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Code cite anyone?


Brandon Whitmore
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I think that Brandon might be referring to the distance from the vent to the conductors at the masthead. From the rust on that masthead, it sure looks like things get pretty hot up there.

I can't find any reference to it in my guide from Puget Sound Energy.

Was the insulation on those cables or the insulator at the masthead being affected, Brandon?

ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!!

Mike

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I think that Brandon might be referring to the distance from the vent to the conductors at the masthead. From the rust on that masthead, it sure looks like things get pretty hot up there.

I can't find any reference to it in my guide from Puget Sound Energy.

Was the insulation on those cables or the insulator at the masthead being affected, Brandon?

I can't imagine that the rust is related to heat from the vent. It *might* be related to smoke from the vent. In that case, I'd just scrape, prime, & paint the mast.

- Jim in Oregon

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I think that Brandon might be referring to the distance from the vent to the conductors at the masthead.

That's it.

I didn't want to go too far into this one with my original post. I was curious what you all would say.

The 3-2-10 rule has been met.

I have a slight concern with heat coming out of the chimney during normal operation. My BIG concern would be a flue fire at the top of the chimney. I doubt that the wire would get hot enough, long enough to fail, but the insulation inside and just outside of the mast could fail in my opinion.

There was no longer a woodstove installed. The owners (rental) installed a new gas water heater beneath this area. They ran the B vent from the water heater up to the ceiling where they just connected it into the existing chimney pipe.

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Was the insulation on those cables or the insulator at the masthead being affected, Brandon?

Maybe, the insulation was cracked and deteriorated, but it just looked like old insulation to me. If there was still a woodstove attached, I would have written it up whether or not I had a reference.

It *might* be related to smoke from the vent. In that case, I'd just scrape, prime, & paint the mast.

If I was a betting man, I'd bet the smoke had something to do with it. This house was built in the '50s. I can't recall ever seeing a house this newish that had a mast this heavily rusted.

Or maybe use the shorter, newer mast. What's with that? Non-completed service upgrade?

I thought that was weird as well. It looks like they just stuck that second mast in there to take the weight off of the tall skinny existing one. When I drove up, I expected to see the original skinny guy to be bent, but this was not the case.

The original fuse box is still in use on this one, with a Bulldog Pushmatic installed next to it for a few add on circuits.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Brandon, from all reports you are doing an excellent job but you really do think waaaaaaaay to hard. Take your first impression - how long has it been there, has it caused damage, was it acceptable when installed? Think about all the old homes in downtown Portland with 2x4 roof supports with a 20+ span - they haven't collapsed yet after 90 years and some have 3 or 4 layers (sag yes, broken rafters no). REcommend knee walls and leave it alone.

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  • 4 months later...

When I installed a woodstove in my house, the building inspector went by the woodstove and chimney manufacturer's specifications and installation instructions. So *that* was the code. And clearances change by type and model, so I guess that is the best thing to go by.

Here is a big manufacturer of chimneys...

(Tons of documentation)

http://www.selkirkcorp.com

Then the electric company has "Electric Service Requirements" which would cover clearances. Here is that for Pacific Power (as an example)...

http://www.pacificpower.net/con/esr.html

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  • 11 months later...

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