randynavarro

Somewhere behind the commercial gas range. . . I have no clue what would happen if one were to throw the breaker. And by the way, the solutions for using the existing circuit make perfect sense. And I've seen it many times before. I hope others have experienced the mental relapse I've exhibited in this thread. Every once in a while you come across something that you've seen countless times, but for whatever reason, just can't pull the right files in the brain to process it. Am I alone?

Perhaps you're bothered by the fact that a 50-amp breaker is protected a single 15-amp receptacle? Yup. Yup again. So a solution would be to install a 15 or 20 amp breaker? But then the trouble is the breake terminal probably won't accept that large of cable. . . . Any other ideas on how to upgrade without running a whole new cable?

If a guy converts from an electric range to a gas unit and uses one leg of the existing 240 circuit to supply the new gas range (120v), is it acceptable? I see this from time to time but today's conversion struck me as strange for some reason. Something about a large #8 feeder supplying a 15 or 20 amp outlet and only one leg of teh circuit being hot and the other leg being dead. Maybe I'm just confused altogether. . . ! Click to Enlarge 72.43 KB

Feliz Cumpleanos Marc!

I'm fixing to get new phone service, internet, etc.. Specifically I'm looking at the Ooma Telo box (VoIP) from Costco for my phone and fax. I'm concerned about dropped calls, voice quality, etc. if I switch to VoIP. Anybody have success stories? Horror stories? Things I need to aware of when switching and using VoIP?

Northwest Mechanical did an ASHI seminar about 2 1/2 years ago and it was at that exact time that Northwest was just starting to investigate supposed troubles with Kitec; mostly in the Issaquah Highlands, I believe. They'll be able to do you well. I had Kitec tubing on the in-floor heating on my last house. No problems; however, after I learned about the issue, I had a heat exchanger installed to separate the potable from the heatin water and minimize oxygen intrusion. Since that seminar, I haven't heard a thing since. . .

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This was a tunnel dug from one crawl space to another. I didn't feel like burrowing today what with the drama in Chile and the collapsed mine and all. Would you have done it? Click to Enlarge 41.55 KB

The best flashing for tree trunk-thru-roof joints is made from tire inner tubes. They're available for many diameters - from lawn tractor to earth mover tires. I've seen/heard that, Bill. Is this from personal experience?

Major thread drift but those photos got me. . . . I'm trying to figure how to seal the tree penetration through the roof of the tree house I'm building. Kurt, can you remember the details--is that just a bunch of goop sealing the roof deck to the trunk? Did they allow room for growth of the trunk and if so, how much?

I believe assisted suicide is also. . .

Title of this post: flat roof leak Randy's first response: yes, it do. always.

Yeesh. Are those first two pics of the roof deck from above? How'd it get ripped apart?

I say poo with tentacles.

I'm not suggesting anything, so don't get worked up. But . . . have the Docs performed a blood test lately to make certain your Lithium dose is where it needs to be? I like Jim's style. Very critical to minute details, hits the nail right on the head, without being rude or caustic. It elevates the performance of the forum. Just MHO. Marc You can always trust Mr. Katen to bring this forum to a new level of grapeness by raisin awareness of currant affairs. Brilliant. Absolutely brilliant.

I'll second SugarSync. Works very well. Whatever I do on my Desk automatically goes on my Laptop and vice versa.

I haven't been on TIJ for a while and when I come back, I find Katen posting a report for critique! Wow. Reminds me of an Executive Pastor taking notes every Sunday during the Senior Pastor's sermon. He's one of the few in the crowd doing so. A model of humility and an example of how to always be doing better. . .

Repetetive motion troubles for me are appearing in three areas: 1) the knee that I would kneel on to get at low stuff--problem was solved with a high quality knee pad. 2) Using a mouse while on the computer. I've always used a trackball, but I've just recently switched to a thumb-control trackball mouse and that seems to be helping considerably. 3) Upper back and lower neck: I believe from being in crawl spaces on my belly and looking up while on my belly rather that laying more on my side and looking straight.

In many 50's era homes in the Seattle area, it's common to find a three-wire circuit to the metal j-box and a two-slot receptacle installed. The cable is typically 12 or 14 gage conductors with a small, maybe 16 or 18 gage grounding conductor where the grounding conductor bonds/grounds the metal box only. Is it acceptable to upgrade with a three-slot grounding type receptacle and just jumper off the metal box to the grounding terminal on the receptacle?

Xtend and Climb for probably 6 years now. No complaints. I trust it.

When starting up about 12 years ago, I wanted to get my radon testing "certification." I called, I think, the EPA to enquire about the process. The gentleman said don't waste my time. There is a .00-something chance of radon occurence west of the mountains in our state. I've never pursued or paid attention to radon since. . .

I don't notice changes; however, other than asking how folks got my name and number, I don't really track why or how folks came to choosing me over others.

Curious. What guides you in making such choices. HUD should at least offer guidelines as to what needs to be fixed and what can slide. Marc Well, this directive seriously lowered the bar in 2005. Other than this list, there's only a handful of other general guidelines and criteria, many of which are open for interpretation. It'd sure be easy to have a clear list, but as I've mentioned, how do you make a list for the hundreds of conditions that are present in homes. Click to Enlarge 60.68 KB

Bad guess. Good try, though. It's a 203k renovation loan. I have to ID things and call for their repair or replacement. It's not as easy as it might seem. As you all know, there can be dozens of items in a single home that need attention in some form or fashion. In a 203k project, the challenge is figuring which things require attention. Even HUD/FHA themselves don't require all things to be repaired or replaced that otherwise would be detailed and recommended be repaired in an ordinary inspection report. In this case, the chimney was just bad enough, IMO, and ugly enough to need some sort of work. I rarely call for chimney repairs in rehabs unless they're directly affecting the operation of gas appliances or about to fall down. One could also make the argument that the chimney will do just fine. How long will it take for that chimney to actually start falling down? Another 10-20 years? It could go either way. . .

It's 40 years old and there's not really a budget to fix it the right way. I'll make a recommendation for stripping of paint and parging with some latex modified mortar.