Mark P

Les, I thought it was EPA protocol to have someone independent of the mitigation company retest after a system is installed. This avoids a conflict of interest.

Thanks everyone for the comments. I just reported it as a membrane roof covering. For my own benefit I still want to learn more about it. I did not see the DL logo on the seams Jim. But that is a good lead and I've visited the Duro-Last web site and have requested a sample of their product. I did note the lack of counter flashing, but did not consider the effect the membrane would have on the brick parapet, thanks Kurt. The house needs the TLC of a mason anyway because it was built in 1900 and has a lot of spalling bricks in the basement and tuck-pointing needed all over. The outside right wall looks like a body builders ab muscles from all the movement. But that is another story. There was mastic on a few spots along the parapets. What I hate about it is you can’t see why it was applied. Was it a repair of a hole or just someone wanting to apply some preventive measure in a suspicious area? According to the owner it is only 5 years old. I’ll read up on heat and solvent welding of PVC type membrane. The wet roof was slipperier then snot, with rain turning to sleet, so I only walked on a smaller 1st floor area that I accessed through a window. I did not trust my ladder in the extension mode and in the step ladder mode it leaned to the side to the point I had to have my customer hold it while I stood and held onto the gutter and snapped a bunch of photos. The point being I did not walk on the area you see in the pics. Image Insert: 67.27 KB

I see a white membrane with dirt and algae on it. In your blown-up picture, I see a section where the dirt's been rubbed off. It's probably all over Mark's pants or on his sleeve. Also, if it had been painted there'd be paint all over the termination strips and the chimneys. - Jim Katen, Oregon It is definitely white with algae stuff on it.

There is a contractor around here installing them for around $850. I'm just outside St. Louis.

Well shoot, I don't know what to call it except rubber roof - and I'd like to be more specific. I've got all day to write the report so hopefully someone will be able to help ID it. I'll continue to search the net. thanks

Hi, In my neck of the woods asphalt rules the roofing world and I have little opportunity to see other types of roofing. Is this EDPM or is there a better nomenclature? Other then looking for holes, tears, blistering, ponding what should I be looking for? What do you tell your customers about these type of roofs? I've read they last 40 years and should be cleaned of debris. Thanks Image Insert: 91.2 KB Image Insert: 51.1 KB

Thanks for your concern Bluewolf, but it really is not necessary. Good to see someone from my own back yard here on TIJ.

I ran accross something new - for me - yesterday in the attic of a 1960 home. The sheathing has some sort of paper backing that has fallen off making for oddly ugly attic. Is anyone familiar with this product? Image Insert: 48.18 KB Image Insert: 44.09 KB Image Insert: 60.04 KB

The 15 amps marked on the meter is the tests rating for the meter(or something like that) -it is not the amperage supplied to the house.

Yes, Watts wants to do it again and they want to do it better this time. We've got to get off our duff and begin planning that sucker. OT - OF!!! M. Mike, I'll be happy to help orginize another Watts class, I'm not to far away, (2-3 hours) I'm a member of the St. Louis ASHI chapter and should be able to get some attendies from there. Let me know what you would like done and I'll do it. That is anything except drag Les back to his room at 7pm wearing those stupid pink pumps. Oh and that thing w/ Kurt is off the list too. Otherwise I'm game.

Thank you, that looks like a useful site.

Well okay then, I guess I’m just going to have to disagree with everyone on this point of lighting pilots and until the day I set myself on fire I say that I’m right your wrong and I refuse to change my mind. Besides as a general guide line I try to avoid using the water heater to light my crack pipe, after all Richard Prior did teach me more then how to cuss. But seriously we all make our business decisions and we all conduct our businesses differently. I am perfectly comfortable putting flame to fuel after making a situational evaluation. It is a judgment call that I make at the time of inspection. I also turn on stoves and run dishwasher and look up chimneys and go in crawl space less then 30â€

Okay Walter, Good advice and I agree w/ you 100% and to boot you did not even annoy me this time. Thanks. [^]

What is your opinion of a clothes dryer that has a section of vent that runs straight up into the attic? The house I did yesterday was set up as follows. Dryer is located in 2nd floor closet. The vent runs straight up (around 4’) into the attic and then turns and runs at a downward slope (around 12-15’) to the exterior wall and outside. There are 2 90 degree turns not counting the transition. I know what the IRC says and I understand the numbers. I’m just wondering what others think about the vertical section and what you would say in the report if anything. I think I’m going to place something as follows in the report. “Your clothes dryer vents runs up into the attic where it turns and runs above the master bedroom ceiling and outside by the chimney. There are 2 90 degree turns in the vent. This set up may allow for lint to build up which creates a fire hazard and increases dry time. My recommendation is as soon as you move in use a leaf blower to blow out the vent, from the inside, and do this every 6 months. I also recommend you contact the manufacture of your dryer to obtain their venting instructions. General practice is that the max the maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 25 feet from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. This length is reduced 2.5 feet for each 45-degree bend and 5 feet for each 90-degree bend. This does not include the transition duct. The exception to the practice is when dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions permit something different.â€

Here is how I work the utilities. When the appointment is made one of the questions I ask is “are the utilities on? If the answer is no, they are not on, I establish the customers expectations by explaining how the inspection will be limited. This often prompts them to say something like “I’m going to call the realtor and see if we can get them turned on, and I’ll call you back.â€

Thanks Jeff, I had never heard/seen of vented drip edges for homes w/o a soffit area, and the solor powered vent is an interesting idea. My problem w/ powered vents is that no one konws when they stop working, I've see 4-5 each year that are inoperable.

I've been told (by Kurt and Les) that the man who invented the GFCI would travel around to trade shows, set in a kiddie pool filled with water and have people throw radios in that were pluged into his invention, the GFCI.

So if I build it will they come? Looks like a fun thing to build with my kids, and as a bonus the idea will drive my wife batty.

http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/523.pdf Garage door safety from th CPSC. I provide this link to my customers if the door does not have the sensors.

Thanks Guys.

New construction. What is the rule on not having an air return within so many feet/inches of the combustion chamber of a furnace? Should I consider the filter opeing in this setup in this regards? This is how I was going to write it up, but maybe I should add something more? Opinions.... "Improve: Install a cover over the HVAC filter opening. Not covering this opening, allows for a substantial amount of air leakage around the edges of the filter panel rather than causing all of the air to flow through the filter. " Thanks Download Attachment: 1.jpg 45.72 KB

"Unfortunately, in Illinois training is not required to become a home inspector. All you have to do is pass a test and you are considered a home inspector.â€

Maintenance Tip and Great Customer Service I bought an Extend-n-Climb telescoping ladder in the Spring. It works wonderfully, especially for attic scuttle holes in closets or low roof lines. Easy to extend and simple to collapse and store. That was until I used it in the rain and then left it in my van without drying if off. After this it was extremely difficult to use, and became a two person job to collapse it because one person has to hold in the latches while the other pushes down. I called the manufacture and they recommended I use Pledge Lemon Wipes to clean it. This did help considerable, but some of the sections were still tough to move. A 2nd call to the company and they are sending me a brand new ladder, without me even asking for it. Now how is that for Outstanding Customer Service.

Wow! You guys are my heros. Thanks.

House built in 1947, public water, public sewer. The large screw valve on the floor does not seem to do anyting except rotate. The picture is dark, but the floor had been dug up around the valve and the cement replaced, si it may not have been orginal. This is in the basement on the front side of the house, just uner the main water shut off valve. So what do you think it is. Image Insert: 49.31 KB Image Insert: 26.82 KB