randynavarro

Other than re-building, is there an altermate method for arresting the spalling? Click to Enlarge 74.74 KB

What does that mean?

Well, that's no so whacky, Jim. I thought about spiders, but I really don't know much about them.

I didn't whack it for 2 reasons: 1) Clearance at this corner was only about 10". The photo was achieved by sticking my hand under a girder which was about 18" away from that corner and blocked any kind of physical access. I had to also use a bit of zoom. 2) As a 203k renovation inspection, my focus is quite different from an ordinary inspection. The goal is to simply I.D. defects and have them corrected instead of compiling informatoin for them to make an "informed" decision. I outlined two options for the borrower: a) remove and replace all inadequate and damaged wood framing (probably about 80% of what's down there) or b) rip out the framing and concrete, fill and compact with gravel and pour new concrete. Here are some more photos, Jim, if you want to take a stab at it. . . Click to Enlarge 67.32 KB Click to Enlarge 76.1 KB Click to Enlarge 90.03 KB I imagine if I probed, the wood would not necessarily crumble but easily separate. I don't suspect powdery stuff either.

Yea. Blasted Katen. . .

Yes, dampwood term's was my gut. But, I agree with you, Richard, that clinging frass is interesting. I guess there's a possiblity there were some sub-termites and their tubes from soil to wood have since fallen, but I truly can't recall ever seeing a full-on soil-to-floor termite tube. Regardless, as in most finds like this, the type of insect is almost secondary. Getting all the bad wood out of there, period, is my primary recommendation.

Every year. . . same story. Should I or shouldn't I. I, too, am interested in peeking at Katen's list. My list is: 1) Forum - While not as strong as TIJ, I think it's helpful. Hansen still taps in there every now and then. That's good. I've not experienced the vitriole to which other people refer. 2) I'm too lazy to remove all the ASHI logos off letterheads, templates, van, etc..

Yes That's what I thought. However, the concrete above showed no signs of cracking or movement!

Note the skin color on the feet. Those feet are not pigment-challenged. My skin, however, is. Although I am of Mexican descent, I'm almost as caucasion-airy as the next guy. This inspection was for a 203(k) refinance renovation. Those feet are the homeowner's. In fact, I wouldn't have known or seen that hatch if he hadn't told me about it.

I've never come across a crawl space under a basement slab. This home was built around 1910. There was "newer" concrete in the basement but so much storage I really couldn't see how well the concrete was doing. In one quadrant, the soil had been excavated and a subfloor system had been almost conventionally framed. Then concrete was poured on top of the wood frame system. The crawl space is not original to the house. The wood framing looks 1950 to 1970-ish. Here's the hatch cover. Click to Enlarge 44.87 KB Here's how the floor framing system was anchored to the adjacent concrete in the rest of the basement. Click to Enlarge 56.28 KB Here are the bugs that have chewed the wood plank flooring supporting the concrete. I'm thinking dampwood termites? Click to Enlarge 62.88 KB Anybody ever seen something like this? Why was it done?

$399 is a decent plane ride somewhere warm this winter. I think we should start a list of all the things that ASHI dues would pay for that are worthwhile.......we got us a rod & reel, a plane ride......... A set of mold inspection books and/or DVD's from Professional Equipment?

Scott, depending on your light usage, those CFL's could actually make quite a dent in your power bill.

It's a funny thing--peoples' expectations. People want to know about the big expensive stuff and at the same time care about the seemingly little stuff, i.e. do the kitchen drawers open and close? Does the door latch? Does the microwave work? All stuff that doesn't require the least bit of expertise to evaluate. But. . . I try and comply as much as possible to avoid complaints later. I'll check all the drawers and the simple stuff 'cuz it's what people expect. . . I think.

Thank you kind sirs. I think I've got it now.

Understood. But is says it needs to run 3" above finished thresholds. How is that possible? If the threshold stops, the liner needs to run 3" higher. . . ?

I'm trying to visualize the code requirements for a shower receptor- specifically a mortar and tile shower pan. P2709.1 "Shower receptors shall have a finished curb threshold not less than 1" below the sides and back of the receptor" I can't picture what that looks like. Next: "The curb shall be not less than 2" and not more than 9" deep when measured from the top of the curb to the top of the drain." Does this mean the curb has to be at least 2" taller than the top of the drain? Then in P2709.2 it says: "The lining material shall extend not less than 3" beyond or around the rough jambs and not less than 3" above finished thresholds. To me, this contradicts the previous cite: this says the threshold should be at least 3" higher? I've got a shower curb that is only about 1/2" higher than the tiled shower floor and about 3 1/2" above the bathroom floor. I'm trying to figure if it's right or wrong. Click to Enlarge 34.12 KB Click to Enlarge 29.86 KB

Yes. Good points. I'm very clean and respectful at jobsites. As I mentioned, this panel was buried in the corner and the bed was blocking the panel. I was able to wedge my leg in between the bed and wall and keep one leg outboard sort of stradling the corner of the room -- it's hard to describe. Anyway, once I was wedged, I was there. The panel was brand new and clean I didn't have a problem tossing that cover on the bed. That kid, though, was totally buried under the blanket and I had no idea he was there! If I had tossed it just a few inches further, I would have had a crying critter on my hands.

While inspecting an electrical panel in a four-plex today, I removed the dead front cover from the panel--the panel was buried in the corner of the bedroom and the bed blocked full access--and kind of sort of dropped/threw the cover on the bed behind me. While turning back to the panel to investigate its innerds, I sensed movement on the bed behind me. Here is what I found. Click to Enlarge 60.41 KB We became good friends.

In the Northwest, Hardie is most popular. Certainteed is around here but not nearly as common. Because of familiarity, I'd go with Hardie.

It'd be interesting to keep track of your gas bills to see if the unit will really save any money.

Sound personal, Chad. Are you taking enough fiber?

Oops. Yea, I left it behind. I was troubleshooting connections, diagnosing circuits, teting ground resistance etc. Not. Elecrical inspection on this one was the time it took to walk in to that room, take some pics and walk out. Done. From a technical standpoint, there's actually more egregious violations than the ones in those pics. Those pics just happend to be the gnarliest visually.

. . . for having to look at this stuff today. If it wasn't so dangerous it'd be humorous. The power was disconnected at the property. Click to Enlarge 42.12 KB Click to Enlarge 49.39 KB Click to Enlarge 63.02 KB Click to Enlarge 53.63 KB

Yes.

The furnace was set on top of a pre-cast fiberglass base and the liner was sealed to that base. Click to Enlarge 32.57 KB The water heater was sitting on top of spray foam--I guess it was just as cheap to do that rather than buy a piece of 2" EPS. Click to Enlarge 39.94 KB I can only guess at the history--lots of rats and water. In fact, there was some sort of proprieatry sump/drainage system involved with the system. Click to Enlarge 22.18 KB