Jump to content

Jim Katen

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Jim Katen

  1. That's not exactly correct. It says that "habitable rooms" shall have an aggregate glazing area of not less than 8 percent of the "floor area" of such rooms. That floor area might cover portions of the room that don't contribute to the habitable space of the room. The requirement applies to the "floor area" not the "floor area of the habitable portion of the room." To my eye, it's clearly talking about the gross floor area of the room. So for both your questions, the floor area for lighting and ventilation would be the same as the floor area for, say, carpeting. That said, different jurisdictions might interpret this differently. If it's a critical issue, call the local building department and ask.
  2. Yes, exactly. They read as if they've been fed back & forth through a translation program. "Ramona's" IP address is in Delhi. Perhaps someone in India is testing a new AI home inspector.
  3. Also, there's something seriously wrong with this statement. Why are they digging out the center after having placed the perimeter?
  4. Why not just hire a stump grinder to grind out the bulk of the stumps? Then you can clean up whatever remains with a little baby excavator.
  5. Sorry, I don't know of such a resource. Have you asked a friendly heating tech to just cut out the split section and braze in a new piece of copper?
  6. So, with the NHIE, it helps to keep in mind that every question should have one undeniably correct answer and three distractors. The undeniably correct answer might not be a term or concept that you would use, but it will have at lease one reference source to back it up - that's almost always the building code or an industry guideline or best-practice guide. The distractors are designed to sound plausible to those who lack the knowledge that the question is designed to test. Your best strategy for taking this test is to forget about what *you* would call this wall, but choose the answer that seems to be the "most" correct. In this question, you can rule out structural masonry right away because all you can see are stretchers, no headers. While it's conceivable that a structural masonry wall *might* be built like this, it's very unlikely. The second choice, "adhered brick" is a possibility, but it's less likely than the next one, "anchored masonry," which is by far the most likely candidate. I have no idea what "supported brick" is supposed to be. I suspect its something that the question writer just made up. Bottom line: I think it's a fair question. Someone who really knows brick will have no trouble getting the right answer. Someone who doesn't might not get it.
  7. I'll bet a dollar that it's LP. Do you have other pictures of it?
  8. Then I suggest showing up in person early in the morning.
  9. For the first 15 years or so, caulk was, indeed, to be used in lieu of flashing. A clean, tight butt joint always looks better than a caulked one - even before the caulk failure sets in. You do realize that the siding in your picture is not a Hardie product, right?
  10. Why not call your local building department and ask?
  11. Because it never works well. Things expand and contract, the caulk fails, and water gets behind the siding.
  12. Don't the termites just build tubes around the metal?
  13. Hell no. Termites will chew through that plastic like a puppy chewing through a new carpet. Does anything work as a termite barrier in your area? Around here, they just go around whatever barrier we put up.
  14. By going to a truss manufacturer, you get your engineering - essentially - for free. This is what those guys do, every day, all day.
  15. Take your desired design to a truss manufacturer and ask their designer to fix you up with a scissor truss package.
  16. If you're doing a frost-protected footing that's 4'-8' deep, why not just build a basement while you're at it? It would be the cheapest square footage in the house.
  17. I really don't know. In fact, I'd forgotten about this discussion. Now I'll have to go back to the auto store, find those lamps and start messing with them again.
  18. Thanks for the clarification, Mike. Yes, a 120v/240v circuit is, by definition, a multiwire circuit as well. So that slightly simplifies the answer to Johnny-A's question. The difference between a MWC and a 240-volt circuit is that one will have a neutral and one won't. (Well, that and the circuit sizes.)
  19. I see a 3-d printer in their future . . .
  20. Good question. You can't always tell. It's just a guess. In most cases, however, a regular 240-volt circuit won't require a neutral and the installer won't waste money installing a cable with an unnecessary neutral wire. So most 240-volt circuits will re-identify the white wire and use it as one of the "hot" wires. They could be 120v/240v circuits - where an appliance uses both voltages. Those would be indistinguishable from a multi-wire circuit when viewed from the panel. However, there aren't too many 15-amp or 20-amp 120v/240v appliances. (Electric ranges come to mind - they often need both 240-volts for the elements and 120 volts for the controls, but they're almost always 40 or 50 amps.) If you were inspecting the house, you'd be able to tell for sure simply by observing what electrical appliances were installed. The overwhelming likelihood, though, is that they're MWCs, which are very common and which, until relatively recently, required no handle ties.
  21. The filter (or filters) will be somewhere in the return air stream - they could be anywhere. Start at the furnace's blower compartment and work your way back to the return-air grille. If you don't find the filter, hire an HVAC contractor to install a filter housing for you.
  22. I'm in Oregon - no where near as cold a climate as you - and I occasionally see heavy condensation at the rim joists; it's just not cold enough here for it to freeze . Every time I find this, I find a corresponding high moisture condition somewhere in the space. Aside from your main question, I'm curious. Around here, foundation footings are supposed to be placed below the frost line. How do you cope with that in your environment? Do you just have super deep crawlspaces?
  • Create New...