Bruce Thomas
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Everything posted by Bruce Thomas
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Hold on a second Guys, Jim, Did you mean a splice with wire nuts then protected with tape? Or just tape? Bruce
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Terry, I have homes in my neighborhood that have copper clad aluminum. It is sometimes difficult to spot. One sign is that the outside sheath is a different color than the normal romex of the time. The problem comes in when the connector screws are tightened to the wire. In some cases (not always) the copper cladding is cut and the aluminum is in contact with the screw that was not designed for aluminum use. Then the same thing happens that would if the copper was never there. Corrosion and over heat. We have had no fires that I know of (Iââ¬â¢m a volunteer fireman) caused by this wire but I wouldnââ¬â¢t risk my family on it and I wouldnââ¬â¢t ask anyone else to either. The reason it came about is because of the copper prices of that era. The manufacturers were trying to provide a product that was as good at a lower price. It didnââ¬â¢t work out as planned. To answer your question, I treat it just the same as aluminum branch circuits. Write it up just like Mike said. Hope that helps Bruce
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Crusty, Back in the 70's my parents had formaldyhide foam insulation pumped in to their walls because they didn't have insulation. (it was the greatest thing since sliced bread THEN) Right after that the paint came off of the redwood siding in sheets. Moisture was defeating the bond. Getting back to crawl spaces. I guess I'm hearing "make provision for the moisture or else damage will occure" just like in every other situation. In the north venting is ok if they are closed in the winter and the vapor barrier is in tact. I still like the sealed conditioned space approach but how can you write up a crawl that was built to yester year's standards. It's like the 150 year old log home I inspected with hand cut 4 by something rafters spaced however. If a buillder did that today I would write pages but how can you argue with 150 years of life. If it's dry and in good condition say so? If not write it up. Thanks for all of your input, Bruce Fixed a couple of typos
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Crusty, More about the Arkansas project please. Bruce
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Mike & Jim, I havenââ¬â¢t mentioned it before but until just a few months ago I was a radon mitigator as well as a home inspector. So to those who may not be familiar, one method (if thereââ¬â¢s a crawl space) is to seal 6 mil. poly to the walls and vacuum the air from under it. That also eliminates 99% of the issues as well as removing the soil gas. Sometimes I would add venting for radon reduction purposes. Another method is to pressurize a crawl space by blowing air in with a fan that runs continuously. Thankfully that isnââ¬â¢t used very often but I can see that method doing damage unwittingly. Iââ¬â¢m going the have to rethink my crawl space inspection it seems. It may be difficult to get it across to the sellers that they have a crawl space problem because ââ¬Åitââ¬â¢s been fine for yearsââ¬
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I was at a recent seminar that had a very good presentation about crawl spaces. The presenter stated that crawl spaces should not be ventilated. It should have a sealed vapor barrier but should not be ventilated. The reason given is that it allows humid air to enter and condense and it doesnââ¬â¢t dry properly. This goes agenst everything that I was ever taught. I just thought I would get some opinions from a few southern boys since we donââ¬â¢t have a whole lot of crawl spaces up here. Thanks Bruce [?]
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Steve, I agree with Scott, that's how I would handel it too. Bruce
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OK so I was hoping that someone else would ask this so I wouldn't have to look dumb. Would someone define what "back plastering" is and how it's installed. Please Bruce Never mind
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I'm similar only I wrote my own MS Word template. I use a lap top on site. I could print at the end of the inspection, but I like to take my time and edit the report in the "quite" of my office, then add the pictures and print them in color. It has worked well for us. Bruce
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Terry, A couple of thoughts. The back drafting water heater is a good one. How about poor or lack of attic ventilation. I've seen water dripping from light switches and the cause was that some one stuffed the vents with insulation. Another slim possibility is that the excess moisture from keeping the house closed has not dried out yet but that "should" be gone after 6 months. Bruce
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Kevin, Buy another camera, it's cheaper and easier in the long run. (get a better on than she has) Attic fires can get tricky you may have to get very in depth. Suggest a "Qualified contractor or structural engineer reevaluate the roof and structure for potential degraded structural members" Bruce
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Kevin, Now you are an inspector. I can't go to a friends house without something catching my eye. It's a disease that no pill will cure. Then again why would you want to cure it. Bruce[^]
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Chad, Scion just came to the states in April. I got it because it was cheep, it holds all of my stuff and it's comfortable enough. You either like the body style or you don't but you have to admit it's eye catching. I've had a ton of people walk up to me and ask me about it. In this business some times it's nice to be noticed. Bruce
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Some times when I read these posts I say to myself, why didn't I know that. I guess that's why I still read them. Thanks Jim!! Bruce
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It sure looks like charcoal to me. The gator skin gives it away. It's skip sheathing for shakes or slate. The attic fire didn't burn long enough to get into the rafters as deeply as the sheathing. Rob is right you have to scrape it to be sure. In any case add ventelation to reduce the mold. Bruce
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This is my inspector mobile It's a 2005 Scion xB a Toyota spin off company. It was 15K +++ total 17 +/- It gets great gas milage and it catches your eye. Note assitant inspector in the last picture lower right. Download Attachment: Scion front.jpg 21.41 KB Download Attachment: Scion left side.jpg 26.84 KB Download Attachment: Scion rear.jpg 43.36 KB
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I've never seen one of these, we don't have them around here. It look to me like a leaking condensate catch pan. I'd strongly suggest that it be evaluated by an HVAC tech.
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Gas Logs: Light 'Em or Not?
Bruce Thomas replied to Brian G's topic in Fireplaces, Chimneys & Wood Burning Appliances
I have lost my eye brows but they grew back. I carry one of those long grill lighters they ony cost about 2 bucks. I also explain about the ventless logs, like you shold have a window open when lite. A CO detector in the room is also a must. If they are in good shape and I don't have trouble lighting them they make a good presentation. But Scott is right we don't have to light them and they can cause problems if you aren't careful. Your judgment I guess. Bruce [:-eyebrow -
Jim, I almost forgot, i'm old enough to remember the Doors Bruce
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Jim, OK here goes, Moisture provided that the temperature is different from the material that is wet. Hot wires in the walls. I guess the third is termites. Iââ¬â¢ve seen moisture above soffit, behind fascia, on the roof deck in the attic, along the sill plate, at the band joist, just about any place that you donââ¬â¢t want it. Once you suspect moisture then you can prove it and find the source using IR or conventional means. . Main plumbing stacks in the wall just as a locator. Hot wires in a wall shine like a light bulb. If they are hot they are probably over loaded. Now find out why. I donââ¬â¢t know how extensive your termite infestations are in Mass. But Iââ¬â¢ve paid for a few here in PA and I donââ¬â¢t want to pay for any more. Termites bring in moisture because they need almost 100% humidity to survive. With IR it shows up as a dark blob some times with branches. Once you suspect an infestation you can use the acoustic equipment that comes with the system to hear them or probe. If you probe you had better be right or you will be fixing the wall. To answer the end of your question you donââ¬â¢t ââ¬ÅNEEDââ¬
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Chris, AZ is still open as far as I know. you can call the same number above and talk to Margaret to confirm. It sound to me like you have the right mind set to successfully add the system to your tool bag. If you want too you could also market the state. Bruce
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Scott, Call over and ask 866-327-7233. Talk to either Kevin or Margaret. They wil know what the schedule is. And by the way they pay a royalty to Ol Miss from what I understand so your tax dollars are being paid back for more great stuff to be develpoed. Bruce
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Scott, Beginning from the beginning. The cost is justified by increased work, we did raise our prices just a bit but we are still very much in line with everyone else. I looked at the XRF too. In PA we would have to have a radioactive materials licenses to have one. At $700 per year for the license and the paper work and initial cost and the fact that my office is in my home with my kids my wife and I decided not to go that route because they didnââ¬â¢t need the radiation exposure. (Iââ¬â¢m a former Nuclear power plant worker so I didnââ¬â¢t either). I'm happy that I didn't because it turned out there was no market here after all. As I mentioned in my first post our business is up 40% over the same period last year. I didn't know that we would have that kind of increase but it was an educated business decision. We took a risk just like every other businessperson does. This one is paying off. You only have to be right 51% of the time. The example of the air duct is a good one. I've seen that too. In the course we were trained to also use a moisture meter to confirm suspected moisture. You will always have inexperienced mistakes. I still make them, hopefully just not as may as I did my first year. I have paid for repairs to main drains and plumbing leaks above ceilings etc. etc. With this system I now have an indication that there is something that needs more investigation. If that is disclosed to the buyer you have done your job even if you aren't 100% sure what is going on behind there. Let the tradesman figure it out for them and do his job. I also mentioned that we promote it as a tool and that nothing is perfect especially the house that they are buying. The bottom line is read everything that you can find on your profession, go to every seminar that's practical, concentrate and stay focused while you are doing your inspection and use the best equipment available. From your posts I think that you will agree with this paragraph. All I know is that I feel that Iââ¬â¢m doing a much better job and my clients are impressed enough to refer their friends to us. The buyââ¬â¢s agents are referring us too. I guess that the last bottom line is that itââ¬â¢s a business decision that at this point Iââ¬â¢m very happy that we made. Bruce ASHI # 203847
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I would like to straighten out several misconceptions about thermal imaging scanners or infrared scanners which ever you would like. First of all itââ¬â¢s a tool and like any tool either training or trial and error teaches you how to use it. I use the HomeSafe system. They wouldnââ¬â¢t let me have the system unless I took their week long course taught by the inventor who has a masters degree in electrical engineering. You also have to have passed the National Home inspectorââ¬â¢s Exam, thatââ¬â¢s the ASHI exam. Since Iââ¬â¢ve been an inspector since 1989 and an ASHI member for quite some time I didnââ¬â¢t have the take the other required training. If I hadnââ¬â¢t I would have had to take another week and pass the Exam. My point is they arenââ¬â¢t just handing this stuff out and taking your money. They are very interested in the quality of the end product and are in it for the long haul. You canââ¬â¢t substitute any tool or equipment for experience and training. They are not trying to do that. Most of you use CO or multi gas detectors. Several years ago they were unnecessary over priced voodoo. Our sales are up 40% over the same period last year for the time that we have been using the equipment. That justifies the expense. We tell everyone that ââ¬Åitââ¬â¢s a toolââ¬
