plummen

Id say you guys covered it pretty well [^]

You can pick up a vacuam pump and gauges on craigs list or any of those places pretty cheap,just make sure to buy the right gauges for the 410a systems []

Sounds like its time for a new pump,have you checked tractor supply or anyplace like that?

Id rather see 1 90 after the valve ,unless the size of pipe is increased

Yes Id aim for the 70-75,000btu range 90plus furnace with a good 13 seer condensor or heat pump. warrantys tend to be generally the same between most brands in my experiance,since most of the components are only made by a few companys . The install makes the majority of the differance in how well it will work/how long it will last

We can use the thinner chrome plated traps for residential stuff but commercial requires 17g ,again in omaha anyway

Ive heard rumors of fixtures that could actually be used without a glass cover,but ive never actually seen one

Reminds me of a job I was called out to in plattsmouth ne years ago on. The local good ol boy had been out there a few times working on it before they called me. So anyway I asked them what the problem was ? They told me no airflow out of the vents when running their ac in house trailer,other guy kept charging the condensor with r-22 but it still ran the same![:-taped][:-censore So I checked the vents and found no airflow,so I walked over and checked the filter which was recently replaced and could here blower running. Something told me to throw my gauges on the unit outside,my low side gauge was almost buried but the condensor was running and outside coil didnt look bad so I went back inside and pulled the A coil and lines out far enough to get access to underside of coil. I was greeted by what could only be described as a wool blanket which proceeded to clean out and suddenly we had airflow! [:-party] well then I went back outside and checked the condensor and gauges were still buried. So I proceeded to remove what I seem to remember referring to as a chocalate foam milk shake load of freon from this poor overcharged condensor,I bet it was atleast 3-4 lbs over on this poor little unit! [:-taped] After about an hour the place actually started cooling down! Yes there are idiots among us! [:-weepn]

Yeah that guys another hack. I usually look for the tin/aluminum plated looking screws as a first sign that the plugs are actually for aluminum

On an other forum Ive been known to hang out on somebody else asked about what I personally would consider a hack job,I was wondering what you guys would think. The guys wife apparently makes/prints t-shirts in their garage and needs to hook up some sort of dryer for the ink on the shirts. Problem being the panel is on other end of garage,roughly 30' and change from location the machine is going and requires a 30a circuit. The guy doesnt have any 10g wire and has no money/desire to buy any apparently. He wants to run a chunk of 8/2 as far as he can stretch it then mount a junction box and take the 10/2 wg cord from the dryer and chop the end off and just wire nut the mess together inside the junction box. Does anybody else have an issue with this? I talked to an electrical inspector today about it,he thought it was funny and said he hopes the guy has good insurance. The inspector was in a hurry so I didnt ask him about a specific code referance,so what do you guys think about this and what referance would you give other than an obvious workmanship flag? [:-paperba

Heat rises. A hvac contractor is often limited on what can be done by the layout of the house ,and how much money a person is willing to spend to feel comfortable

Click to Enlarge 17.51 KB [:-taped] Saw this today in my travels

Well it looks like Ive been doing it wrong all these years,I had 6" beaten into my head and thats what I always stuck with. [:-paperba We had an inspector for a lot of years named Jack Grainger R.I.P that always pushed that number on me on condemed/ code violation properties. Hed want 30" of space for a toilet and 6" between fixtures,and drip legs on water heaters had to be double the o.d of the pipe from floor to bottem of pipe. Those things and san tees laying on their backs were his biggest pet peeves,I hate to think of how much existing cast iron he used to make me tear out over those san tees! [:-weepn] Of course once he got to know id never try and pull anything over on him hed just ask if I did a good job ,and give me a sticker and tell me to find a pipe to put it on without ever leaving his car because his knees were so bad [^]

Heres the phone number for jim wonder/aka god,He makes most of our wonderfull rules 402-444-5374. Ill call in the morning and get you the article number,I know Ive had more than 1 inspector throw it at me in the past

Thats been code in omaha ne books for many years anyway,omaha doesnt tend to really follow anybody elses rules though

Yeah I tell people to get an extra rod and a shower curtain also,and to open the curtain when not using the shower to keep area dried out

Call a better one? Maybe you'll have better luck if you change your name; it can't be right if it's rong? I think it might be Ron G. Just saying. [:-graduat (I used to work with a guy named Wright. My favourite remark for a while:"How could a guy named Wright be so Wrong?") To the OP: You said it was a 12 volt transformer, but you measure 27 volts? You said you installed it but then an electrician did? There may be a bad connection, but there also may be a mismatch which might burn up your light bulbs. If the transformer steps 120 volts down to 12, hooking 277 volts to the primary would give you 27 volts on the secondary. Hooking 277v to the 120v taps of a multi tap transformer would more likely take the transformer out imediately if not sooner [:-yuck]

Are you sure its not a 24v transformer you installed? I hope youre working in a commercial building with that kind of voltage for the lighting. And I guess my biggest question is why are you asking this on a home inspectors forum? [:-hspin] Almost forgot,the reason youre probably not reading any voltage on the track itself is because you only have power on the topside of bottem rail,not on the bottem of it. Of course you being an electrician would know that right?

Thats the way Ive normally seen it done also

Volt and ampmeter, I'm guessing. Marc If the tank is full of water how do you check for a bad element? Water will complete circuit on a continuity test,not to mention the elements could also just be covered in crud

So how did he check the elements without draining the tank?

Did he actually drain the water out of the tank when he checked them?

Probably all the water leaking past the red rtv hes got slopped all over the joints on the single wall fittings! [:-yuck]

Id say in the next room would be aq good safe distance myself,how did this end up in the electrical forum anyway?

The wire is not protected where it exits the wall to say the least,severe lack of workmanship there [:-yuck]