StevenT

I finally figured out how to get this going. I thought it was interesting and am happy to share it. Sit back and enjoy the show.

WJ. I couldn't agree with you more, especially in regards to residential installations. EIFS has been a pet peeve of mine for quite some time, and it is for that reason that I felt it was necessary to learn all about it. The idea itself happens to be good. Outsulation instead of insulation. Actually, I do have an idea that would revolutionize the EIFS industry and make it pretty much "fool proof". If ever I hook up with the right person or group that I feel confident will not steal it from me, it may come to pass. I assure you, it would revolutionize the industry.

I also have my EDI certification. And I was impressed with their course. I can not compare it as Scott can, but like I said, a great deal of information.

Thank you Les, To tell you the truth, I was a bit squeemish at first, but it went the way I thought it would. Some said it was wrong and unprofessional, some were afraid of lawsuits, and some were ready to spit in the eye of the devil. I think I wanted to hear it all, and decide how I would deal with a similar situation in t he future. I will always report how I see it. As far as suggesting working on the price, if I have a client that wants a property and there are problems with it, I don't think there is anything wrong with me reccomending they negotiate it out. Perhaps I should not have put it in writing. Not for legal reasons, but I think I would be embarassed if the seller read my comment... but even if he did, bottom line is, so what? I would rather him know I suggested that, and not that they walk. Ok, I'm there to inspect, that's it. But after three inspections with them, I do have somewhat of a relationship. I find it had to turn my back on them if they ask. Especially, this is the type of house that could destroy them... really. Truth is, the seller is somewhat of a sheister. Like someone who puts sawdust in a transmission, so the cars runs good enough to sell. If you were a mechanic and a customer brought you a car to check out, would you tell it like it is? You don't have to answer that, I've read enough of your comments to know "you ain't no scairty cat".

Ok, I admit I started a bit wishy washy, I was in uncharted waters. This is the third inspection I've done that is somehow connected to these people. After the inspection, I met with her husband... they could not attend the real thing, she was busy giving birth. He appeared like a child buying his first car. No matter what was wrong... he wanted it. Now, that is ok with me, so long as I have made the condition of the house clear. And, I do feel somewhat responsible for the well being of my clients. I am not nor have I ever been a "gimme the check-goodbye type of person. They hired me to do something for them that they didn't know how to do themselves. I like the way Chad shortened my letter. Except for the punchlist part. If I present an inspection to a client, and they would like me to make sure that they understand it and have absorbed it, I'll do it. I'm happy to hear WJ's opinion. I know he has spent a great deal of time protecting folks. To tell you the truth, I wanted to say, "the house is a dog, if you want to buy the property and tear it down and rebuild, ok, otherwise run away, you are in over your head. I will be more careful in the future... before I click "send". I am concerned about lawsuits, so I try to do a good job and make sure I can back up what I say. But, I do not shiver and shake and not report what I see out of fear of a lawsuit. (I can always call Walter to bail me out) I also no longer solicit RE agents for work... at all. I refuse to be indebted to anyone other than my client. It may take longer to build up the clientelle, but I prefer the reputation of telling it like it is and screw who don't like it.

"sorta" I felt that right after I hit the send button.

Chris, she didn't complain, I didi feel a bit awkward though. This is the third inspection I did that was somehow connected to her. The thied house that serious fault was reported. This house is a real dog. It appears to be a garage converted to a two bedroom house. Possible illegal sewer, water, electric. Brick house with wood patches covered in very sloppy EIFS. 4x4 posts holding up floors, collapsing cellar floors. New windows, old window, rotted windows. But, the lot is very pretty. Was everything I said wrong? Or, just the price of the house part? And even that, is it really wrong to tell a client with a house that has so many problems but still wants the house to negotiate? Or was the only thing I did wrong was to put it in writing?

This is a message to a client that I recently did and inspection for. I'm wondering if it was wrong for me to advise her to negotiate the price of the house, or if some of my other comments were out of order. She and her family are regular clients of mine and she has referred work to me. I do not believe it is the job of an HI to advise a client to buy or not, but I do believe it is the HI's responsibility to make them aware of what they are buying. OK guys, tear me up. Hi Elena, I received your message, I'm happy you contacted me. To tell you the truth, I was concerned that you were upset because it seems that I keep finding all of these problems with the houses that you wish to buy. But, that is what you hired me to do and I assure you that what I reported really does exist. I will be glad to go over your punch list. I will add a few things to it and comment on some of the things you have already included. I have a feeling many of the items that you request will not be granted. I realize that you love the house, and I really don't blame you. Just realize that the house needs quite a bit of work, quite a bit of re-work. This house can be wonderful, so long as you realize what you are getting into and are able and willing to do what it takes. If not, it could be your worst nightmare... I have a house that was in the same condition... more or less... than the one you are looking at. I would like to show it to you so you can get an idea of what it takes to REALLY fix a house and not just hide things with band-aids. Remember, It's one thing to fix up a house good enough to sell, it's another thing to fix it up good enough to be your home. Anyway, I will prepare my comments, see what you can get him to do, see what you can do with the price of the house. Don't be scared, don't be bashful. The house needs a lot of work, it is a buyer's market. Please keep my advice confidential. Use it to your advantage, but please keep it confidential.

The electrician I spoke of did work on other projects I'm involved with. Around here, lots of guys, plumber and electricians do work and pay to have it covered by someone with a license. I have a feeling that this house was done with no permits, pans, etc. About 50 years ago, there was a fire in the building department. They lost all of the records and anything build before then can be made into just about anything. If you get away with the work, while in progress. This house reeks of un-permitted work. I wouldn't start a problem for two reasons. First, If my client wants the house... and he does, why would I open a can of worms for him. Secondly, I wouldn't want anyone to do it to me. I have, simply informed my client of my findings and suspicions, he can decide whatever he wants to do. That is all I was hired to do. I advised him to have his attorney clarify and document the status of the plumbing, including the sewer and water. I also advised him to have his attorney do the same regarding the legality of the structure... And I recommended that he have a licensed electrician inspect the entire electrician and to SIGN OFF,on the job.

I love the oldies too. I have a 58 caddy, just had it painted and now I'm waiting for the chrome to get done. I also have a 60 caddy, drove it to a mechanic to fix what I thought was a lifter tap, turns outthe guy was a real ass. I brought it home in a basket. If anyone in interested, I have a 67 GTO Clone convertible that need restoration. I have all the nes sheetmetal. It's just too big of a project for me to handle at this time. Like many others, I've just got too much on my plate. I will sell or trade it. Image Insert: 82.06 KB

Like WJ says, just wipe it off. The system that I mentioned above Was central air... no heat. The original stain occured after a few weeks of a dirty enviorment, Now that it's cleaned up, it has been about two months without a reoccurance. Another example that the HVAC contractor gave me was that he stated you usually don't see it in a house, because the air is reletively clean. But look at the ducts in places like supermarkets with dropped ceilings and ceiling registers and you will begin to notice the stains.

Hey Chad, How's things going? To tell you the truth, I'm getting a bit gun shy. It seems everything I'm inspecting is crap covered over. I'd like to do an inspection and have the house sell. This house is a real dog. Don't get me wrong, I'd buy it in a flash... for the right price. In my opinion, It was originally a large garage that someone put a second story on, added illegal sewer, maybe water too. It is buried at the end of a dead end, in the forest. I doubt if any of the work, inclding the current renevation is legal. It is nothing but bandaids, covered with sheetrock, and EIFS... There are wires hanging all over the place. The burnt... actually melted insulation is not a double tap. Notice the 30 amp breaker... it's supplying power to a whirlppol bathtub. By the way, the selling price is $595k

I'm just finishing up a complete gut and reconstruction of a hi-rise condo in Manhattan. I installed central air into the apartment. Within a few weeks, similar staining was visible around numerous ducts. Especially in areas where I hand alot of dusty work going on. The HVAC contractor explained that it was simply dust and dirt in the air. He actually stated that it showed him that his system was working. Something to do with the air currents picking up the dirt in the air. He assured me once we were finished with the "dirty"work, and cleaned it up, the problem would disappear. We did, it has and he was right.

Thanks

Jim, Thank you for your support. I did not let you down. Code Check/Electrical, page 10, figs. 24 & 25 addresses the subject. There are NEC enclosure/clearence specifications. It also states the AHJ may accept otherwise. [] Mike, I think this is what you had mentioned. I did an inspection this past Saturday for a client that backed out of a previous house due to my inspection findings. It was a house that I was challanged on, and was reinspected by the seller's HI. I stood by my report and prevailed. I believe I mentioned it a few threads back. They then recommended me to a friend of theirs and he backed out of his deal as a result of my findings. He wasn't happy about previous termite treatments and rotted wood, etc. I began to wonder if I was being overzealous, but to tell you the truth, I can't think of anything that I included that my clients didn't have the right to know. This new prospective house... shack converted to house, is located on a very unusal lot. At the top on a ravine, at the dead end of a very wooded block that will never (probably never) be built on. A spot like this is very unusual for NYC (even Staten Island), and anybody could fall in love with it. I think my client is blinded by this, and that's ok with me. The house itself has been... not finished yet... renovated, by a builder that assembled a hodge-podge of bandaids, to a house that also appears to be a collection of ancient, illegal add ons. I feel that if my client is aware of how much work the place needs, and how shoddy of a job the "builder" is doing, I did my job and he can decide whatever floats his boat. He says he loves it enough to fix up little by little as time goes by. I don't blame him, I would do the same.

Hi Mike, I could have sworn I read about "same enclosure", but it seems I'm wrong. When you say clearences, do you mean the max. distances from the meter to the main breaker?

I thought I read in Doug Hanson's book that locating the gas meter in the same enclosure was wrong, but I just looked and can't find it there. I guess I'm wrong... I'm glad I mentioned it. Thanks Jim

I know NEC states Gas meter and electric service in the same enclosure is taboo, the "builder" states local utilities have accepted it... and an electrician I spoke to says it's done quite often and accepted. And, double neutral taps in serice panel. Same electrician states this is also a common practice... with same gauge wire. I personally don't like either. This electrician, although unlicensed, he is a union electrician and I've seen his work and he is good. Image Insert: 113.02 KB The insulation on the third neutral from the bottom is also burnt. Image Insert: 67.28 KB Do I include it?

So Lee, I think you have answered your own question. perhaps it is time for new... properly installed windows and doors. This can be a costly investment, but I don't see how you can avoid it. But first, You may want to try contacting the manufacturer, there is a possibility that there are some missing pieces/filler tracks or perhaps the sashes themselves are the wrong size for the frames. Also, there is usually weather stripping (it may look like short hairs embedded in a plastic strip), which slips into a thin groove. They should be in the space where the windows/doors overlap and/or where the sash fits into the frame. Like I stated, call the mfgr. and see what they have to say. By the way, if a slider is installed inside out, the weatherstripping will be rendered useless. If you can see it, it's wrong. If you can't lock the windows, it's usually wrong. If you should decide to replace them, remember that you get what you pay for. So get a decent window and make sure you have it installed properly.

Assuming that you have Insulated Glass Units, are they "foggy/icing" on the inside (between the lites of glass) or are they foggy on the outside of the unit (interior or exterior) ? Is this phenomenon happening to all of the units or just on or two? When they dry up, is there water remaining inside the I.G.U.? You need to determine this in order to figure out if it's bad seals or high humidity in the house.

There is a company named Grailcoat. They manufacture synthetic stucco. It is water repelant yet breathes. It can be applied in many ways. There are also silicone based products that are water repelant. They dry clear, although they will darken the finish.

I put together a short list. If you pay attention to the items on it, you will probably do a better inspection than most. Even without a meter, if you follow the short list, you will be doing a worthy, no extra charge inspection without doing anything more than eye balling your surroundings as you do the rest of your inspection. If the short inspection merits a more indepth inspection, then the meters come out. If you are going to scan it, you will need something like a Tramex. If you find moisture @ the windows, pin probe it and "plot" the wet/damaged area. You can possibly trace the origin of the problem this way. There are also minimally intrusive tools that can help you determine the extent of substrate damage. By the time I consider extreme intrusive measures. It is usually to expose the damage that I have already found. When inspecting EIFS, just like any other exterior cladding; flashing, penetrations, etc., are a prime concern. EIFS Short List. No Horizontal Surfaces Minimum 6/12 pitch 1/2" - 3/4" Expansion Joint around all windows & doors, etc. Adhering to clean basecoat. Condition of joints/caulking All penetrations sealed Wood structures - Expansion joint @ each floor 8" clearance to soil/grade- no buried EIFS Proper flashing 2" clearance to roof/valleys/stairs/structures, etc. Minimum 4" cap @ parapet tops “Dimplesâ€

Hi Guys, I've been away for a while, crazy busy at work and studying for an upcoming licensing/certification test with NYSDEC. You should be able to see a drainage starter track that will allow the system to drain. Even if its a "drainable" system, if there is no place for the water to exit, it will not work. Image Insert: 45.64 KB Image Insert: 31.41 KB The j track starter is for a drainage system using corregated styrofoam. There is also an "L" type starter track that is used with a weepable membrane that is installed prior to the foam board. There is alot more to inspecting EIFS than can be posted. If you are interested, check out Exterior Design Institute. http://www.exterior-design-inst.com/training.html Regardless of if it is a drainable or barrier system, if it is not installed properly... and most residential systems are not, it will not function properly and as Chad stated, can be your worst nightmare. I have more things regarding EIFS that I would love to post, including a few movies regarding the installation, I just cannot figure out how to do it.

I do call it as I see it, that's the TIJ in me... that's the me in me. I find myself deciding, "is it"? or "isn't it"? on many occaisions. I was having a problem about saying it's ok, and I'm getting that you wouldn't say that either. I also notice you say "probably contains asbestos". Do you think I should back off one notch? On Staten Island, the last time I had an abatement done was about five years ago. It was $250 just for the guy to show up.

I also carry... and use quite often; A lighted magnifying glass, my favorite being one that is a small flashlight (cost about $10) A strap on headlight, it looks wherever I do and frees up my hands to write notes or a tool. A $5 compass (looks like a gumball) that I pin on my shirt, anytime I want to know a direction I just look down.