Brian G

Originally posted by Richard Moore Even in Mississippi, I can't believe that 90% figure...unless breaker-swapping parties are a big thing in dem der southern regions? Nah, no parties, although that's about all the excuse we would need for one. [:-party] It comes mostly from either electrical contractors mixing thier supplies (leftovers from other jobs, cheap breakers bought somewhere other than where the panel came from, etc.) or people having added a breaker or two since moving in. Nobody worries about brand here, as long as it plugs in right it flies. I'll qualify my estimate for you Richard. 90% of the panels I see over 5 years old have more than one brand of breaker. Better? Brian G. Breaker-Breaker Good Buddy

I saw another "swimming pool in the attic" photo at ITA Tampa. In that one they had to cut notches in the lip of the pool so they could push it far enough out towards the eaves to get under the leaks. It was a hoot. Humans are amazing. Brian G. For Sale By Owner: 1700 sq.ft. 3 Bedrooms, 2 Baths Built in Attic Reservoir! []

I've never seen or heard of any problems resulting from that issue either. I don't write that up myself. In my area I would estimate that 9 out of 10 panels more than 5 years old have more than one brand of breaker in them. Brian G. Maybe Someday, But Not Now

Just incredible. Absurdity on parade. Brian G. Seen Too Many of These Parades [:-blindfo

Somebody call Norm and tell him to drop by. Brian G. Norrrrmmmm!

Originally posted by swarga I don't want to post it here, some poet/wooden water heater pan maker may write it on a bathroom wall. "Love puppy seeks dominate male big-dog. For a good time call Scott at 1-800-SPANK-ME" [:-doggy] Brian G. Perish the Thought That I Would Do Such a Thing [:-dev3][][:-dev3]

Originally posted by JEuriech One of my goals for the next year is to more actively participate on the different message boards. I'm sure you'll find it to be a great education, as I have, at a cost that's hard to beat. So you will probably see more of me in the future. Hopefully you will not laugh too hard at some of the questions that I may ask. I guess time will tell... I've always believed the learning curve is steeper for those who participate, be it online or in person. Ignore the part of you that says "Don't ask that, you'll sound dumb". Having free access to this wealth of knowledge and experience and not asking is dumb. Brian G. Heavy Duty Participator [:-graduat

It can't be ice dams down here, that's for sure. To be honest I don't remember exactly how far out the felt came...I thought that might be an issue myself, but not until I was back here (brain cramp). I'll check it when I'm going past the house again. No condensation in the attic, typical / functional ventilation. No gutters. I'm sure the roof has never been cleaned. Brian G. You Boys Clean Your Roofs? Really? [:-bigeyes

I didn't know there was a Peoria, AZ. Welcome to the board Jeff. Brian G.

Interesting. If a house has water damage and rot at a few places around the fascia and soffit and the shingle overhang looks adequate, what's the most likely cause? Leaks from higher up? Underlayment problems? Other? Brian G. Admittedly Other [:-dopey]

I don't know. It would be hard to say it was a bad thing, but I sure wouldn't want it to be a substitute for proper construction techniques. Mold is always a moisture problem, but if there's a significant moisture problem mold is not the only issue. Generally speaking, I wouldn't put much stock in it. Might be reassuring on a EIFS house. [] Brian G. Had Some Sauteed Mold With Dinner Last Night...Yummy! []

Fix, Go to the middle of the blue bar under the TIJ logo and click on "Resources". Scroll down about 1/2 way and you'll find downloads on manufactured housing. Brian G.

Thanks for the input gents. I've written 'em up for too much and too little, but all in clearly unacceptable cases. I've never gone around measuring, this was just a minor side issue in a larger debate. "The overhang of the shingles at the edges was only 11/16ths, where the minimum is 12/16ths according to manufacturer's specifications. I recommend replacing all of the overhanging shingles at the correct length." Yeah, that'll make me a lot of new friends. [:-dev3] Brian G. Mr. Picky Strikes Again! [:-magnify

Originally posted by Paul MacLean Around here a primary condensate drain to the exterior should terminate at least 5' away from the foundation. That sounds sensible. How is that typically set up? Is the pipe on top of the ground, or do they actually have enough slope around houses to hide it most of the way? Brian G. Contemplation of Condensation (I Think I Have HI Disease)

Originally posted by kurt One thing about Brian; he's indefatigable. (Brian, that means you never get tired.) I'm glad you included the definition. For a minute there I thought you were saying I was a member of a gender non-specific group. [:I] Brian G. Fully Gender Specific HI [:-cowboy]

Assuming one had an eave gutter, that might work. Brian G. What a Shock, Kurt's Mind Is In The Gutter (again) []

Thanks Paul, I'll try to dig that up. I found a Reporter article that said 3/4 inch minimum unless you have a a metal drip flashing (1/2 minimum for that). Brian G.

Personally I think the IRC (if not others) is quite clear that condensate drain lines can't be connected to plumbing vents, but I have to admit I'm a little conflicted about the sense of taking it to the exterior. If I were inspecting a house and found a dripping hose bibb I would certainly recommend having it repaired, partly because the water source could attract termites (or so I was taught). What's the difference between a dripping hose bibb and a dripping condensate line, both right at the wall? Brian G. Just Thinking Out Loud

I've been digging through a few manufacturer's specs today, but have yet to find where they say how much overhang there should at the edges (beyond the drip rail). Can anyone direct me to an authoritative source that states what is recommended? Brian G. Overhang Is Better Than Hangover [:-drunk]

Originally posted by Scottpat .....but the top of the trap is not closed it is open. That sure sounds like sewer gases could get out. Brian G.

Originally posted by Scottpat Every single city (5 of them) in my area allow for the condensation to drain into the vent stack as long as the condensation line goes into a trap and is not directly connected to the vent stack. For some reason this crept back to the front of my brain as I was driving the other day. How can you indirectly attach a condensate line to a vent stack without the vent being open to the attic? Brian G. Confuz-ed

Monte, Believe it or not, the meter was in (?). Bob, SURE! [:-dopey] Terrence, After what they did do, why not? [:-boggled Troy, Insanely enough I did open it, a meter base / panel combo. Other than rusty lugs and terminals (and a LOT of dirt-dobber nests) it didn't look that bad. Bruce, Absolutely. [:-graduat Brian G. Death Trap Inspector [:-skull]

According to M1411.3.1 of the 2003 IRC, that won't cut it if it's in a location "where damage to any building components will occur as a result of overflow from the equipment drain pan or stoppage in the condensate drain piping". I find that to be almost anywhere they put it. There should be either a second drain line or an auxiliary pan. If they go with the auxiliary pan they can use the float switch there instead of giving the pan its own drain line, but I don't care for that option myself. I think they're great when used on an auxiliary pan that has a drain line. The primary fails, the back-up fails, but the float switch can still save you from a screwed-up mess. Brian G. IRC-U, Do U-RC Me? [:-magnify

Indeed, 007 days is not enough time, especially if the concrete was shaken, not stirred. [] Brian G. The Masked Condensator [:-masked]

Originally posted by chrisprickett Did you do the "tongue test" to see if it was hot? No...for some reason that never occurred to me. I guess I could have peed on it to see if my "bulbs" lit up. [] It was hot though. Hell it was working. Brian G. No Way I'm Frying the Sacred Onions [:-sour]