Steven Hockstein

While I agree that this forum is for home inspection professionals, what is the downside of being nice and helpful? There are plenty of inane questions that we ask each other!! The upside is that this forum becomes more well know, gets more hits, our names and opinions become more known, and we all benefit with increased exposure (and hopfully more calls for inspections!). One more point is that more hits help to sell advertising for the owners of this site that we all love (Somebody has to pay for us to use this forum)! I get more annoyed by companies that use this forum to post free ads about their products or services disguised as helpful posts!

I misunderstood what your function was. I thought you were working for the buyer as a home inspectior/construction consultant. I did not realize that you were doing insurance inspections that is supervised by the state department of insurance. Are there special inspection standards for this type of inspection or do they follow home inspector standards for your state?

Assuming that the future owner hired you, and you are involved from the start of plan review, it is the time to discuss how to improve the end product. Why do you care what the contractor wants? If your client has the information, even if they are contracted for code minimum, maybe they would be willing to pay for an upgrade. Maybe they can use your input to negotiate upgrades for free? A lot of workmanship issues are not even related to money, Just having an extra eye on the job can result in less shortcuts.

FYI- There is no radon testing requirement that I know of for private homes in NJ. Most real estate contracts for houses that I have seen include a provision for radon testing.

Or just bear in mind that short-term radon screenings, such as the ones done for real estate transactions, are a complete waste of time and a sham besides. They're designed to make everyone feel better and think that they've determined something about radon levels in the home. They're a panacea. If you're really concerned about the levels of radon in the house, do a long-term test (1 year is a good sample period) and move forward from there. - Jim Katen, Oregon If there are very high levels, you would want to know ASAP. I think a screening test for high levels is useful. Some of the highest radon level numbers I have seen were found in Western/Northern NJ. I am talking about numbers like 60 pCi/L and higher. I agree that a long term follow-up when you are in control of the house is much more useful. I disagree that a screening test is a sham (when you do it correctly).

I think hiring a good home inspector or architect is a better option. The structural engineer is limiting and will not be very helpful when it comes to other issues that may come up during the construction (electrical, plumbing, etc..). A footing inspection is not too complicated and should be within the ability of the home inspector or architect. You should find someone that can help your throughout the whole process. Perhaps even a munical inspector from another town that does not have a relationship with the town where you are having your home built. It is very different around here. Most people in our real estate market would not be happy with construction that uses code as the gauge for the quality that they expect. Code minimum works for life safety but when it comes good craftsmanship, the code officials and engineers usually don't get involved. The building contractor is looking to make a profit, especially in today's environment. A smart consumer understands the problem with relying on the contractor to look out for their best interest. One of the reasons we get hired as construction consultants is that we explain the differences beteween a code inspectior, the contractor, and a construction consultant. Getting back to the issues of the footings in the photos, the code officials around here would not allow them as shown.

I think hiring a good home inspector or architect is a better option. The structural engineer is limiting and will not be very helpful when it comes to other issues that may come up during the construction (electrical, plumbing, etc..). A footing inspection is not too complicated and should be within the ability of the home inspector or architect. You should find someone that can help your throughout the whole process. Perhaps even a munical inspector from another town that does not have a relationship with the town where you are having your home built.

The NJ UCC (Uniform Construction Code) has a radon hazard sub-code. The simple answer to your question is that a house built in 2003 was required to be set-up for easy installation of an active radon mitigation system. There should be a passive system installed. The builder may have roughed the wiring for the fan because high levels are so common in Warren County. It is not an unusual circumstance. You should get the house tested as part of the purchasing processs The following is a link to a NJ DEP Map of NJ and radon levels reported. Licensed radon testing companies are required to report the levels of all tests by zip code. The state has used the data for this map: http://www.state.nj.us/dep/rpp/radon/radonmap.htm If you need a home and radon inspection, I will be happy to help you. Good Luck!!

Easily remedied without hacking into the roof at a half dozen places. Click to Enlarge 3.33 KB http://www.airvent.com/pdf/installation ... nstall.pdf http://www.airvent.com/pdf/installation ... nstSht.pdf ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Mike- That is a great option that I was not aware of when I replaced my roof 9 years ago. I am not even sure if it was available. For now, the current conditions seem to be adequate. There is no moisture in my attic and the temperature is reduced by the fan during hot weather. I should also add that my roof sheathing is tongue and groove boards that hold up much better than plywood and OSB.

My house does not have any soffit vents because the overhang is too small. There are no ridge vents. I installed multiple gable vents and a power vent. I experimented leaving the fan on during hot days and shutting it down. There is a huge difference in attic temperature when the fan is running. I have concluded that in my own house, the power vent is helpful. I recommend soffit vents and a ridge vent where feasible.

This is a link to Andersen Windows Service and Parts page. Lots of good info here: http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/ ... 6852780873

We use removable 90 gig hard drives (Iomega REV) that automatically back-up files that were changed during the day. The files automatically backup everyday at 4:30 PM. My business partner and I take turns swapping out the back-ups and bringing them home when the office closes at 5 PM. We have the files in three places and will never lose more than a day of work. People often forget that keeping backup files in the same place as the main files does not protect you from a fire, flood or theft. Off-site backup is important.

Around here they inspect the forms before they let you pour the footings. You can't just dump some concrete in a hole and call it a footing. If it rains and there is mud in the forms you have to pump them out. I even know of one town that requires a keyway inspection after the footings are poured and before the foundation walls can be started. We often use Rebar instead of a keyway to save time in waiting for the inspection because the rebar is there when the forms are inspected.

I hate to say it, but if this is how the project is started, you are in for a long ride. I strongly suggest that you find a knowledgable home inspector or architect in your area and hire them to work as your advocate during the construction. It will be the best money you ever spent!

The technology of window glass has come a long way since Andersen started to make insulated glass windows. Andersen now has replacement windows that fit into their old window frames. Window balance replacement kits are also readily avaiable. It is a nice option because you don't lose any daylight around the perimeter like many of the framed replacement units. I call them sash cords and sash weights.

search "dopdfv6". it is freeware that has been working great for us. After installation it becomes one of the printer options. It automatically creates a preview in Adobe and you save it as a PDF document. We have been using it for the past few years with no issues.

I've seen it done that way several times and I've never considered it to be a problem. I'm not aware of any rule against it. If the disconnect is within sight and within 50' of the compressor, it's fine. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thanks. I have never seen a system installed this way. I felt it was OK but was not sure.

I inspected a house this past week and the air conditioning compressor is located in the rear yard. The electrical supply and the refrigerant lines are buried in the ground. The furnace is in a utility closet that is accessed from an exterior door at the rear of the house. Refrigerant pipe issues: Is it OK to bury the refrigerant lines and is the standard insulation wrap acceptable when buried. If not, what has to be done? Electrical issue: The compressor is about 25 feet from the house and the electric shut-off is on the house, not on the enclosure adjacent to the A/C compressor. Is this allowed (the shut-off can be seen from the compressor). Opinions please?

Bill, After you find the termite problems and damage I would not be surprised if some of the real estate agents wished that you would roll over and play dead! Happy Hunting- Steve

Which takes us back to the original question; should it be a custom of this profession to routinely remind buyers that they have to do due diligence? If telling buyers to do a permit search at every inspection becomes an accepted custom of this profession, doesn't it then become a defacto standard and won't some buyers then try to blame the inspector if an inspector didn't think to tell them to do something that every Home Buying For Dummies books tells them to do anyway? I think everyone agrees that when there are indicators of unpermitted work or do-it-yourselfer slop jobs that suggesting that the client do a permit check is entirely reasonable; but to suggest it should be done as a matter of routine, even when the work is done so well that it looks like a pro did it or might be undetectable and wasn't revealed by the seller, who is the one that should have divulged it? I dunno. Seems like we're opening the door just a crack there and giving folks just one more thing to needlessly screw with us over. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Mike, I rarely disagree with you but I think it should be a matter of routine to recommend that our client check for the history of construction permits and inspection approvals when you see that a house has been recently renovated. What is our added liability if we make it clear in our contract that we are not doing this within our scope of work? Steve

I am also with Jim on this. I don't see how this is a political issue. The bottom line is that we are hired to do our best to help our clients and educate them about the house they are purchasing. What is the down side of recommending that our clients contact the local construction office to make sure that there are no open permits and that construction permits were obtained when required? Many of my clients are first time home buyers that are moving from an apartment. They may not know about the construction process. I explain the limits of what I can see and the benefits of having the local construction department involved in a renovation As examples I have recently seen a brand new roof stripped and replaced because it was improperly installed over three old roof layers and a new deck removed and reconfigured because it violated zoning setbacks. Both projects were done without proper permits and inspections. The roof issue was obvious to me but the deck was well constructed (just in the wrong place). My clients appreciated my advice and both have recommended me to their friends. If it is not addressed when they are buying the house, they may have to address it (at their own expense) when they are selling or possibly while they are living in it. I make it clear that I am not doing the permit research for them.

I include this as part of my report when a house has been renovated: "The documentation for all of the previous addition and renovation work (copies of plans, permits and inspection approvals) should be obtained from the homeowner. Additionally, any available installation manuals, operating manuals, and warranties should also be obtained. Building permits should have been obtained when the work was done. If a building permit was obtained, inspections should have been performed as the work progressed. The local construction department typically issues a certificate of completion after a project passes all of the required inspections." I specifically exclude verification of completed and approved building permits as part of my inspection agreement.

I tell my clients that if you are a "Do It Yourselfer" and you make a mistake attempting to repair leaking faucet, you may cause a leak and associated water damage. On the other hand, if you attempt to repair an electrical problem and you make a mistake, you may kill someone. LIKE THE OTHERS SAID-HIRE AN ELECTRICIAN!!!!

Here is an example of that type of system used as a design element on a building: http://www.inhabitat.com/2008/03/01/smi ... solutions/ How would you like to inspect this one: http://www.inhabitat.com/2007/10/20/pre ... leafhouse/

I could not tell. I imagine there has to be some type of tongue and groove or a lapped joint. If there were any face nails they were hidden well. The only visible rot was on some of the quoins. If there were any painted "Stone Joints" they have been painted-over. There are no signs of water infiltration through the wall.