Steven Hockstein

Opinions? http://view.exacttarget.com/?j=fe631572 ... 04747d1679

I get that it's good for HIs to have some knowledge of good and bad practice of pouring concrete slabs. And it's good to know a little engineering. However, if the HI is working the usual residential job, it's highly unlikely that the homeowner is going to have any knowledge of slab-pouring at all. Even if the homeowner (or seller, buyer, etc.) had such knowledge, it would be useless to him once the slab is in place. If the HI handed the (naive) customer a stack of engineering texts, or sent him to the best engineering websites available, it wouldn't help him at all. So, wouldn't the homeowner benefit most from the HI simply explaining that the slab wasn't poured correctly, and there's no practical solution for the problem other than a do-over? I bring this up because we often seem to talk "inside baseball" amongst ourselves, figuring out how and why a concrete slab failed, the nature of Texas soils, etc., even though the customer likely won't ask for, understand, or apply that information. Of course, I could be wrong, and customers could be just dying to learn concrete chemistry. But I think they might get more usable info from, say, Family Handyman. Because it's written for regular homeowners, not scientists. WJ Walter, I agree with you. I was just responding to the initial question about some of the possible reasons for the garage slab cracking. Some of my clients get confused when I explain the difference between return and supply registers for their forced air system. I can only imagine the reaction if I started to discuss concrete slab reinforcing. Steve

As home inspectors we have different opinions about this. We are not alone. Here is an engineering website that discusses this issue: http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm? ... 441&page=6

Yes- but only if installed properly. The mesh has to be installed so it does not sit at the bottom of the slab. I actually prefer the fiberglass add mix because it requires less precision during the pour. It helps hold the slab together.

When were the slabs poured? If the concrete was not protected, it may have frozen (and weakened) before the completion of the chemical reaction needed for it to properly cure. This can cause all kinds of issues with cracking. (Later Edit-Just re-read your post and saw that you are in Texas-I am not familiar with the winter weather there- is freezing an issue where this was built?) I also see welded wire mesh poorly installed and pushed down to the bottom of the slab when they are walking around in the wet concrete. This basically renders the mesh useless for holding the slab together as designed. Another common problem is when they prepare the ground under the slab, the edges are backfilled, and the center is more stable because it was not excavated for footings. The soil may be poorly compacted and then the edges settle more than the center. This causes cracks to occur. What does it mean when you say the edges are cracking on a "Micro Level"?

NJ Home Inspectors are required to carry insurance.

One issue I see is the potential for a conflict if you do an inspection in the town where you are on the zoning board. If you see something that has been done in violation, what is your obligation to report it to your client and/or to the town?

We typically specify Carrier, York, or Trane forced air systems in the homes we design. The HVAC contractors keep trying to substitute Rheem, Gibson, Goodman, etc.. with the excuse that the only reason the name brands are more expensive is because of the names and the cost of advertising. I know that there are differences in warranties and availability to the installers but I would appreciate any advice about the technical differences. Up to now, we have not permitted the substitutions, but if the cost savings for a system with similar performance ratings is substantial ($700-$900), is that a better option for out clients? Opinions please...

That is why we use removable hard drives and keep them in multiple locations.

We use Iomega Automatic Backup Pro. Our data is saved onto 90 Gig removable hard drives that we rotate out of the office every friday. I take it one week, my partner takes it the next week so there are always three copies of files with redundant files no more than a week old. THe software allows you to select when you back-up, how many copies, what files to exclude, what directories to include, how to sort, etc. If you need to restore a file, it is also simple. I would recommend this system. The system with the software and four 90 gig removable drives was about $400 when we bought it.

I don't know what you are talking about [:-taped] [] The grading is temporary. We have an engineered grading plan that has yet to be completed. There is still some soil to be removed from the site.

Click to Enlarge 96.95 KB Click to Enlarge 82.36 KB Compare this to the installation instructions posted above and you will see what I mean. Apparently, Andersen Windows has had some feedback for leakage in the past (for water infiltration), but the problems were traced to installation defects. Aside from the flashing and wrap mistakes, they were being installed with 8 penny nails. Andersen has tried to make their instructions simple, yet precise. I think even if you can't read, the pictures should show the basics.

We are performing construction administration on a new home that we designed and today we found that all of the Andersen Windows have been improperly installed. The framer insisted that that is the way they always do it and that they have been trained by Andersen. Apparently, they always do it wrong and he is full of it. After a discussion with our Andersen Rep and the general contractor, the windows are now all being removed and reinstalled because the improper installation voids the warranty. The framer is now going to take three times as long then if he did it right and actually read the directions that come with every window. Andersen has updated their installation requirements and I thought it would be helpful to share this information for those of you that work with clients during new construction. http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/ ... inary=true

This is a site that lists the many race tracks in NJ that have come and gone. Also many photos and facts about the tracks: http://www.njracingnostalgia.com/njhistory.html

Try this for gypsum board/roof sheathing info: http://www.gypsum.org/pdf/GA-276-05.pdf Unless you know the manufacturer you should use the generic name.

I remember when Flemington was a dirt track and it was always entertaining to watch the preppy newbies, with their Lacoste sweaters neatly covering their shoulders, get all excited when they saw that there were "Good" seats available near the end of the fourth turn. They would sit there for about 2 minutes until they realized that they would get showered wih clumps of clay as soon as the cars started to race! That was a show in itself. I also remember that after the races we would go to the local diner and could easily tell who attended the races because we were the ones covered with dirt and looked like we had been driving the cars. And of course, the car wash was an important stop on the way home.

Joe That is a fun video! Almost as wacky as school bus racing I used to go to Flemington Speedway to watch the car races before it closed. I remember the enduro races at that track. The speedway site is now a mall as well. Good news is Wall Township Speedway in NJ was closed last year but it will be open for racing in 09. Any other car racing fans out there?

It is actually a self cleaning plumbing fixture for Fine Hand Washables.

That list was funny but sad at the same time. Don't forget to add that the Cubs still have the longest record for not winning the World Series (Sorry Cub's Fans, could not help myself!- Go Yankees).

In case you have not tried these, a few simple things that help reduce drafts are to make sure that all windows and doors close and seal tightly, add gaskets at electric boxes, add insulation along rim joists in the basement.

Lamarite is commonly used as a substitute for slate. We have successfully specified this product on homes: http://www.tamko.com/OurKeyBrands/LAMAR ... fault.aspx

Darren, A roof ice shield is not a NJ UCC requirement but is usually required as part of the manufacturer's roofing system warranty. If the roof leaks and the system is not installed to spec, the warranty may be voided. ALso check out R905 of the NJ IRC 2006 where there is a requirement for an ice barrier if the average temperature is below 25 degrees in January. As far as the required vapor barrier that your client mentioned, I believe you are correct. There are comments in the International Energy Code NJ Edition (2006) in sections 402.2.8, and 402.5 about vapor barriers and moisture control. That is as close as I can find regarding this issue. Hope this helps. Steve

We are developing the site ourselves. It is a learn as we go scenario. Now I learned that Firefox does not display the same as IE. Thanks for the info. Now I can add that to my list of things to consider and change. When we are done, we can call ourselves "Good" website designers. Now we are just students.

We have worked on the site and based on much of the input we received, the website has been altered. Links were added on every page, photos were made smaller to load faster, flash should be faster, graphics have been improved, etc. Constructive critique is appreciated. Thanks Steve H.

If it is truely a groaning or creaking type noise and not whistling, here are some of my thoughts: Maybe when the old roof layers were removed they pulled or loosened some of the sheathing nails. Is it T&G sheathing or plywood (two layers removed means the house was probably built in the 1950's or 60's)? Did they check for loose sheathing when the roof was stripped and before the new roof was installed. What type of felt did they use? How did they install the patches over the old roof vent holes? I agree with Les, the wind loads are pushing and pulling on the house and the change in roof is causing the structure to react differently than before. If you can find the area that is creaking, you may be able to fix it from underneath. As you can see by the variety of answers, there are lots of reasons why you can hear strange noises in your attic. Maybe it is "Bad Ronald." Since you have not been in your attic since the roof replacment you should know that there is going to be a lot of debris left in the attic from when the old roof was removed.