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PEX Question


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Like they say " You have express your opinion and I have express mine". After reading again the General Recommendation - Comment #3 "Use clamps or straps at tubing bends directly from connections", reading the Instruction Guide page 7 (At your PEX site) and looking at the photo again My opinion remains the same. "The holes in the studs are acting as a strap"

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Originally posted by monte

"The holes in the studs are acting as a strap"

Sometimes my kid "acts" like a monkey. Doesn't make him a monkey. I may sound like I'm splitting hairs, but when you deal with weasel builders who look for any reason to do crappy work, I need to hang my hat on specific installation instructions.

The moisture barrier is "acting" like window flashing.

The single stud is "acting' like a post.

The plastic j-box is "acting" like a fan box.

The duct tape on the flexible duct splice is "acting" like an approved method of splice connection.

The box nail in the joist hanger is "acting" like an approved fastener.

The idiot is "acting" like a competent superintendent.

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I got to go with Chris on this one. If the bored hole was a fraction larger than the PEX line, I might buy it. However, the plumbers use a 5/8ths to 3/4" bit to bore the holes in the studs. These leaves the PEX plenty of room to hammer. I'm seeing more and more bathrooms where you get a nice "thump" when you turn the water on/off. Almost every time it's due to the lack of clamps on the lines.

I run into the same thing with electricians. The install the Service Panel indoors, the top plate is bored/sawzall'd out and the Romex is ran through the resulting hole then laid across the joist. They consider this securing the Romex properly.

By the way, FWIW, I wrote the valve up for not being secured to blocking and failing to secure the PEX line properly at the studs.

I also stated that the Builder and Plumber should verify with written documentation from the valve manufacturer that the the fitting on the valve body were approved for PEX lines. I guess they decided it would be easier to come off the valve body with copper lines after all.

Thanks everyone,

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