plummen

What he said,buy a generator switch panel

I believe it means it doesn't provide over-current protection. I think it's just a disconnect. Id agree with that answer

Id say its very uncommon to see a 30a 120v circuit these days,unless its from an old window ac as stated previously

i just looked at our washing machine while in the basement. Its label says 120v 10a,would you reccomend i run it on a #14 extension cord since 125% of the nameplate rating would still only be 12.5a and #14 is rated at 15a? Or would you suggest that I run a 20a dedicated small appliance circuit from the panel to the plug to the dryer just like ive done with every one ive installed in the last 30 plus years?

Oversize conductors equal less resistance/less heat/lower voltage drop . Are you familiar with sizing wiring for 125% of the nameplate rating especially motor driven appliances?

Ive always told homeowners to drain about 5 gallons of water out through bottem drain of heater about once a month to keep crud out of bottem of tank,especially if they have bad water

S-trap,it should be against the law to sell that nasty purple primer to home owners or handymen! [:-censore

We're required to have backflow preventers on ours,no check valves

Sorry all i have is the printed version,anything specific you were looking for?

Well from what im reading about them being so readily available I figured you could rattle off the names of 5 differant supply houses that have then sitting on their shelves just waiting to be picked up! [:-monkeyd I spent the last couple days fixing a mountain of blatantly obvious electrical/plumbing code violations that a home inspection company for a mortgage company walked right by and didnt have a clue about. The most obvious thing he missed besides the green field snaked across all the basement walls and the kitchen sink plumbing all bootlegged together and the washing machine standpipe plumbed into the side of it was the stack of mis-matched brand 20a breakers feeding a bunch of 14g spaghetti inside the bootlegged service panel. [:-taped] Although i must give him credit for catching the 2 missing filler covers on front of panel where the breakers were missing. [:-monkeyd Then there was the fact that the electrical service wasnt grounded,no gfi's in the remodeled kitchen an bath room. The waste piping under remodeled bathroom was all running uphill with no venting for fixtures. All the exposed romex snaked through floor joists which is also illegal in omaha/douglas cty. So please excuse my ignorance about where to walk in and find these readily available 25a breakers ive been much to busy fighting the battle against unlicensed hack artists and licensed home inspection companys in the omaha/douglas cty area,I really wish the mortgage co would give the the name of the co that did their inspection so i could post it up here! Ive got a really good one lined up to start here in a couple weeks,ill post pictures so you can all get a good laugh! [:-monkeyd

Lots of the older 70s-80s Sears and ge heating/cooling appliances were actually made by trane . Theres only actually 3-4 real manufacturers of equipment,its mostly just labeling

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER! replace refrigerant with a flammable, explosive gas. A basic understanding of metering a gas through a restriction illustrates how dangerous this is. All of this takes place within the evaporator which is either in the house (A coil) or in the passenger compartment of the automobile (under the dash with the blower motor). As I pointed out before most of the cars that needed retrofits leaked in the first place, and the most expensive and common leak was the evaporator. With a volatile gas in an automobile this is a recipe for disaster, you are now spraying flammable gases into the passenger compartment of an automobile. Light a cigarette or sparks from the blower motor and BOOM! Have you ever read the ingredients or msds sheet for 134A for anything flammable in there? [:-monkeyd

Most 410a coils can be used with R-22 ,R-22 coils cant be used with R410-A though. Just because theyre no longer going to be manufacturing R-22 in the near future does not mean it wont be available,there is still lots of it sitting in warehouses/supply houses waiting to be sold. Just make sure if/when you ever convert the rest of the system over to 410A that you replace the metering device at the coil and have everything flushed out properly

Have they been keeping filters changed,is A-coil clean?

I agree with you guys on this one not being safe,and would not pass on new construction. Problem being that if it is actually origional equipt from when building was constructed theres not much that they can do to force it to be changed untill a permit is filed to replace it then the current codes can be brought into play. Its like gfi's and arc fault breakers if they were not required when a house was built the city cannot just make everybody install them unless the property was tagged for electrical code violations in that area or a permit was pulled and wiring was altered,if the property is condemmed then all the old rules can be tossed out the window and the city inspectors can go by current building codes around here anyway.

I'll double check today, but am positive that they should be included in the calculations. its normally a cold air return grille on both sides of door so it can be closed.In the past I would normally bring in combustion air from out doors if possible

25 amp breakers are readily available. The AC manufacturer can refuse a warranty claim if the breaker was not in the range they specified.[/quoteBy all ]means tell me where to get them and ill let all the contractors i know. In many areas the hvac guys are not allowed to touch wiring by city code ,it falls back on the electrician that does their work Once again tell me which electrical supply house has them readily available,and could you tell me what size of wire is rated for 25A?Last time i looked #10 was rated for 30a and #12 was rated for 20a,if its such an issue why hasnt the wiring industry come out with #11 wire to solve the problem? [:-slaphap[:-slaphap[:-slaphap

25 amp breakers are readily available. The AC manufacturer can refuse a warranty claim if the breaker was not in the range they specified.[/quoteBy all ]means tell me where to get them and ill let all the contractors i know. In many areas the hvac guys are not allowed to touch wiring by city code ,it falls back on the electrician that does their work

Judging from those solder joints the hammer could also be used to pinch water line in an emergency! [:-censore

Run an extra piece of pvc to split the home-runs up coming back into the panel

Inside of panel looks nice but around here all the romex on outside of panel and atleast above floor joists would need to be in pipe

yes thats a split bolt,thats a serious mismatch of materials going on there! [:-sour]

ITE/Siemens has always been pretty overated in my book. If you grab onto a siemens/ge/cuttler hammer br series/westinghouse/bryant........ stab on single pole breaker and shake it theyre all pretty unimpressive as far as fit goes. I personally have always been happiest with the fit/finish of the square d homeline panels for residential use,and their QO line for commercial/industrial projects

We normally size the breaker to the size of the wiring which in that case would be #10. Very hard to find a 25A breaker,I dont recall ever seeing such a thing being readily available in the 30 years I spent in the trades.

Thank you