homnspector

Maybe you should brush your teeth first, then smell the water!

dad-dun-it

The circuit board is the only thing that makes sense to me. Even if the limit switch is bad the burner should shut down if the blower quits unless it is a bad limit switch plus a bad pressure switch which is unlikely.

I had somebody tell me how to check the elements once. I think it was disconnect the power. Disconnect the wiring from the elements. Check the continuity between terminals (should be). Check for continuity between each terminal at the water heater tank (should be none).

I hesitate to offer Brian any electrical advice but I agree with Terrance and others, continuity may not tell you if the element is heating. Try the amp meter.

I think I understand the problem..

I would say that there is no way to answer that question based on the info in the column. I have to say I routinely find no problems with systems that aren't installed "to code". I'm not a code inspector. Do I really care about the spacing of supports if there is no sagging? Do you know the code from 10 years ago in your area? If the HI missed an obvious problem I don't think the time is a factor. If the problem is a technicality with no big issues over 10 years, I would say "so sue me".

I'm with Chad, I have 3 stingers and an ultrastinger and very rarely use them. I have pretty much switched to the 5 watt led's, 2 for $30 at costco. The batteries last a long time and no recharge hassles.

All the installers around are pushing these. I was in the market for new equipment about a year ago, they all tried to sell me hybrid. with propane at over $3 a gallon there was no way it was a good idea, but I couldn't convince them of that. The HVAC guys around here have a hard time converting therms/gallons/BTU/ KWH. I ran the numbers and it was about 1/2 to run off electricity versus propane and about the 3/4 to run the strip heat. With natural gas there may be some savings but not much. I finally decided on a heat pump with heat strips and am saving about 30% over my old propane/electric equipment from 1996. Course it cost me $10,000 to save $100 per month.

I haven't been doing this long but it seems to me that the technology may be rocket science but interpreting the pics isn't. I am considering level I for liability and credential reasons. It is expensive and probably a bunch of stuff I really don't need to know. If you consider that anything found has to be verified by other means anyway, its not that critical if you think the cold/hot spot is missing insulation or a water leak.

Cary, These things have 3 wires. 2 are connected to the (2) 110 volt bus bars by way of 15a breakers dedicated to that purpose (not double tapped unless it is a brand that allows 2 wires). The third wire is grounded. If there is excess current on either bus (like 600 volts) it is diverted to the ground. The only reason for connecting them to a breaker (rather than directly to the bus) is so the supressor doesn't start a fire if it shorts out. I don't beleive it matters where in the main panel it is installed. Most that I see are double tapped either under the bus terminals or another breaker which is not the correct way. Big deal? Probably not but I would call it out.

Cary, you are correct, that's what it shows and that is not the way it should be installed. What more could you want? Maybe a correct diagram.

I would call it a furnace if it is an enclosed type like an Apollo rather than an underfloor system.

39215. It's just like real hunting, the trick isn't to aim, the trick is to get the lead : air ratio as high as possible.

You get to hold the head[:-crazy]

What Steve said, maybe for a vapor light. Or maybe it is an electric fence controller

Here's one from today with the TiR. Water leaking into the wall from the bathtub above. Download Attachment: IR000045.BMP 615.32 KB

I recently bought a Fluke TiR for 4k, almost a grand cheaper than the comparable Flir. The Flir is lighter, has a Lithium ion battery that can be changed out easily and seems to be a little more ergonomically designed, but to me wasn't worth the price difference. The Fluke is slightly more pixels (140x160). Heavier and shorter battery life. I don't know anything about the Flir software, but the Fluke is pretty cool. When you are editing the pics, there is a slider below the photo that you can slide from full IR to full visual or any in between.

Looks like a $400 back saw to me.

I would say you lost $175[]. This whole thing sounds a bit weird to me. I really don't see how Barry can make any judgment if he doesn't know any more than he presents in the column. Sometimes I think he makes up these questions. First, I would assume it must be a gas water heater if the inspector "should have been able" to see the bottom of the tank. I don't know of any electric water heaters where you can see any part of the tank. For what its worth, almost every gas water heater has rust on the bottom of the tank from condensation, seeing rust doesn't tell you a thing. I don't know how it is in other parts of the country, but gas water heaters routinely last 20 years here, and the water is very hard. I agree, it was stupid to give them any idea of expected life, but not negligent. Any thoughts that maybe the water heater was fine but leaking at a fitting and really didn't need to be replaced? IMO, there is not enough info to make any call about liability.

How long do you figure that internal combustion engine will last running 24 hours a day? Wonder if you have to dismantle it once a month and change the oil.

Why can't you see these things? What is the HVAC / Chimney 'professional" able to do that you aren't able to do? You need to explain why these things are outside the scope of your inspection.

AHI, A couple of other points. These often seem to be undersized. I have had homeowners complain that they cant keep their house warm, so you may want to put in a disclaimer about proper sizing being outside the scope of the inspection. Also be sure the water heater is a fast recovery type. Sometimes the water heater gets replaced with a standard water heater and won't heat adequately. I also warn them that the water heater will usually have a shorter life due to nearly constant use in the winter. Around here, the heat exchangers eventually get clogged with calcium, obviously you won't have any way to check this but the homeowner will call you when the repairman gives them the bill.

Here is boilerplate I include: This system produced an output temperature of about 100 (or whatever) degrees. This is fairly typical for hydronic heat. Due to the output temperature, these systems take a while to heat the home but do economically maintain a normal temperature. It is best to leave the thermostat at the ideal temperature rather than changing it constantly when leaving the house, etc. In addition, you may need to increase the heat setting at the water heater in the winter. Use caution to avoid scalding in the showers if the water heater is turned up in the winter. Installation of temperature regulating shower fixtures is recommended. Some tips for better operation: Increase the temperature setting at the water heater in the winter (be careful of possible scalding) Change the filter often. A damaged filter can allow dust to clog the heat exchanger. Periodically drain some water from the water heater to help prevent scale buildup in the heat exchanger (monthly drain out 5-10 gallons). Turn off the valves to the heat exchanger and reduce water temperature in the summer.

I probably overreact to this. I know only 2 electricians well. One was about electrocuted from a hot neutral on a disposal circuit. The other one always installs 2-pole breakers for multi-wire circuits. So, early in my career I assumed that was the way it was supposed to be. I have probably pissed off alot of electricians and sellers over the years. I am glad to see it in the NEC. Thanks jgclancy for posting that.