Mark P

Great, this is turning into a real lesson. So if I pull out the left block there will still be power to the right block, but no power to any of the other circuits, and I could go cook some mac-n-cheese in the dark? Would there not have to be a seperate service conductor coming in and connecting to both blocks? The house is empty I may try and get back over and try that out. Not the cooking this, but the other. From what you can see of this box, would you recommend it be panel be replace due to be obsolete? I have another inspection to go to but am enjoying this thread, and will be back tonight. If the 104+ heat does not get me first. Mark

The reason I plan on reporting it as 60 amp is I go with the smallest rating between panel, service conductor, and fuse/breaker. In this case 60 amp fuse is the limiting factor. The panel is rated 100 w/ what appears to be #4 tinned copper, so I understand those two aspects make it 100amp, but unless the fuses are changed out it is 60amps. At least that is what I believe now, I’m sure more knowledgeable HI will being jumping in this thread to help continue my education, because that is what makes TIJ such a great site. Speaking of education - you mentioned the panel board is obsolete. I agree, basically because it is old - but I have struggled with making this type comment to my customers because I am not able to explain what exactly is obsolete about it. Not using this box as an example, but if the fuse box has adequate amperage, copper wire w/ intact insulation, is grounded, not over filled, no other significant issues What do I say is obsolete about it? What criteria do I use to determine if a panel is obsolete?

Thanks for verifying that for me, Jim. Now whenever I come across anything less than 100 amp service I recommend it be upgraded. In this case, it seems possible that 100 amp fuses be installed in the main block, but I’m hesitant to recommend this as there may be other factors I’m not aware of. I’ll report it as 60 amp service, explain that this is sub-standard in today’s world and that a qualified electrician will need to evaluate and upgrade the system.

Main panel with fuse block. The main fuse block on the left has 1 60amp and 1 40 amp. The right block for the stove has 1 35amp and 1 40 amp. The panel is rated for 100 amps and the main wire appeared to be at least #4 tinned-copper. Now I know I’ve read you do not add the fuses together – so in this case a 60+40 do not = 100 amps, but I can’t find it in my jumble of a library and need someone to confirm I have not lost my mind, but it is possible. Should not the fuses inside the blocks be the same size? Thanks Mark Image Insert: 38.75 KB Image Insert: 34.94 KB Image Insert: 64.61 KB Image Insert: 31.81 KB Image Insert: 36.48 KB

Was this an open sump? The sump has a removable lid. What was it lined with? I Don’t remember Were there inlets in the side of the sump that might have connected to underground tiles? Yes, two clay tiles entered the sump from either side Was there a backflow valve on the discharge pipe? No Got any pictures of the sump itself? No. It was your basic pump, with the float lever that activates its operations.

Fill button - I'll start looking, Thanks.

I see this once every month or two. In addition to recommending the services of an asbestos abatement company to determine the best coarse of action. I recommend that my customers obtain the booklet "Asbestos in the Home" published by the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission. The EPA # is 800-368-5888. http://www.epa.gov/iaq/asbestos.html

I’ve seen the adds for the valves, but have thought that this would reduce the energy efficiency of the windows since they are no longer argon filled and the leaking seal, to some extent, makes the double pane into a single pane. Adding the valve may help remove trapped moisture, but does not restore the original efficiency. Just my thoughts. By the way I read the post this AM before going to my inspection, and used the ice cube trick on a questionable window, it worked,

The gray water from washing machine and the condensation from a/c evaporator coil drain into a sump and is then pumped up and into the main drain/waste/vent system. I do not remember seeing this set up before. The sump is directly under the DWV so the run from sump up to where it connects to DWV is only 2-4 feet. The washer is sitting next to sump and the run is about 2’. I understand the municipality would frown on any ground water that may make it into the sump being discharged into there system, but otherwise can’t put my finger on what might otherwise be wrong. There are no floor drains. There was water in the sump, but don’t know if it was just from the condensation & washer or also from the ground water that made its way there. In the picture the vertical PVC is coming up from the sump and joins just below the drain from the kitchen. Any thoughts on this set up are appreciated. Mark Image Insert: 36.9 KB

I like the idea of watching a pool company do the inspection and taking the class. I grew up in FL and always had a pool, but as a kid all I new is I was not to pee in it. I also remember playing a game where we would swim under water from one end to the other while the other kids tossed bricks in trying to hit us. Man did the parrents get mad when they found bricks in the bottom of the pool. John, What company offers the training? Do you have a link?

I've signed up and am looking forward to meeting some of ya'll there. Mark

In my area there are not a lot of swimming pools, but there are some. Maybe 5-10% of the homes have pools, maybe less. On the occasion I do inspect a house with a pool, I inform my buyer that I do not know much about pool equipment and do not report on it. They should get with the sellers to go over the operation of equipment. Or hire a pool company to inspect and educate them on the pool. I do conduct a cursory look for any obvious leaks or odd sounds from the equipment (if running), check the electrical outlets and any junctions boxes. Checks the condition of the fence and any decks. I do not change the valves position (backwash, etc) check chemicals, or filters or anything else because I don’t know much about them. And I do not have a pool section in my report. If I find an electrical issue it goes in the electrical section, etc. My question is what do other inspectors check and report on regarding swimming pools? If you do report on swimming pools what do you check and report on? Would you mind sharing with me that section of your report or any check list you may have? Does anyone have a recommended source to become smart on pools? I have done reading on the net, to include old post on TIJ, but lack practical experience and don’t want to say I can inspect a pool and get out there and not know how to operate that model pump (or all they all the same) . On the other hand I don’t like loosing a job because I don’t inspect pools. I guess it is like any other aspect of HI, when I started I knew nothing about boilers systems, but know feel perfectly comfortable inspecting them. Anyway any pointers are appreciated. Mark

Empire Gravity Vented wall furnace: natural gas, Model# GW-25-6, ANS date 1993... and Image Insert: 24.64 KB Image Insert: 47.46 KB FAW-60-1SPP, ANS date 1985 I never ran into one of these units before today and am not aware of any unusual risk, issues, concerns. I searched the internet and the CPSC and have found no issues. I just wated to see if anyone has experience with these units and any usefull info. Thanks mark

Raising this thread from the grave – hoping there may be a fresh perspective on this issue. Today I found a microwave 14.5â€

Chimney used only for furnace vent. I usually recommend it be covered, but I guess it has been like this for 80+ years and I’m now wondering what is the point. Is there any benefit to covering the opening ? I never understood where the rain goes in this type set up, but I see it from time to time. And yes I see the bird nest. Image Insert: 61.27 KB Image Insert: 57.17 KB

I lived in Japan for 12 years and when I took vacations w/ my wives family we often went to hot springs. The water was so damn hot, that by the time I finally got in, everyone else was getting out. I could only stand it for a few minutes and would have a hard time breathing. Neither, could I bath at their house, because they kept the bath water to hot. There was a very very large tub, the water is changed once or so a week and always kept at a constant very hot temperature. Before getting in the bath you would sit on a tiny stool - soap up and rinse off by filling a bucket up under a faucet and poring over your head. After 20 years of marriage, I still cannot get in the shower with my wife, because it is scalding hot to me, and my showers are freezing to her. So while I tell my customers 120 is safe and anything higher could cause scalding and cost more $, I guess a lot of it is what your used to.

Thanks guys

Appears to be an asphalt based product similar to asphalt shingles. Does any one know what it is and have a name for it. You can see there was another layer that looks like brick under the top layer, but seems to be the same stuff. Download Attachment: 1.jpg 100.57 KB Download Attachment: 2.jpg 149.35 KB Download Attachment: 3.jpg 128.36 KB

Thanks Guys!

I do not see this type of old flexible gas line too often. What is it made of (named)? And I believe I've read it has a history of problems and should be replaced. Is that correct? Thanks mark Download Attachment: 1.jpg 84.03 KB

1 ½ story house, upstairs is finished except for small knee wall attic that is insulated on all walls and roof. Is it correct to say the vapor barrier on the wall between the finished space and the attic is on the wrong side, but the vapor barriers on the roof and exterior walls is correct? There is no ventilation in the area, but with the roof insulated is it needed? Or should roof insulation be removed and a vent added? Thanks as always Mark Download Attachment: 1.jpg 58.23 KB

Thank you for response.

Thanks Mike, Sears was little help. They said the first time someone researched parts for it was in 1992, so it might be around that. It looks like it maight be around 20 years old.

Geez, this house was just plain hard. Nothing was simple at all. It had been a 1890 single family changed to a duplex. Two boilers, two water heaters, two kitchens, multiple panel boxes, all kinds of crazy movement in: basement floor, garage walls, and get a load of this chimney. It was so high I'd have to have a chopper to get a look down it and I was not about to lean my ladder against it. I don't know if you can see in the pic but it was all kinds of crooked. Download Attachment: chimney.jpg 50.34 KB

Can someone help with when this was made. Thanks Mark Sears Roebuck Model# 229-962171 SER. NO. 1D711