PEX Question

[DonTx]

I normally see plumbers come off of shower controls and then connect the PEX lines. This plumber connected the PEX lines directly to the shower control.

Anything wrong with this setup?

thanks,

Download Attachment: PEXShower.jpg

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[Richard Moore]

Donald...are my eyes deceiving me, or are those PEX lines being crimped by the nail-stops? Connecting directly to the valve should be OK assuming the fittings are designed for PEX, but the REST of the set-up looks screwy! Doesn't the valve need some support directly behind?

[chrisprickett]

Ther should be clamps or straps installed. See bullet point #3 under "General Recommendations"

Download Attachment: Pex Installation.pdf

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[Scottpat]

If the PEX is in contact with the nail guard, like it looks in the photo this will be a problem. PEX moves as the water is turned on and off at the fixture. If it is in contact with the nail guard the owners should expect a leak shortly after moving in.

[monte]

I agree with Richard about no value support.

Cris: The way I see the installation, the holes in the studs are acting as a strap. The maximun horizontal spacing for pipe support for PB, PE-AL-PE, PEX, PEX-AL-PEX is 32"

[chrisprickett]

Originally posted by monte

I agree with Richard about no value support.

Cris: The way I see the installation, the holes in the studs are acting as a strap. The maximun horizontal spacing for pipe support for PB, PE-AL-PE, PEX, PEX-AL-PEX is 32"

Holes in the studs are not clamps or straps.

[monte]

Chris;

Like they say " You have express your opinion and I have express mine". After reading again the General Recommendation - Comment #3 "Use clamps or straps at tubing bends directly from connections", reading the Instruction Guide page 7 (At your PEX site) and looking at the photo again My opinion remains the same. "The holes in the studs are acting as a strap"

[chrisprickett]

Originally posted by monte

"The holes in the studs are acting as a strap"

Sometimes my kid "acts" like a monkey. Doesn't make him a monkey. I may sound like I'm splitting hairs, but when you deal with weasel builders who look for any reason to do crappy work, I need to hang my hat on specific installation instructions.

The moisture barrier is "acting" like window flashing.

The single stud is "acting' like a post.

The plastic j-box is "acting" like a fan box.

The duct tape on the flexible duct splice is "acting" like an approved method of splice connection.

The box nail in the joist hanger is "acting" like an approved fastener.

The idiot is "acting" like a competent superintendent.

[monte]

I understand where you are coming from. Have had the same problems in the past with builders and I am sure I will experience it again in the future. Thank you

[DonTx]

I got to go with Chris on this one. If the bored hole was a fraction larger than the PEX line, I might buy it. However, the plumbers use a 5/8ths to 3/4" bit to bore the holes in the studs. These leaves the PEX plenty of room to hammer. I'm seeing more and more bathrooms where you get a nice "thump" when you turn the water on/off. Almost every time it's due to the lack of clamps on the lines.

I run into the same thing with electricians. The install the Service Panel indoors, the top plate is bored/sawzall'd out and the Romex is ran through the resulting hole then laid across the joist. They consider this securing the Romex properly.

By the way, FWIW, I wrote the valve up for not being secured to blocking and failing to secure the PEX line properly at the studs.

I also stated that the Builder and Plumber should verify with written documentation from the valve manufacturer that the the fitting on the valve body were approved for PEX lines. I guess they decided it would be easier to come off the valve body with copper lines after all.

Thanks everyone,

[monte]

Donald, I do not mine, for you saw the whole PEX setup. I should have asked if the downward bend was fasten to a stud, but I figure it was because of your experience and you not asking in your question. End of subject for me.