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Two things come to mind here.

1. Shouldn't that motor be supported by something other than the PVC pipe? (this seems like a gimme, but there is a possibility of me being wrong, I don't usually get a lot of softballs!)

2. Does the motor and tank need to be bonded or does the copper line from the pump to the pressure tank take care of that (the plumbing to the home was PVC)?


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It's the ugliest install I've ever seen. They went to all the trouble of running electric out to the well casing and didn't drop a submersible pump down. The pressure tank should really be inside the house to minimize frictional losses.

The pump will eventually fatigue the piping and break off.

How are they going to change the foot valve with the drop tube mortared in place.

Ideally the water line should enter the side of the casing below ground to a pitless adapter and a nice submersible should hang (w/ a torque strap) from the adaptor.

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It's hard to tell if it's a jet pump..on my screen I can only see one line on the intake manifold, I can't see it clearly, but it doesn't look like a jet pump

The casing looks like four inch, a submersible would fit, but given the fact that everything's in place it's a moot issue.

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Thanks guys,

I've done wrote the motor mounting up and the lack of a weather cover. Now I'm still a little fuzzy on the wiring. Wouldn't this unit be grounded by the wire running back to the SP? or should it all be bonded like swimming pool equipment?


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Hi Don:

Found this while surfing:

When people are tripped up by the requirements for grounding, it's often because they don't realize Art. 250 covers both grounding and bonding. An unfamiliarity with the fundamental differences between the terms bonded, grounded, and effectively grounded makes the situation even worse. Not knowing these definitions makes proper application impossible.

How do grounding and bonding differ? When you bond something, you're permanently joining metallic parts to form an electrically conductive path that can safely conduct any fault current likely to be imposed. Proper bonding creates an effective, low-impedance, ground-fault current path for the purpose of removing dangerous voltage from a ground fault by quickly opening the related overcurrent protection device (OCPD).

When you ground metal parts of electrical equipment you're intentionally connecting the equipment to earth. Failure to properly do so could result in high voltage on metal parts if lightning enters the structure. Lightning doesn't necessarily strike only grounded items when seeking a path to the earth. If the metal parts aren't effectively grounded, much of the high energy from the lightning strike will dissipate into the structure, which can result in electric shock or fires inside the premises.

Sometimes metal parts should be grounded to earth to help prevent the build-up of high-voltage static charges where the discharge (arcing) could cause failure of electronic equipment or a fire and explosion in a hazardous classified area.

System grounding is the intentional connection of one terminal of the power supply to earth for the purpose of stabilizing the system line-to-ground voltage during normal operations. According to IEEE-142 (Green Book), “arcing, restriking, or vibrating ground faults on ungrounded systems can (under certain conditions) produce surge voltages as high as six times normal.â€

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