Mark P

An 1890 house that was converted to a duplex and now will be reconverted back to a single family home. There are two 100 amp main disconnects outside by the meters. In the basement there are two newer separate sub panels (one for each floor) with breakers, in which the Neutrals and grounds are separated. Seems everything is as it should be. Now the questions come. Down stream from each of these new sub-panels are old fuse sub-panels (a sub-sub panel) in which the Neutral/grounds are NOT separated. Since they are separated in the first sub panel is it okay? I don't believe these sub-sub panels are even needed. It seems they could be completely removed and replaced with a junction box. My second question is when the house is changed back to a single family home, they will not want two meters with two separate bills and basic fees. The power company will remove one of the meters. Can they keep the two (100 amp) main disconnects with the separate sub-panels providing 100amps to each floor? Or would it be better to have a single 200 amps main installed while keeping the two sub-panels, servicing each floor?

Okay, I have a lot of questions today after spending 6 hours on yesterday afternoon's inspection. This is the first, well maybe not so much a question, as just a second opinion and sharing something different. There are two water heaters (and yes one of them is older then the young lady buying the house, 1978). Take a look out how they are vented. I have never seen this and am not sure what to think of the set up, especially the big muffler looking thing in the middle. There is no pitch except for the short section in the back. Can anyone offer any insight. Regarding the venting I'm thinking I'm going to keep it simple and write "Water heaters vent pipes are pitched improperly - there must be a minimum of ¼ inch upward slope per foot up towards the chimney with no dips or sags - recommend qualified contractor repair as necessary" Download Attachment: water heater 2.jpg 93.33 KB Download Attachment: water heater.jpg 100.42 KB

No, it is tinned copper. Another question. The double tap off the main lug goes to a 30 amp breaker, subpannel. Since it does have overload protection I did not write it up - is this correct?

Thanks all! The double taps on the main lug run to a subpannel with a 30 amp breaker. I'll finish my morning coffee, and take a shower before I start eating my crow.

People say I'm long winded, but here is my standard comment for missing AFCI in new construction. Feel free to use it... "Improve: The “2006 INTERNATIONAL RESIDENTIAL CODE®Ã¢â‚¬

What is the amperage of this set up? The attached pic is from today's inspection, home built in 1961. The top fuse block is the stove (50 amp) the next one down is the a/c (40 amp), the square one in the middle has 60 amp fuses in it. I don't know the gage of the main wire coming in, it was the original tined copper in rubber sheathing, so could be 60 or 100? The box itself was rated at 150amp. In determining the amperage for the house I went with the least common dominator the 60 amp main fuse block. I indicated this was substandard, outdated and should be updated – also have a sparky evaluate and provide cost estimate of upgrade before closing, blah blah blah. A little while ago I get a call from the realtor saying the city has inspected the home recently and according to them the house has 100 amps available. She nicely asked if I was sure because if in fact it is only 60 amps the deal might fall through. I certainly want provide accurate info so I sure would appreciate any educated opinion on what this houses amperage is. In the morning I will try and call the city inspector to get his take on the set up. I understand with some set ups you add the amps of different fuse blocks together, but the more I think about it the more I’m not sure in the case. Thanks in advance Mark Download Attachment: 1.jpg 115 KB

Yes 75,000 BTU is correct. The serial number actually starts with "M", not "L" I'll attach a pic of the data plate, but I don't know if you'll be able to zoom in enough to see it. The Mfgrs# in on a line above the S/N. It looks a lot more like 1969 then anything newer. As always thanks for the help. Download Attachment: 3.jpg 129.78 KB

I usually call the company if I can't determine the manufacturing date, but it is late. The unit is old and rusted. But I'd like to tell them how old. Heil gas furnace: Model# GU75MD1 Mfgrs# 86301A69 S/N 19212 Thanks Mark

My 1st 6-8 months I did both, but now, due to cost and time, I only e-mail, unless they do not have e-mail, or request a hard copy.

A washing machine and wet bar both in basement both drain into a floor drain. I'm not sure how to write this up, if at all. Download Attachment: 1.jpg 35.95 KB

Maybe they are including some of your height

A tracer wire, as in in they need to locate the underground line?

A basement sump pump ejects the water into a basement floor drain. I could not find anything is the IRC or code check on this, but it seems that the sump should not eject into public sewer system. Would this be an issue more likely governed by the local municipality? Is anyone aware of a code restriction? Thanks Mark

Hum - never thought about it that way. I look at the MLS / flyers to find out when the home was built and for any other useful clues / disclosures – but have never even considered them as a source document for my report. Can't believe someone would liable themselves in such a way, when it is so obvious the roof is a mess. Were they hoping no one would get up and look at it? I’m recommending this portion of the roof covering be completely removed and all necessary repairs made and a new roof covering installed by a professional and reputable contractor. 22 years in the AF taught me a thing or two about integrity - so they'll have to find another HI to be their monkey, but business has been great, so I’m doing something right.

The MLS stated the roof was recently replaced. Replaced by who - the 3 blind pigs!? Geeez! Download Attachment: 1.JPG 68.35 KB Download Attachment: 2.jpg 75.02 KB Download Attachment: 3.jpg 74.88 KB

I sometime ask "Have you used a home inspector before"? Regardless of what they answer I still give them some version of my little speach, I just start it differently. If they answer "no" I'll say "why don't I explain a little about what to expect" if the answer "yes" I'll say "then you already know that I'll....."

I answer the phone “Hi – this is Mark, how can I help youâ€

I believe the builders leave the pumps out to save money. Same reason they don't install AFIs or garbage disposals.

Wow Paul, now that's a lot of education! I only had to read it 8 times to follow what your saying, but I sure do appreciate you taking the time to say it.

A 200 amp main breaker with 2 copper #4 AWG connected. Home built in 50's. Now I know #4 is rated for 100amp, but I can't believe 2 #4 would equal 200 amp. Electrical is not my strong suit, but this just seems silly. Am I missing something? I'm recommending a sparky evaluate, but wanted some education and oppinions for the TIJ community. Thanks Mark Download Attachment: 1.jpg 77.9 KB

Are you sure the model# ends in "-12"? I don't show the "-12" in the last 2 digets, but can offer the following 58ES150-(2,3) 150000 btu 1978

Thanks guys, the walls are cement, the stuff overhead is just something stored in the joist. If the shower head were a different type, such as one with a hose attached, the spray could easly hit the panel, as it is now, maybe if no curtain was installed. The picture is priceless Richard, I won't put it in the report but will send it along seperatly, maybe I'll send it to the city inspector.

House built in 1966, as you can see the panel would be just inches outside of a shower curtain if one were installed. According to the seller the city inspector came out twice to look at it and passed it as being ok. The 1st time on the routine inspection, the 2nd time after a realtor questioned the set up. I can only guess the city passed it as okay because over-current devices have not been allowed in bathroom since 1993 and this was existing construction from 1966. I’m going to put the following in the report and am interested any anyones opinion. “The main electrical panel is directly in front of the basement shower, less then one foot from where a shower curtain would hang. This is a serious safety concern as water and electricity are a deadly combination. There are many unpleasant scenarios that could occur such as a malfunction / short circuit inside the panel box resulting in the box becoming electrically charged, someone getting out of the shower would be killed. A misdirected shower head could easily spry water onto and possible into the box. Humidity from a hot shower could overtime cause corrosion or rust inside the panel box which would lead to problems that could be costly to repair. While it is possible this is not technically a code violation, because it was allowed at the time of construction; and only since 1993 have over-current devices been prohibited from bathrooms– my recommendation is to separate the panel and the shower. One solution would be to build a wall across the current shower opening and add an opening from where the toilet is currently located.â€

Thanks, that is all very informative, I ended up turning the breaker back on, and just telling the guy the problem and that damage may have already occured and a HVAC contractor needed to get on it asap.

Well, reading my own question a burned out fan is better then frozen pipes, and less liable to me, so I'm going back over to turn the breaker back on. I guess my real question is do you know if the fan has to operate at these freezing temps and what damage may occur to the heat pump leaving it own with the fan frozen?