John Dirks Jr

I see bedroom listing discrepancies frequently. They're always trying to include that basement room which has no qualifying egress as a bedroom.

Avoiding windows 8 was part of my game plan. My old XP machine is a Dell Vostro. My current windows 7 machine is an HP. I don't like the HP keyboard too much but everything else is ok. The squared off HP keys cause me to mis-type too frequently. I like the Dell keyboards better with their tapered key edges. They are more forgiving on fumbling fingers like mine. Dell will be my next buy.

Contemplating the availability of windows 7 machine in the future. That's kinda the reason I might move on one now. I'm not too worried about program or data backup. I just want the ability to move forward seamlessly in the event of a hardware failure, physical damage, loss --- stuff like that.

I have a windows 7 machine that's working we'll with all the software I need for business. My old XP machine I have for backup is beginning to really struggle. I can get another new windows 7 machine for under $400. Do you think it's a good idea to get one now and set it up as a backup with all the software I currently use? I like all the programs I currently have and don't anticipate making any big changes.

Agreed. Gotta have the flange at the correct height and securely fastened to the floor structure. You can shim the toilet if the floor is not flat but the flange needs to be right first.

Its clear you have it figured out. I mean the general idea of how specific contractors are not competent. But you are the exception and your clients don't understand it. Whether you think it will solve the problem or not, the correct call is for repair by a qualified plumber. Seriously though, we all understand you but you are the one who has to put the recommendation in writing.

We are way to busy doing so many other things to mess with attempting comprehensive chimney inspections. I recommend Level II on every wood burning masonry unit. Even if it has s stove or other insert installed. It's still a masonry constructed wood burning unit. It should have a Level II when the ownership transfers, just as you mention. You never know if someone is going to remove the insert and toss logs back into the firebox.

A Level II took place at a recent inspection I did. The fee for the inspection was $199 which included a sweep prior to the inspection. The estimate to fix problems found during the inspection was $7500.

Considering some of the messed up crap I've had the joy of inspecting lately, it's hard to believe I would ever have consideration for a seller. In my opinion, the moment you decide to have consideration for a seller is the moment you begin to deny the very things the buyer is paying you for. The bigger picture is, this gig has nothing to do with consideration for anyone. It has to do with finding stuff that needs to be fixed and reporting it. Nothing more and nothing less. If an inspector chooses to be less picky than fine. But to do it out of consideration for the other side is something I would never do. If anyone wants to call me a deal killer, I'll wear the badge with honor. It's all in writing, right there in the report. So bring it on!

Water damage from failed crown can cause mortar deterioration and thus result in bowing while the footer is still unaffected.

The chimney structure should be self supporting on its own footer. I don't think brick ties apply to the chimney structure. If the chimney is moving away from the wall I think its footer is shifting or settling.

Marc's description is exactly the way mine was intended to be. However, for lack of all the correct parts, we rigged it direct drive with no ability to disengage.

Speaking of 2x4 go carts, I made one. I didn't have all the right parts to make a functional clutch but I had the string connected to the wooden gas pedal for the the throttle and rope steering. An over anxious older kid in the neighborhood wanted badly to see it all in action. So we found a belt that went between the little B&S engine pulley to the wheel pulley. It was tight with no ability to clutch it. He push started me from the top of a hill and off I went. With no way to stop I got speed wobbles after about 50 yards, took a sharp right over the curb and did an end over flip into a ditch. Amazingly I was unharmed but the cart did not fair as well. Busted front axle and cracked cooling fins on the cylinder head. I remember him saying, "Sorry I didn't know you wouldn't be able to stop Johnny" Some things you never forget.

I have never delivered a report on site and I never will. I think its an especially bad idea for inspectors that are new to this gig.

Well thanks Les. But members like you got me on that path so consider it an extension of yourselves. When given time to think I usually do ok but my hyper active nature sometimes makes additional challanges for me. It probably helps me in ways that I don't recognize though.

Don't market to RE's. Make the statement right on the front page of your site that you don't market to RE's to avoid the inevitable conflict of interest. There's a fairly good segment of the population who will understand that message and call you for hitting that point. Make your website effective in search engines by optimizing it to relative search terms. Website all the way. Make it totally in your control and never be owned by anybody. Anyone who makes you will eventually break you.

In that case, I guess I should be referring to my furnace as power vented.

"Direct vent" is associated with appliances that get all their combustion and dilution air from the exterior. Water heaters are fan assisted, or sometimes called power vented. I use "power vented", as folks understand it quickly. I have a direct vent furnace that pulls combustion air from the interior. Wait, are you saying that in order for it to be called direct vent, it must pull combustion air from the exterior?

Just to pick on terminology a bit. When you say fan assisted NG water heater, shouldn't it more accurately be called a direct vent water heater. To say assisted implies that it relies on other methods as well such as natural drafting in addition to the fan assistance. While there are fan assisted natural draft furnaces, water heaters are either direct vent or natural draft. At least I've never seen a fan assisted natural draft water heater. For the record, I'm frequently less than accurate on my terminology and appreciate it when it gets pointed out.

On second thought, the size of the pulley won't change the effort required. Not with a single pulley. In order for there to be a change in required effort you would need two or more pulleys of differing sizes to make a ratio change. Do I have this correct? However, I think the radius of a larger pulley reduces the stress on the rope.

32' of 3/8" poly braid from Lowes. $4 clothesline pulley from Walmart. The larger pulley surely makes retraction easier. It requires less friction from grip on the rope as the top section slides down. Less wear on the gloves too. Download Attachment: P1340109.JPG 1683.68 KB Download Attachment: P1340110.JPG 1579.4 KB Download Attachment: P1340111.JPG 1594.29 KB

It looks like they're trying to include the attic space within the conditioned building envelope. In a case like this I think un-faced batts would be the correct choice. With vapor retarded facing down it will trap moisture from roof leaks or condensation from heat loss against the underside of the roof decking. Any attempt to include the attic within the conditioned envelope would include blocking attic ventilation which you mentioned has been done. But if the gable vents are still open then the insulation between the rafters is pointless.

Maybe we could all get together for some fun competition

My next question was how does one bounce over the eave overhang and stay at the correct angle. Looks like Kurt already answered that. You can't. Also, what about aluminum siding? Surely plenty of potential to dent that up. I think I'll remain a rope guy.

Do you mean you actually bounce back off the eave momentarily then shove the upper section up manually while the ladder is not touching the eave?