week using the pro press method with water still drippin out the lines before it was installed,no leaks after fitting was installed. no way that fitting could of been soldered with water in it,i was very impressed! []

just replace the whole disconnect with a non -fused one and be done with it

do you have a picture of one of these units? only issues i generally find with goodman furnaces are igniters and occasional noisy inducer motor. ive found lots of trane heat exchangers cracked on the other hand,usually late 80s-early 90s 80% stuff.i was finding cracks in trane equipt back in the early-mid 90s

im thinking a combination of both.if they would of just spent an extra 5 minutes routing the wires and wrapped the split bolts with rubber splicing tape instead of just electrical tape it wouldve probably never been an issue. this was feeding a dentists office,orthodontists office and a barber shop in seperate bays above.somebody could of been hurt really bad since the wires are unfused between the meter and the disconects god knows what damage it could of done with a drill in somebodys mouth if would of blown! [:-taped] what really pissed me off was all the disconects have stickers from an electrical contractor i worked for 20 years ago,and most of the remodeling has occured in last few years there.that kind of work never would of happened when i worked at omaha electric service,things have really changed around there! [:-weepn] [:-weepn] [:-weepn] [:-weepn] [:-weepn]

Click to Enlarge 53.58 KB

Click to Enlarge 62.22 KB i found this when i was giving a customer a bid for seperating the electric service for seperate meters for each bay in a commercial building . crazy thing is she had 3 other electricians give her bids and nobody else bothered pulling the cover off j-box above meter socket to find this! [:-bigeyes

i come across that kind of stuff all the time, ive seen people pull the same stunt on building mains in apartment buildings! [:-bigeyes

i generally reccomend 5-10 gallons out the bottem monthly

nope,you want the san tee to roll up on the vent just like in picture.for a drain it would roll down

can it be easily reached from open window?

how do they get by rooming unit to unit? sounds like a fire trap to me [:-bigeyes

basic furnace 101 for those not familiar with them: 1-stat calls for heat sends signal to board(newer furnaces) 2-inducer motor should come on for a set amount of time creating a vacuam to close pressure switch 3-board senses switch is closed sends power to spark or hot surface igniter ,igniter will either start to glow or spark depending on type. 4-gas valve will open allowing burners to light if all else is working . 5-as long as the flame sensor (takes place of old style thermo couple)senses a flame gas valve stays open. now check the simple things 1- jump red and white wires together off the board in bottem of furnace,it it stays running check your stat as previously mentioned. 2-if burners go out and try to relight themselves soon after check the flame sensor,plastic scuff pads work good for cleaning them.dont use sand paper on them 3-if a limit or roll out switch is causing the issue it normally will not come back on and the blower motor will kick on and try to cool furnace down till you manually reset the switch. those are just a couple simple things to check,if it was a pipe sizing issue id think it would of been a problem since it was installed normally anyway []

shut off the ball valve on the house side of meter and see what your bill does! [] thats definately a wierd issue youre having []

san-tee laying on its back is a no-go around here also,s-trap is also a no-go...........

would not pass here

if the coil is bigger than the drive on the furnace your not gaining anything in my book anyway. we often oversize the coil by 1/2 ton to gain some efficiency as long as its not bigger than the drive,but i match it to the width of the furnace

any furnaces /water heater that has been underwater should be changed or so ive been told for last 30 years in the trades

we're in the middle of wiring /plumbing and mechanical on a house that sat empty for a couple years before the crackheads broke in and stripped all the copper water lines. [:-censore [:-censore [:-censore [:-censore [:-censore once the city found out they comdemmed the property which sucks cuz its still a nice solid old brick house. anyway now the new owner has to dump around $40,000.00 into renovating it to bring everything up tocurrent code since it was condemned [:-weepn]

now thats funny i dont carewho ya is! [:-bigeyes

1-double traps 2-san-tee onits side 3-90 dropping into another to through wall into another san-tee im guessing [:-crazy] Im sure the guy showing up to snake that drain would have lots of unpleasent words!

Not to argue that K&T is good, but a couple decades ago, when my father expressed concern that the K&T wiring would start a fire in his house, I went up and removed from circuit a short sample of a K&T conductor. I brought it to him and bent it in the middle, folding it back 180 degrees and then straightened it back out. The insulation didn't split or damage in any way. It looked like brand new. I suggested to him that the issue with the wiring had more to do with devices (outlets and switches) that were so old and the lack of grounding than from the quality of the insulation on the conductors themselves. This was long before becoming an inspector but after my education in electrical engineering. Marc Exactly,as long as knob and tube wiring hasnt been hacked/butchered by somebody reading a book at the hardware store thinking their an electrician I generally have no problem with it myself as a contractor.We still have many houses in the older parts of omaha with knob and tube

if you know the wattage divide by voltage to get the amperage. as long as you know 2 0f the 3 its easy to figure out the 3rd