Mark P

It is not listed in the Carrier Blue Book database, which has proven reliable in the my experience.

NEVER

Integrity - honesty - objectivity as long as you follow these three rules market to whoever can give you a referral, and realtors can give you more referrals then anyone else when your getting started in the business. That does not mean kissing their (realtors) asses, it means you have to get your name and face known so they will give you that first referral. Then you have to provide a quality report that is honest, accurate, objective and comprehensive. If you do this it will lead to building a good reputation that will lead to more referrals. It is sometimes painful to stick to your guns (Integrity - honesty – objectivity). For awhile last year I was getting at least one job a week from one of the areas top agents – it was a sweet deal that ended when she called me and asked that I reconsider something I wrote up. I explained that it was a serious situation that I wish did not exist, but it did exist and had to report it as such. I never heard from her again, but I sleep well at night and I hope the young couple that were my customers sleep safe and sound too. If you’re a good public speaker and can present yourself well, try and get invited to the weekly meeting held at most real estate offices. They expect you to bring some kind of food, but in return you’ll get 5 minutes to talk about your business, reports, etc. You’re getting your name and face out there that may lead to that first referral. That first opportunity to demonstrate the quality of you performance. I made up a flyer (not a brochure) but a flyer that has my picture and logo on it (people hire people, not companies) that had 3-4 bullet statements that explained I provide electronic reports w/ digital photos; I work hard at educating the customer not just running a checklist, etc…. I placed these flyers in the agents distro boxes. Again getting your name and face out there that may lead to that first referral. Always be friendly and kind and carry your business cards– over the summer I helped an elderly lady load some groceries into her car. As she was thinking me she asked what I did - it turned out she was the matriarch of a family of 8 realtors and I now get regular referrals from the entire family team.

Good news for me - I made it through my first year, and I'd call it a success- even my sceptical wife said my new profession is work out better then she thought. I got a call yesterday from a real estate office that I have never visited, asking me to drop by some cards/brochures, when i did I was surprissed to find only 2 other HI brochures on the table. So lets see around 2300 homes sold each month in this county divided by 3 inspectors x $300 per inspection MAN I should make around $22 million a month next year - guess I better hire a CPA.

And for those who were wondering (like me) but were afraid to ask (cubic feet) = (square feet) × (height in feet)

Thanks a lot, I can't believe I looked right past the btu/h on the tag. Guess that does not make me today's bright and shining star.

Bradford-White 1993 40 gal gas water heater in a pantry closet with no air vents from which to pull combustion air. There are only a few inches to each side and front and 4-5' above the heater. The IRC states (as clear as mud) "Where the volume of the space in which fuel-burning appliances are installed is greater than 50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu/h (4.83 L/W) of aggregate input rating in buildings of ordinary tightness, insofar as infiltration is concerned, normal infiltration shall be regarded as adequate to provide combustion air." On one hand I like to think the proof is in the pudding, the water heater has been there since 1993 and everything seems to work fine. On the other hand my instincts tell me there needs to be some vents added. But pudding and instincts don't make for a fact based report. My question is: what the hell is the IRC telling me and how do I calculate it? How do I determine the btu/h of this water heater? The data tag does not seem to tell me anything. Attached is a pic of the data tag on the heater. As always thanks Download Attachment: 1.JPG 86.75 KB

Thanks for the info - could not read any markings - everything else in the home was copper - this is new construction in an old neighborhood

First time I've seen this type of pipe - blue seemed to be some sort of plastic. This is the main line running in from the curb side meter. Is this PEX? Download Attachment: 1.jpg 75.99 KB

I'm coming up on my 1 year anniversary as an inspector. I'm thinking about going to the NAHI Vegas conference Feb 18 - 21 because, I really don't want to stay at Diney Land, CA for the ASHI conference in January. I want (and need) to attend one of the big conferences this year to complete my CEUs for Illinois - what other conferences come along each year?

I recommend the vents be closed in winter to help prevent water lines from freezing. In most homes, especially older ones the water pipes are not insulated and the temps drop down to single digets in my area (I know folks North of Saint Louis will laugh at that). Last winter I left one vent open, even though my pipes are insulated they froze and it took me the entire !@# day of hanging 100 watt light bulbs and hair dryers and cusing to unfreeze them. As far as closing them during the hot and humid daze of summer, I agree with PI, keep them open.

And why are all the breakers different colors, blue, red, green? Is that some indication of the amperage?

Rough 1st inspection – geeezzz. It won't be me who does the edification – cuz I ain’t never seen one of them dare contraptions- but I'm eager to see what the electric-gurus have to say. It is stuff like this that makes TIJ so awesome, everyone benefits – everyone learns from each other questions. I have often returned from an inspection, posted a picture and question and usually receive helpful info while I’m sitting writing the report.

Okay, thanks, I guess I'll refer to it as the "reset button"

Thanks, Well the reason I'm asking is that I inspected this WH, detected a small gas leak from where the pilot light tub connects to the control box and wrote it up. 3 days later was contacted by the selling ageant saying the pilot had gone out, since I live close by and the sellers don't speak much english would I stop by take a look and expalin whatever needed to be explained to them. (like hire a plumber as the report stated) anyway when I stoped back by I found this knob was broken completly off, I told them there was nothing I could do and to call a plumber, they pretended like they new nothing about the knob, well they paid over $400 for a new theromcouple and control box for this 10 year old heater and they want me to pay for it. I'm having to write a letter explaning the facts and providing pictures, etc and I wanted to know what the stupid knob was called.

Can someone please tell me what the name and purpose of the tan (not black) round knob on top of the the thermostat. Thank you Download Attachment: 1.jpg 43.09 KB

I came accross this on todays inspection, first time I've seen a water heater used for this purpose. As best I can tell the pipes run under the floor of 1 bathroom and shower to heat it up , the rest of the house is heated by a forced air furnace. There is a circulating pump, pressure/temp gauge, 4 pipes running in/out of floor (bottom left corner). A couple of red things behind the gauge that I don't know what they are. If there is something wrong with it I don't know what it is, but thought I'd share it with the TIJ community. Anyone have a link to an article that will educate me on this set up, or even what the proper name is. Mark Download Attachment: 1.JPG 35.7 KB Download Attachment: 2.JPG 49.87 KB Download Attachment: 3.JPG 37.85 KB Download Attachment: 4.JPG 48.91 KB

Well, those are good and useful questions, but I don't have an answer, can't remember the exact location of the lights and fan... I'll remember to check those things next time I run into a similar situation.

Thanks all! I think Jerry nailed it, this is above the bathroom and that explains why it is concentrated in just this area. The black mess on the insulation below the affected area is the insulation on the a/c refrigerant line, which was manufactured in 1982 and can you believe the furnace was 1978!

A section of the plywood sheathing is blackened only in one area approximately 32" wide. The rest of the sheathing is normal except where it is water damaged along the bottom edge from lack of a drip edge. There are 2 12x9 gable vents for this 800 sqft attic. The roof is 15-20 years old? My question is why is this section black? My 1st thought was a ventilation problem except the blackness is only in this one area. So, my next guess was it is related to the black staining on the outside of the shingles, which I always thought was the tar leaching from the aging shingles. Anyway, I’ve already told the buyer the roof will likely need replacement in the next 5 years and some of the sheathing replaced with it, but I wanted to give him an explanation (and I want to understand too) of why this section is black. You thoughts and opinions are always appreciated. The last pic is just gee-wiz since I’m already posting this, it the dryer vent and years and years of lint build up in the attic, but not near the blackened area. Download Attachment: Inside.jpg 84.06 KB Download Attachment: outside.jpg 82.09 KB Download Attachment: Lint.jpg 63.52 KB

I had an interesting conversation with an agent today. I had written up a crawl space because all the air vents had been blocked with insulation. I do not inspect for mold, but I did identify that the wood girder was covered in a black substance and the wood was slightly soft. I recommend that the vents be opened (except during freezing weather) and the dirt ground be covered with 6mil plastic to help prevent moisture from coming up from the ground. The ageant said they had a mold guy speak at one of there meetings and he informed them that the vents should always (ALWAYS) be closed, to keep moisture out, and plastic should never be placed in the crawl space because mold grows underneath. I think I'm going to try and find out who this mold guy is and give him a call, I can't believe our recommednations are completly opposite. Am I missing the boat here? Mark Download Attachment: girder 1.jpg 48.34 KB Download Attachment: girder.jpg 42.4 KB

Thanks everyone, your correct the the only overcurrent protection for the red wire is the service panel's 60-amp breaker, I did not word that very well. I have no idea where it ran after it left the box. Yes I had all the grounding problems addressed, even though I don't understand the why behind it all. What i would like is some education on why is doubling up the neutrals or grounding wires under 1 screw a no no. I understand why the two have to be seperated in the sub-panel, but I don't know why the grounds can't share the same lug. I see it all the time, (I know that does not make it right). If you could recommend a good educational source, electrical wiring for dumb a@@es, or something it would be appreciated.

This is a sub-panel in a garage. AL wire running off a 60 amp breaker from main panel. I could not read the AWG markings on the wire, therfore I'm vague in my report about the ratings. Anyway, would one of you electrical gurus please take a look and see if I'm using the correct verbage or if I'm missing something here. Thanks in advance. Mark "Garage sub-panel: The main lug is double tapped. There is a second, smaller (red), wire attached to the main lug. The larger wire appears to be rated for 60amps, the smaller wire is rated at around 20 amps, both are connected to a 60 amp breaker in the main panel in the house. In the case of an electrical short or other problem the red wire may melt down and cause a fire before the 60 amp breaker trips. A qualified electrician needs to make appropriate repairs, to this sub-panel's wiring." Download Attachment: DTM.JPG 83.23 KB

I thought this was unusual enough to post, seems a bird found its way down the vent pipe and in to the heat exchanger. Bet they wondered why it smelled like fried chicken all winter. Download Attachment: bird.JPG 63.75 KB

Big, secret, cats