John Dirks Jr

No offense taken at all. The opinions got me thinking and plans have changed. I can tell you this; for her and I to come to a conclusion that we both agree upon, it's a big thing. Now, would I tell her I'm coming here to ask for opinions?.....hell no. I appreciate the support and opinions I get here but on my home front they remain incognito. Otherwise, she would nail me as being influenced by others every time we have a disagreement. We're moving slowly forward. []

In a new home inspection the other day, the lighting and fan switches were on the outside of the bathroom wall. This was not a big bathroom. There was a shower about 4 or 5' directly across from the door. I suspect the switch was on the outside of the bathroom due to the shower being so close to the door. Is there a specific distance the switches are supposed to be away from the shower or tub?

How long for the etching effect? This thing was not even a year old.

I was showing a client how to remove the glass in the gas fireplace for cleaning. We decided since it was already out, might as well clean it before putting it back. He used Windex which quickly got most of the haze off. However, there was a very stubborn whitish staining that Windex would not take off. Is there a specific type of cleaner that will get the combustion product stains off the glass easier?

Thanks for all the input everyone. The report went out last night at about 7pm. It included concerns specific to water intrusion potential at the balcony to house junction. I also showed the issue to the client onsite at the inspection and showed her where to look for water stains that might show up in the ceiling of the garage.

I don't like sloughing the conclusion like that either but sometimes it's the best one can reasonably do. Too high for ladder work, for me anyway. My idea was to do exactly as you suggested by opening the window. I got within 5 feet by navigating through the upper trusses in the attic. The last 5 feet would have required too much disturbance of loose fill insulation to make it worth it for me. Except for lack of weather strip at the hatch, the rest of the insulation looked too good for me to be the first one mucking it up. Apron flashing...got it. Thanks. Click to Enlarge 52.9?KB

Well, my comment could be confusing, especially if read by someone who knows exactly how the the flashing should be. I knew what I was thinking but the words didn't come out just right. The bold part should have indicated the possibility of a 1/2 height shingle covering the flashing rather than implanting the idea that flashing beneath a full course is correct; which it certainly is not. Step flashing is not visible at the base of the dormer window structures. Normally, a step flashing is visible at this location. Its purpose is to prevent water from getting under the shingles at this junction. It's possible that a flashing detail is covered by a course of shingles but I cannot verify that in the scope of this inspection. Check with the builder to insure proper flashing detail for prevention of water intrusion at the base of the dormer windows on the roof.

I now see that the comment I wrote is poorly written that would suggest I might think that. But as I said above, that top 1/2 height shingle under the dormer could be concealing a flashing that sufficiently covers the last full course. That would prevent leaking, right?

I don't think that. I'm sure you've seen the flashing covered with a 1/2 height shingle just below the dormer. Haven't you?

Actually, it could be there. Consider they might be using that thin Grace membrane. If you count the number or courses from the gutter up to the dormer, there is is 8 full courses. The last one (9th) under the base of the dormer is only 1/2 of a shingle cut lengthwise. There could be a flashing membrane under there. That was my thinking anyway. Although, it's also certainly possible that there is not a proper flashing there. Feel free to criticize me this if you think I need it. It was writen up as follows; Step flashing is not visible at the base of the dormer window structures. Normally, a step flashing is visible at this location. Its purpose is to prevent water from getting under the shingles at this junction. It's possible that a flashing detail is covered by a course of shingles but I cannot verify that in the scope of this inspection. Check with the builder to insure proper flashing detail for prevention of water intrusion at the base of the dormer windows on the roof.

BTW, whenever you see one of these, check for bottom cord of trusses being cut. Nine times out of ten, that's what happens when they're installed. As I understand, no part of an engineered truss should be cut without an engineered plan of modification. My house is stick built so I get a pass, right?

I got one in my house. They are great in certain circumstances such as a cool evening to bring outside air in the open windows. The low setting is not too loud. One drawback is the breach in the insulation qualities of the attic. This drawback can be made worse since these things are sometimes installed in the same hallway where a thermostat is located. I addressed this in my house by building a box with a trap door over the fan unit in the attic. I then insulated the box and trap door. Additionally, I installed a cutoff switch in the attic next to the trap door. When ever the trap door is closed, the cutoff switch in the attic prevents you from turning the fan on in from the wall switch located in the hallway. I'd say the trap door stays closed at least 85% of the year. There's only limited situations where it's beneficial to use these things in my area. If it's not hot or cold, it's humidity we're trying to manage. There's only a few weeks across spring or fall months where it's worth using it.

The first three pictures are of the house I inspected. For reference, the other two are of construction under way across the street. I did not see flashing extending over the ledger/ledger joist. I can't verify that water can't get behind it and cause damage. In looking at these pictures, would you say that it's reasonable to have a concern about water getting behind the ledger? Download Attachment: P1230385.JPG 1603.11 KB Download Attachment: P1230384.JPG 1605 KB Download Attachment: P1230377.JPG 1549.55 KB These two are uncompleted units across the street. Download Attachment: P1230428.JPG 1534.23 KB Download Attachment: P1230429.JPG 1539.32 KB

I could not see the normal exposed flashing at the base of the dormer. From in the attic I saw a membrane at the bottom portion of the window. I'm still not sure if this takes care of the need for a step flashing at the base of the dormer. Do you think it's likely the membrane that is visible from the attic extends to between the shingles at the outside? Download Attachment: P1230403.JPG 1545.3 KB Download Attachment: P1230421.JPG 1614.94 KB

Yes, the attic on fire will make the house warmer for sure!

I inspected an attic like that one summer day on the Chesapeake. It was the most comfortable attic I've ever been in. No need to worry about sealing the hatch or nothing. It sure can look odd but it does the trick. The trick is to insulate the entire building envelope. This way there is no air and moisture migration between enclosed insulated and un-insulated areas.

I thought for about 2 seconds and the number 2K came to mind. Went on the read the other responses and was shocked to see how low some of them were.

Yes, and it's very common for in-slab ducts.Click to Enlarge 43.14?KB Thanks again for the quick information. The report is done and on its way with the concern listed.

Thanks Bill. To expand, do the pictures I posted make you believe that it's likely Transite? I picked at the cut portion where the damper was installed and it crumbled without too much effort.

The house is 1971 build. A portion is slab on grade. Under the slab is a 12" diameter HVAC duct that looks like a concrete based material. From it there are some smaller diameter runs. Is there a concern that this duct material contains asbestos? Download Attachment: P1230206.JPG 89.96 KB Download Attachment: P1230209.JPG 68.74 KB Download Attachment: P1230268.JPG 64.12 KB

My stab at it: It says doors must be fully open or fully closed. The reason could be that a partially open door will allow combustion air to rush in the partial opening and direct a velocity at flame/burner and cause imbalance or blow the flame out. A fully open door would allow an even influx of air which would be less likely to disturb the flame. Fully closed doors would allow the system to rely on built in design of combustion air intake. The insert can be set up for gas or wood. When set up for wood, they do not want you burning anything other than wood. If you burn wood without opening the damper, you'll find out real quick when the house fills up with smoke. With gas, you could easily be burning the gas with the damper closed and not really be aware of it until people start dropping from CO poisoning. That's my interpretation of it. I do think the label is confusing and poorly written.

I never thought to check for the reversed connection there. John, was it just luck that the thing was running and spreading the condensate on the wall at the time you were on the exterior? I might make it a new practice to ramp up the furnace and check the termination on the exterior.

Must listen to opposing views. Well rounded decisions are worthless without it.

I wouldnt want to bog down a new system with a total clone. I would copy the most important things to an external usb disc so accessing them with the new machine would be easier.

Does your significant other know you're buying yet another flashlight?