Mark P

I know this is a simple question, but I'm having a brain fart. What is the correcte term when a 200amp main disconnect is connected to a #3 AWG. Is it "over fused"???

There is a Carrier Blue Book that list HVAC data, but I don't think it is free. I have it on CD, type in the model # and bang I've got: Btu, year, etc.

I see this all the time. I could easily go through my photos and find 100 similar pic. It has to be were they attached a cable to hoist the joist up. Here is a pic from yesterday Image Insert: 60.38 KB

If I were to buy one book on roofing is this the one to buy? I'd like a good reference source to cover many different types of roof coverings.

I found this interesting. This house was from a few daze ago. Only 8 years old. I just wrote it up as needing all the ridge caps replaced. The pictures pretty much say it all. The higher I went the worse the damage got, but only to the ridges. Any theories on why they are so worn? Image Insert: 57.29 KB Image Insert: 73.7 KB Image Insert: 83.47 KB Image Insert: 94.25 KB

Ah! pressure washer. I like it and the little light bulb that just came on over my head likes it to.

Attic venttulation is fine. Here is another pic. Download Attachment: 4.jpg 60.68 KB

13 year old roof with significant granule loss, exposing the fiberglass underneath. No signs of leaks anywhere. The damage is pretty much to entire roof. I believe it is hail damage, but of course I could be wrong. I plan on recommending the roof covering be replaced. My question is do you agree? Would a qualified roofing contractor consider this type of damage cosmetic? Image Insert: 68.18 KB Image Insert: 120.28 KB Image Insert: 119.45 KB

Thank You Les, Kurt, Steven and everyone for your input. I always appreciate your help.

The e-perm is an Electret Ion chamber not a carbon canister. "option 2: Simultaneous Testing" is an option used with carbon canister and does not apply in this case.

In my case I find radon testing easy, because all I have to do is follow some very clear EPA and State protocols. I don’t even have to give my opinion on it. Just do the test according to the rules and if I’m asked a question I say “according to the EPA…. I would drop the part about the contract and the realtor and also the verbiage on where the things where placed. I would keep a record of all the details in case it should come up in the future. Because of IL law I have to draw a sketch of the homes foot print, location of all windows, doors, HVAC equipment, sumps, floor drains, fireplaces, and where the test equipment is placed. Start/stop time date, etc There are a lot of rules on where to place the detector but here are some of the basics: Position detector where it will not be disturbed. Place it in lowest habitable living area Should not be near drafts caused by HVAC, doors, fans, etc Not within 12â€

John, Not to sound mean, but I don’t know how else to say this. If you don't know the answer you should not be conducting radon tests. Furthermore are you aware of all the various EPA protocols for conducting radon test? If not then someone who is in the know can argue the test are not valid. I’d encourage to obtain some additional education so you can speak intelligently about radon, radon mitigation, and know that your test meet established EPA protocols. There are lots of classes around. Anyway, I always say that the EPA recommends mitigation above 4.0….….. Here are some sites you can send your customers to http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/index.html http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/index.html http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/hmbyguid.html http://www.epa.gov/iaq/tvads.html

Well, I just don't know. When I stuck my moisture meter probes into the hole it went in an inch or more and then hit a backing. I thought I was pushing it through the sytrofoam behind the coating, but it could have just been the resistance from the mesh. It sounded hollow when I tapped on it. I figured EIFS because of the decorative work between the upper and lower windows. I sure would hate to make a big deal out of the poor EIFS installation and it turn out not to be EIFS. Without being destructive how I can I be sure?

It provides the crack heads with more copper, but someone else may have another take on it.

I very rarely see EIFS, so I'd like a 2nd opinion and advice on what I should say in the report. The customer was not at the inspection. I think the pictures say it all. But just in case they don't ... there is just a small section of EIFS to the left of the front door, the rest of the house is brick. The house was built in 1987. There is a hole in the surface and cracks around the windows. I scanned it with my moisture meter and even used the probes in the hole and found no evidence of moisture. As of right now I’m just going to explain the known problems with EIFS, that the hole and cracks will let water in but not out and that significant damage could occur, but I found no evidence of damage, and they should have a certified EIFS inspector look at it. Thoughts? Image Insert: 36.94 KB Image Insert: 38.91 KB Image Insert: 46.28 KB Image Insert: 45.78 KB

Only my 2nd gravel roof in 3 years. House built in 1954 with one owner, who just passed away. I told my customer the roof covering needs to be redone. The sections I could see (along the edges) are in poor condition, there should not be this much standing water (rained 2 daze ago) and it will be expensive. Do you agree that this roof should be completly replaced? How is it done? Just fishing for a 2nd opinion and more info on gravel roofs. Thanks Download Attachment: 1.jpg 94.34 KB Download Attachment: 2.jpg 94.64 KB Download Attachment: 3.jpg 98.68 KB Download Attachment: 4.jpg 94.85 KB

When I started I went to a lawyer and he suggested a Sub S Corp. Since I've never had any leagl problem I can't say how much protection it wil actualy provide. But as far as expenses I get pretty pissed everytime my company has to: payroll tax, unemployment tax, and a few other's that escape me at the moment. In all fairness there are benifits too, but the extra paper work and expenses are real.

It is normal for radon levels to fluctuate. This is why the test should be a minimum of 48 hours. There are many factors that effect the radon level diurnal cycle. Some reasons for the fluctuations include: Changes in air pressure, wind, temperature difference between inside and outside, operating mechanical equipment, rainfall, …

Steve, When I search for your site an choose it, it comes up fine. I tried it several times. The problem may be on your computer. It may be infected with a virus or browser hijacker. I have experienced similar problems from time to time. The last time it was so bad I had to take my computer into a shop to get the hijack virus off. Here is some stuff you can do for free that may help. 1. Run "Disk Cleanup" and delete all temp internet files, cookies, etc. 2. Scan your PC with both of these free programs. http://www.superantispyware.com http://www.ewido.net/en/ Go to the left of the page where it says,"Scan your computer now online and clean it for free!" Install and run "Windows Defender" http://www.microsoft.com/windows/produc ... fault.mspx Good Luck

When I see old HVAC equipment I tell people that their going to spend the money in one of two ways: Either keep the old equipment and pay the utility company or pay a contractor for new equipment. When a realtor or home owner says “well it still worksâ€

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That is crazy! I bet everyone here on TIJ will be thinking of your story the next time they look at a panel, and espically the next time they go to switch a breaker. Glad your okay. I would not say anything to the seller for a few days, let them worry a bit. You know they are sweating it since they said they could throw a few inspections your way. I never wear safety glasses, but I'm going to give it more consideration now.

Can you make the pic a bit bigger?

When writing your report how do you categorize (label) your comments / findings? In my reports I use a label before each comment such as: “Needs Improvementsâ€

I have the chart and "Appollo" is not on it. My guess would be 1989.