hausdok

Yes, Ours is simply "Home Inspection" means a professional examination of the current condition of a home. We did not define the word inspect beyond that and there is no requirement to write anything beyond what's specifically required. Each section of the SOP states specifically what the inspector is required to describe or record or report. Our only written requirements involve describing certain elements of the structure and it's electro-mechanical systems, recording what those elements are and then reporting on any deficiencies noted and recording any recommendations made to the client. There is no requirement to report that a satisfactorily functioning item is functioning satisfactorily. If the inspector has delivered a report that complies with the SOP the report is evidence that the inspection was performed. One doesn't need to state: "Condition - satisfactory." We expect that if it weren't satisfactory the inspector would report it; after all, that's the whole point of requiring mandatory training and testing and licensing and it's the whole point of the inspector being there. Here's the rub; every SOP states that there is nothing in that SOP to prohibit an inspector from going above and beyond that SOP if the inspector wants to, and that above and beyond can include the report writing process. If an inspector was educated by an instructor who spent a large amount of time teaching the inspector how to cover his or her ass and how to write stuff to cover his or her ass, then the report becomes an overweight troll packed with page after page of CYA pablum. Now, if the inspector reports ONLY what's required by the SOP, he or she might find that the client ends up asking questions like, "Well, was the roof OK," because the inspector didn't specifically state in the report, "The roof was OK." Since the client asks the question, the inspector now thinks he needs to add it - but he doesn't, not if he's properly managing the client's expectations. If every time a client asks an inspector a question about something in the report, the inspector uses that question as a basis to create an additional piece of information, in order to cover his ass and avoid that question in the future, the report grows and grows until it morphs into a plumbed up turkey. The client needs to know up-front that you won't be reporting on stuff that works and which you are not concerned about. The client needs to know that if you see some cracks in the drywall that in your mind are minor cosmetic issues and aren't a structural issue that you won't be reporting them as a deficiency because the client has hired you to report on the big picture stuff that's going to cost him or her a lot of money - not on fair wear and tear stuff that he or she can clearly see and doesn't need to hire you to find. We've dug our own hole with this stuff. We've allowed ourselves to be sued over and over again for alleged negligence because we've allowed some folks in this business to become considered "expert witnesses" who are the biggest proliferators of this idea that if you didn't report that it's OK you must not have inspected it. That's our fault for not challenging this kind of stuff sooner. If you're not managing the client's expectations of what the report will look like, and you're letting the client's unrealistic expectations dictate what's going to be in the report, you're only creating more work for yourself. If you talk to the folks that authored that SOP you might discover that their intent was very similar but that lots of folks have misinterpreted what their intent was because it doesn't fit the way those folks had been taught to write a report and doesn't provide the unneccessary stuff that folks have dreamed up for CYA. Want to figure out what you need in your report? Take a completed report down to your attorney along with a copy of the SOP and ask him or her to edit your report to create a sample for you that's based on what's required in your state's SOP. I bet it comes back looking like the new Drew Cary versus the old. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

She probably won't be back. She looks like a link dropper. Since it appears that she tried to contribute to the conversation, lets see if she returns to answer by tomorrow or if she's just dropped her link, in which case we can delete the link. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

I'll bet - no, I know it's waay longer than most inspectors want to spend and that's fine by me. It's not a competition to see who can take the most time or the least time to complete an inspection, or about me or my personal likes or dislikes, it's a thread about complying with SOP's. I was trying to show you that even when a regulating body tries to make it as simple as possible on the inspector that the inspector can misinterpret those requirements and add way above and beyond what's necessary to be in compliance. For example, here's the structural section of our state's SOP. Note that in our system Describe means that you must write it down in your report and that inspect means that you must look at it but don't have to write anything down. Report and refer also must be in writing, but unless you find something that needs to be reported and referred there isn't any need to write anything down. WAC 308-408C-070 - Structure. An inspection of the structure will include the visible foundation; floor framing; roof framing and decking; other support and substructure/superstructure components; stairs; ventilation (when applicable); and exposed concrete slabs in garages and habitable areas. (1) The inspector will: • Describe the type of building materials comprising the major structural components. • Enter and traverse attics and subfloor crawlspaces. • Inspect (a) The condition and serviceability of visible, exposed foundations and grade slabs, walls, posts, piers, beams, joists, trusses, subfloors, chimney foundations, stairs and the visible roof structure and attic components where readily and safely accessible. (b) Subfloor crawlspaces and basements for indications of flooding and moisture penetration. • Probe a representative number of structural components where deterioration is suspected or where clear indications of possible deterioration exist. Probing is not required when probing will damage any finished surface or where no deterioration is suspected. • Describe any deficiencies of these systems or components. • Report all wood rot and pest-conducive conditions discovered. • Refer all issues that are suspected to be insect related to a licensed structural pest inspector (SPI) or pest control operator (PCO) for follow up. (2) The inspector is not required to: • Enter (a) Subfloor crawlspaces that require excavation or have an access opening less than eighteen inches by twenty-four inches or headroom less than eighteen inches beneath floor joists and twelve inches beneath girders (beams). (b) Any areas that are not readily accessible due to obstructions, inadequate clearances or have conditions which, in the inspector's opinion, are hazardous to the health and safety of the inspector or will cause damage to components of the home. • Move stored items or debris or perform excavation to gain access. Now, here's the structural section from the report I described above. I've underlined all that was required to be in compliance with the SOP. Structure Type: Two Story with crawl space Foundation wall: Type: Concrete (solid) Conditions: Overall condition - appears serviceable; No apparent structural defects noted at the time of the inspection. Anchor bolts/strapping was installed on the foundation wall, holding down the sill plate to the foundation wall. - Form ties noted on the garage exterior wall - remove as needed Floor Support: Type: Wood Joists - 2 x 10's Sub-Flooring: OSB (Oriented Strand Board) Conditions: Overall conditions - appears serviceable. No significant problems noted at the time of the inspection. Beam/Girders: Type/Size: Solid/Built-up: 4 x 10's or 4 by 12's. Condition: Overall condition - appears serviceable. Posts/Columns: Type/Size: Solid/Built-up; 4 x 4's, 4 x 6's Condition: Appears Serviceable - Overall condition. With notable exceptions/concerns - No footing under the 4x post - 4 x 4 post located under the stairs, is missing the footing (see photo). Recommend adding the proper footing and provide proper bearing support. Footing/Piers: Type/Material(s): Concrete - Pads (cast-in-place) Conditions: Appears Serviceable - Overall conditions. With the notable exception(s)/concerns above - Post section. Bearing Walls: Type/Conditions: 2X6 Construction; Overall Condition-Appears Serviceable. Limited access/inspection;these areas may not be completely visible or accessible, verification of these components is limited. Roof Framing: Type: Engineered trusses; 2X4-Top Chord Sheathing: OSB (Oriented Strand Board) Conditions: Overall Condition - Appears Serviceable. No visible defects or concerns noted at the time of the inspection. Roofs are constructed either with rafters (conventional stick-framed), engineered trusses(most common for newer construction), open beams or some combination of these types and styles. Stick-framed roofs are usually made with dimensional lumber (2 X material), but may also use composite/engineered materials. Stick-framed is still used in many cases because it is the most flexible roof framing system. This is often found in complicated roofing systems, vaulted ceiling and low pitched roofing. Trusses (engineered) are usually of small Wood members (usually 2X3, 2X4's or 2X6's) jointed in the factory to make a long structural assembly. Trusses can span much farther than stick-framed roofs, leaving large open areas below them or permitting partition walls to be located without consideration of the roof structure above. Trusses go up quickly, usually resulting in a cost saving over stick-framed roofs on simple shaped building. Trusses are designed to use the minimal amount of lumber, span longer distances and provide adequate support to the roof covering. Altering,modifying or damage to the trusses will usually result in inadequately supported framing - this is common to find when new skylights, chimneys or pull-down ladders have been installed in the roof framing. Correcting/repairing trusses should always to done by a qualified, licensed contractor. It is recommended that a truss engineer, or truss designer/manufacturer, evaluate and determine the best repair solution for the truss repair. Basements (lower levels-which are below grade-level) can come in several forms; the completely finished, the completely unfinished and any form in between. The finished basement is considered livable space; finished walls/ceiling(drywall), floor coverings (carpet, vinyl, tile, laminated materials, etc.), mechanical systems (heat, plumbing, outlets/fixtures, etc.). The unfinished basement may be in the same condition as when the house was built-open walls, framing, exposed plumbing, wiring, heating systems, exposed concrete walls and flooring. Finished basement may be difficult completely inspect due to the wall, ceilings and floor coverings. The inspection is usually based on how the basement was finished, Many homeowners will finish the basement themselves-whether they're qualified or not. Items to be aware of will be recent repairs, patching or painting; newer carpet or floor covering-were these items installed to cover problems? Were electrical outlets/receptacles/fixtures installed properly in the walls and ceilings-the locations installed, the quantify and are they safe? Recommend making inquiries with the Seller?owner about any recent finish work in the basement. Unfinished (or partially finished) basements are a little easier to inspect-most of the components are exposed and are more readily accessible e for inspection. It maybe easier to inspect the foundation walls for cracks and water entry, the floor for water staining; improper wiring or plumbing and heating systems The main restriction in basements in the amount of storage and personal belongings that may be present during the inspection. Shelving, benches and storage may not allow a complete inspection of the outer walls, floor or framing in some cases. The conditions, visible in the basement, may be quite different when the house is vacant. This company recommends a follow-up inspection of the basement if concerns/problems are present (and become visible) after the basement has been cleared of belongings. In my opinion, he would have been in compliance with simply: Foundation wall: Concrete (solid) Floor Support: Wood Joists - 2 x 10's Sub-Flooring: OSB (Oriented Strand Board) Beam/Girders: Solid 4 x 10's Posts/Columns: Solid 4 x 4's Footing/Piers: Concrete - Pads (cast-in-place) Bearing Walls: 2X6 Construction Roof Framing: 2X4 -Top Chord Sheathing: OSB (Oriented Strand Board) Conditions: A 4 x 4 post located under the stairs, is missing the footing (see photo). Add a footing under that post to provide proper bearing support. The three pages it took to say all of this are below. This looks like one of those drop down systems that populates a bunch of boxes on a page. I know that I can probably type a description of the structure in about the same time that it takes this guy to scroll and click to choose his boxes; and I'm pretty certain that the description will be easier to read and will take up less space in a report than this one. Click to Enlarge 118.8 KB Click to Enlarge 96.05 KB Click to Enlarge 98.75 KB The guy has taken a very simple and straightforward requirement and either misinterpreted it or simply decided that the SOP wasn't adequate for reporting purposes or had an overwhelming desire to plump up his report. He's turned what could have been a very short and easily-understood section of the report into a morass of words that even I found daunting. Perhaps if the OP were to go back and study his state's SOP again he might find that it's a whole lot simpler to comply with than he thinks. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Well, I'm on a state board, I authored an SOP and I write very anal narrative type reports, so I guess I'm one of those dastardly guys that doesn't get it. We have what we think is a decent SOP. The amount of stuff that we require an inspector to inspect is what we felt was necessary to perform an adequate inspection. There are requirements for minimal description of the home but there aren't any requirement to document that every little thing that an inspector has looked at is functional. They're only required to document deficiencies and we were mandated by the legislature to report and comment on a few health and safety items. Board members don't review inspector's reports when there is a complaint and we don't audit reports; DOL has an investigator that follows up on complaints and the manager does any audits. Our position was that we inspectors are not there to find and report on the serviceable stuff - we're there to find and report on the non-serviceable/deficient stuff and that an inspector has enough to do in order to do that and doesn't need to be complicating the report by reporting mountains of unnecessary stuff. As long as an inspector follows the SOP and documents those components that he or she is required to document, which really is very easy to do, the report will show that the home was completely inspected. It's amazing though, the lengths that some inspector will go to clutter up reports with unnecessary stuff. The other day I did a first year inspection on a home and the client shared the initial inspection report with me. It was about 41 pages long but when I extracted all of the stuff that the guys said was wrong or deficient and pasted them to a separate piece of paper, they took up about a page and a half. There was practically a dissertation about every little aspect of the home. Not dissertations on things that are wrong though; this guy was bulking up the report with mountains of fluff that had nothing to do with deficiencies. The more of the report I read, the more I found myself becoming more and more agitated - frustrated really - with the amount of unnecessary stuff I had to wade through to find the nitty gritty. We don't require him to put all of that crap in his report but he apparently feels that it's needed. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

The front of a building with a hard on? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

It's too bad they didn't properly flash those penetrations and properly detail that vertical transition joint as well. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Did you look at the schematic on the door to the left? Click to Enlarge 16.15 KB ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Is it a steam or hot water system? Aren't tankless coils fairly commonplace in New England? In the summer, wouldn't one simply shut down the hot water loop to the radiators or turn off the radiators at their base and let the boiler fire only for hot water? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

This just in from Jim Simmons (User name Mr. Electric): First time I have seen a panel in a mobile home (1972 vintage) that evidently never had a ground bar installed at the factory (note neutrals and grounds together)! Also had no messenger on the overhead feeder. Gave him a bid to upgrade it. Jim P. Simmons Mr. Electric Click to Enlarge 58.16 KB Click to Enlarge 43.05 KB Click to Enlarge 54.15 KB Click to Enlarge 57.17 KB Click to Enlarge 87.18 KB THANKS JIM!!! ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

A lot of the builders around here have showrooms in the model home. When I go into a new development, I usually stop into the showroom to look at the samples and the literature there. They often state right there what the products being used on the home are. If I don't have that opportunity and a builder's rep is hanging around, I ask. When I don't know, I just call it Hardi, because I've yet to see a single piece of the Certainteed product used here. In this case, there was a big pile of trash on the street in front (Don't know why the hell they weren't using a dumpster) and the plastic wrapper used by JH was on the pile. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

I agree, they aren't much more than a huge toaster with a blower attached. They'll last as long as an electrician can get replacement parts; and, since those replaceable parts are pretty much all stock off-the-shelf electrical components that can be a long time before parts are no longer made or in stock. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Just finished formatting it so it would fit on less paper and sent it to you. Hope it's something like what you're looking for. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

You don't lose credibility when you recommend something be done to the highest standard. The code is the lowest possible legal standard. If a builder wants to admit to the buyer that he or she builds to the lowest possible quality standard, that's the builder's business, but I won't allow myself to be drawn into that trap. It's not my credibility with builder's I'm concerned about; it's my credibility with the client. I've had a builder who relied on the lowest possible legal standard try to sue me for recommending that something be done to the best available standard. He didn't get anywhere. If something that's done to the lowest possible standard - the siding in this case is a good case - goes bad, and you'd blessed it, where is your credibility going to be with the buyer? Shoot me an email. OT - OF!!! M.

Robert, This reminds me; you'd asked for some boilerplate a while back. I don't really have any. I have however written about this on occassion in some reports. I'll so a word search for "sump pump" and see what I can come up with. In the meantime, I'm emailing you an illustrated article that I found on the Popular Mechanics site that I think you'll find useful. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi Robert, I've seen a few of those. Most of the time they are in a nasty hole dug in the ground that's lined with plywood or something else that's eventually going to cave in, and they usually don't have anti-backflow valves on them and are pretty jack legged. I saw one though that was nicely placed at the bottom of a crib built from CMU's stacked in a circle and mortared up. The pump was solidly stabilized by being clamped to a piece of rebar that spanned the well and the whole arrangement had been wrapped with geo-textile fabric and was surrounded by a 1ft. thick layer of quarter stone that was also wrapped with GT fabric. The cable feeding it went below grade in conduit and was GFCI protected and they had a nice pre-cast reinforced concrete lid on the thing with rebar handles cast into it. It was too heavy for a kid to lift but with a little effort I was able to swing it out of the way to inspect it without throwing my back out. Unless you can see it and know how it's been installed, just say that it's inaccessible for inspection and is excluded from the scope of the inspection per WAC 308-408C-030(1)(12) and WAC 308-408C-100(2)(b)(ii). ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Well, According to the site History of the Industry's Brands located at http://www.johnmills.net/work/history.html Square D production resumed as Sun Dial Manufacturing then stopped in the 1980s. Resumed from what I don't know. I've read through every brand on the site; and, unless I've missed it, I don't see Square D listed anywhere else. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Brandon, why would you do that? I don't worry about it beyond the point where I make my recommendation. Those guides and their published instructions are like the NFPA recommendation for all buyers to have a Level II inspection done of any zero-clearance fireplace flue when they are purchasing a home. It's a great recommendation issued by someone who is an authority on the subject matter and it has built in credibility and protection for home inspectors against liability just by virtue of it's source and specificity. Why mess with that? They've published a great reference that home inspectors can utilize. It offers clear illustrations and explanations and leaves little doubt in a client's mind about what's the best way to install the product. I always use best practices when I make recommendations; if the seller wants to do less, and the buyer is willing to accept it, I don't care. By making recommendations based on best practices, I know that I'm doing my best by the client. If I recommend less then best practice and it turns into a disaster, I've just placed myself squarely in the cross hairs - that's not where I like to be. If a seller wants to be a weasel and try and work his or her way around these recommendations by whining to the code guys, and the code guys and maybe a telephone answerer at the manufacturer want to waffle, I don't care - I'm still recommending best practices. How the builder and buyer work it out after the inspection is the buyer's business, not mine: I've done what I got paid to do - inspected the home and written a report that uses the best recommendations I can find, and done it to the best of my ability without pulling any punches. Why mess with that? So, if you do call them and get some functionary on the phone, do me a favor, keep the response to yourself because I don't want to know about any waffler's telephone response until JH's legal department has blessed off on that response and said that it was OK for that person to say (which I bet they'd never do). Until JH publishes, for public sonsumption, something that says that their own best practices guides aren't how they interpret their own instructions to be followed, we home inspectors, for our own good, should follow those guides to the letter. That's my not-so-humble opinion and I'm sticking to it. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

In the James Hardie Hz10 Best Practices Installation Guide (I've underlined area for emphasis.) on Page 19 under General Installation Requirements - Penetrations, the guide shows specifically how penetrations should be detailed and states (I've underlined some areas for emphasis): "For penetrations in the building envelope such as hose bibs and holes 1-1/2" diameter or larger, such as dryer vents, a block of Hardie Trim 5/4, 4/4 boards should be installed around the point of penetration. To install a block around an existing vent pipe, it may be necessary to cut the block into two pieces. In this case, weather/cut the trim to fit it into place. Install flashings over the top of the trim block. Penetrations through a building envelope are made to accommodate needs such as hose bibs, dryer and furnace vents, electrical conduit, etc. It is important to restore the weather resistant barrier of the home after cutting a hole for the penetration." On page 20, the guide shows specifically how the combination intake/exhaust vent for a direct vent fireplace should be installed and states: "HOT AIR VENTS (Dryer, Stove, Furnace, Heater, Etc.) Any vent piping is required to have blocking and flashing at the penetration. A block of Hardie Trim 5/4, 4/4 boards should be installed around the point of penetration. The blocking should extend 3-4" along the wall from the edge of the vent. To install a block around an existing vent, it may be necessary to cut several blocks, with weather-cuts on each piece. Flashing must be installed over the top of the trim block." Also on page 20 it shows specifically how lights and electrical outlets should be installed and states: "LIGHTS AND ELECTRICAL OUTLETS Lights and electrical boxes should have the same flashing and blocking as other large penetrations such as vents. Many lights utilize square electrical boxes. Blocking a square object should still incorporate the best practices of an angled weather cut." Jim, I've always thought that was JH's way of throwing a bone to builders since the previous instructions had specified a minimum of 2-inches of clearance. I think it's their clumsy way of saying that they'd prefer two inches of clearance but won't bitch as long as there is at least an inch. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

In that example it was; in this example, it was not. Click to Enlarge 46.97 KB It really doesn't matter when the concrete is placed. When they end up with that kind of a situation the builder should step up and remedy it. The most frustrating thing about yesterday's house is that HP has been used around here for over twenty years. Installers around here should know better than anyone how to install it correctly; yet I just keep finding more and more of this stuff. If I hadn't stood there and watched that contractor installing that wrap with a reverse lap, I would have felt comfortable telling the client that once the penetrations were done correctly the product would perform well. As it is, I told him it's a crapshoot, one he doesn't want to lose. He'll have to take it from here. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi David, Yep, that's exactly what I'm saying and re. the penetrations and clearances I can give you some examples. JH wants blocking and then head flashings integrated into the wall system with a 1/4-inch gap above the flashings on everything that's larger than 1-1/2 inches that penetrates their product. So,.... This is right Click to Enlarge 24.69 KB This is not Click to Enlarge 36.03 KB This is right Click to Enlarge 53.54 KB This is not Click to Enlarge 26.89 KB This is right Click to Enlarge 46.22 KB This is not Click to Enlarge 29.69 KB JH doesn't want you securing the deck ledger to the house by trapping their product behind the ledger; so... This is right Click to Enlarge 41.4 KB or this Click to Enlarge 47.62 KB but not this Click to Enlarge 37.86 KB JH doesn't like to see concrete placed against their product or their product applied down to concrete; so,..... this is kewl Click to Enlarge 37.62 KB or this Click to Enlarge 44.13 KB but this is not... Click to Enlarge 48.2 KB JH wants proper kickout flashings and wants gutters to end 1-inch from sidewalls; so,.... This Click to Enlarge 33.95 KB not this... Click to Enlarge 66.51 KB ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Did the house below yesterday. It was all buttoned up and the cliient's walk through with the builder is today. The siding contactor was installing the HardiPlank and cedar shingles next door. As I watched, they started applying wrap and by the time I was done had covered that wall. I discovered that they'd broken a whole lot of HardiPlank installation rules for penetrations over 1-1/2 inches. This installer just loves to caulk everything. The client wanted to know whether just cutting in flashings would keep things dry. What do you suppose I told him? Click to Enlarge 86.2 KB Click to Enlarge 22.39 KB Click to Enlarge 22.64 KB Click to Enlarge 43.89 KB ONE TEAM -ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

I'd simply call it a Fiberglass-Clad - thus the FC in the code - door. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Oh, You just reminded me of a story Andy Lally - an inspector down near Olympia years ago - told me. It seems Andy went out to a new home and discovered that there wasn't any air return on the second floor. He reported it and the client asked him to come back and reinspect after it was corrected. So, the call comes in, Andy goes back to the house, walks inside and up the stairs to look at what they've done, and, sure enough, there's a spanking new return at the ceiling in the upstairs hallway. So, Andy was just about to look away when something caught his eye; a sort of reflection from up inside the return intake grill. What the?.... He pulled out a long screwdriver, reaches up, pushes it through the grill and discovers that there wasn't any opening - they'd painted the ceiling black behind the grill! If it had been me, I would have felt like I could never trust the builder after that and I would have walked, but it was so long ago that he told me the story, at least twelve years, that I can't remember anymore what the buyer did after that. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

They were sliding the heavy bundles over the surface as they went up. OT - OF!!! Mike

Hi David, Those aren't zinc strips; they are the raised bottom portion of the vent that directs the air up and over the ridge. See the drainage slots in them? Without that baffle, wind is able to push rain into ridge vents. The baffle causes wind moving over the ridge to form a low pressure area just above that pulls air up along the underside of the roof from the eaves. http://www.airvent.com/pdf/installation ... Detail.pdf ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike