Brian G

Originally posted by nspctrdan Well Brian...When I use exam questions to prep my HI students I don't believe I'm doing anything unethical. Is that so different from what Mr. Gromyko is doing? Possibly. I don't know what exam you're preping them for, or whether you're using the exact questions as they will appear on the exam. Nick claimed to have gathered the exact exam questions from the NHIE and the other state exams so his members could get familiar with and recognize them when going for a license. That is totally unethical in my view, a deliberate and shameless attempt to undermine the integrity of the process in the interest of one's own. Perhaps the solution is in a longer and more difficult state exam that is harder to prepare for through memorization. Thoughts? Ideally the test would include substantial portions where one would be required to think and put 2 and 2 together, but that gets into greyer areas where the *right* answer can be debateable. I also don't think memorization could be eliminated. In short, any subjective sections would be controversial and any sections based on recall would still be venerable if unethical students had access to the exact questions. We should always be trying to improve the process, but also defend it from those with no scruples. Brian G. Smart People Who Work Hard Don't Need to Cheat, or Want To [:-graduat

Originally posted by nspctrdan Scored 94 and actually left one answer blank accidentally. Doesn't seem any harder than the original test posted on NACHI's website. How could a working home inspector fail this thing? I'm pretty sure what you're taking is the slightly updated on-line test they've always had. The link to the test this thread is about was closed long ago and has never been rolled out at NACHI to my knowledge. Look back up the page to the last post by Gerry Beaumont. Brian G.

After I read about the stuff holding up for hundreds of years (as supply) I couldn't help wondering why it wasn't used in homes. Seems like a logical move for back-in-the-day, but I've never seen or heard of cast iron supply systems in houses. Oh well. Thanks Bill. [:-angel] Brian G. Larnin' Agin' [:-glasses

Okay, lemme axe you this one too. I've read about cast iron water pipes being in continuous use for literally hundreds of years (large main pipes, in old European cities). Was it ever common for those to be used in supply systems of houses over here? Ever seen that? Brian G. Axer of Lotsa Questions [:-graduat

Originally posted by inspecthistoric In my experience (depending on water quality) anywhere from 45 to 60 years. I've read more than once that it is supposed to be 30 to 50. I want to say the literature I have somewhere says 30 - 40, but varies widely depending on a number of factors. Rapid setting for damp/wet applications. It's usually used for pools and irrigation. I think it's acceptable for all classes and schedules. Is it okay for hot water lines or relief valve piping? It sounds like "yes", I just want to be sure. Latin- Plumbum, for lead. When indoor plumbing was first introduced, it was all lead. The craft of installing pipes was called "plumbery". "Plumb crazy" we now know is lead poisoning. Good Lord, I wasn't really expecting an answer to that one. Kinda fits in with the 'ole "mad hatter" doesn't it (also lead poisoning)? Leave it to Wild Bill Kibbel, fastest historic info in the east. You can pronounce the "b" if you like. Y'all talk funny down there anyway. We do talk funny down here, but I've never been anywhere that people pronounced the "b". English is a crazy language. [:-hypnoti Brian G. President of the Anti-Silent Letter Society [^]

Say John, you said the house is unoccupied. Did they leave the AC running? If it's been turned off for very long the changes in temp and humidity could be affecting the doors. Brian G. Though Not as Much as Jim Morrison Dying [:-dev3][][:-dev3]

I have three questions. First, due to a brain crap (and disorganized papers) I can't remeber what the average rated life of galvanized steel pipes is supposed to be, and is it the same for supply & drain lines? [:-headach Second, I've never had occasion to use any PVC glue that was any color other than clear or orange. What is the blue stuff rated for? [:-paperba Brian G. Make That Four...Why is There a "b" in Plumbing? [:-boggled[:-dopey][:-mischie

That could be any one of several causes, from a foundation getting ready to take a turn for the worse to lousy door installation (or any combination of causes). The only suggestion I can offer off the top of my head is to watch for doors that have already been trimmed or altered. Sometimes in older houses (much older) I'll see doors that shut okay, but the top and/or bottom has been heavily trimmed at a noticeable angle (typically from settlement). Oh, you also might look for cosmetic repairs to the walls around door and window openings. Shine a bright flashlight right up the walls, if they were worked on you'll see it. Basements I don't know about either. Good luck John, may the Force be with you. [:-batman] Brian G. Still Thinking...[:-bulb]

Odd. I haven't seen anything like that myself. Brian G. I Know Noth-ink, nnnnnoth-ink!! [:-blindfo

Well since you asked so nicely and all before you did it... [:-irked] Brian G. Stop, Thief!!! [:-masked] []

I honestly believe it's the water and not the sink, if you're standing over it with no water running you don't smell anything. That statement has been gnawing at me, and Mike's post is the reason why. We still haven't truly determined if it's actually the water itself. Diz, do a simple experiment for us. Run a nice big glass of water from that faucet, take it into another room, and give it a good sniffing. Is it really the water? Brian G. The Smeller's the Feller [:-yuck]

Originally posted by newhomeowner Phew ... ok first off the odour just smells like sewage or something, like a rank outhouse. If it's the actual water and not the immediate area that smells like sewage, I would be very concerned. I can't help thinking there might be cross-contamination (sewage mixing with the potable water supply) somewhere in the plumbing of the upstairs. It's rare but it happens, and it can have very serious health implications. Forgive the obvious statement, but DO NOT drink that water (or let anyone brush with it or do anything else). I would totally abandon that sink until I had some answers if I were you. Don't know anything about a wooden drain pan. Pay no attention to that man in the hunting get-up. Only the very finest semi-portable domiciles have wooden drain pans. [^] This is the only bathroom upstairs, and no other drains smell like this. I have never noticed the odour in the shower so it seems as if it's specific to the sink. Well that's good. Less to invasively inspect and repair. There is only one water heater and it's in the basement. That eliminates one potential prime suspect. It can't be the only water heater if it's only at the one sink. I honestly believe it's the water and not the sink, if you're standing over it with no water running you don't smell anything. Very odd, but strange things happen. The house is ooooooooooold ... built in 1954. I was sort thinking about badly corroded old steel pipes, but with the smell you're describing that seems unlikely as a source. On March 14, 2002 I was having a beer at the Shamrock ... LOL ! Hah! I knew it! Book 'em Dan-O! [:-batman] Thank you all for all the suggestions on bleeding, opening up the wall etc. I think we'll have to do that eventually. Does this info give anyone further insight ? I'm tapped out at the moment, but maybe one of the plumbing guru's will come up with more ideas. Stay away from that water my friend. Brian G. Le Smell Is Hell! [:-crazy]

Diz, Answer a few questions for us if you can. Are there any other bathrooms upstairs, or is that the only one? If there are others does their water smell too? Is there a tub and/or shower in that bathroom, and if so does that water smell? Is there more than one water heater, specifically is there a separate one for upstairs? Are you sure it's actually the water and not just the immediate area of the sink? How old is the house? Where were you on the night of March 14, 2002? Um...okay, forget that one. Got a little carried away. [:I] Brian G. The Game is Afoot Watson! [:-magnify

I think Les actually has a copy of "Big Un's" hidden inside the "National Builder". [:-drool] Brian G. Jealous Either Way [:-dev3]

Originally posted by Donald Lawson Was there any underlayment? It's common to see the shingles outlast the underlayment in this area when asbestos shingles are used. The only underlayment I saw was a cedar shingle roof, but I didn't screw with top stuff much. I tippy-toed up the only valley (metal, 4-5 inches wide, two stories + off the ground), took a good look around got photos of all I could see, and got the hell down. Damned stuff does last like hell though. My grandmother's house has had asbestos shingle siding since LONG before I was born, and they still look the same as they always did. Maybe we should reconsider asbestoes for outdoor use, try to combine it with something that would keep it from going friable. Brian G. Chicken...Now That's Friable [:-chef]

Whatever this stuff is made of is very hard and brittle. It won't fall apart in your hand but when you break a piece it has sharp *snap* to it. Needless to say I did not walk on it. Once you snap off a piece the edge looks light gray, almost like concrete, with no signs of a fiberous texture. Brian G. Shingle Sleuth [:-magnify

I did a 110 year old house Saturday with these odd shingles on the main section. I think they're asphalt or asbestos or something like that, but I thought I would consult the vast well of TIJ knowledge for possible specifics. They're about 12 - 14 inches square, roughly 1/8 inch thick, and were originally covered with green granules similar to those found on composition shingles today. They overlap left to right as well as top to bottom, held by the wire / clip in the third photo. Anybody know exactly what these are? Download Attachment: shingle2.jpg 34.07 KB Download Attachment: shingle3.jpg 39.47 KB Download Attachment: shingle1.jpg 44.45 KB Brian G. Make Me Look Good, I Don't Mind [^]

Love that Prarie. Prarie and Bungalow both speak to me. They say "I'm good-lookin', but I'm also built like a brick s***house. I'm a rock you can lean on, brother." If I had the chance to do it over I'd build my house as one or the other. Brian G. I Might Be Able to Afford the House, But the Shipping Would Kill Me [:-indiffe

Alien life forms to me. I've yet to actually lay eyes on a boiler in my life. Scary lookin' thangs, them are. [:-alien] Brian G. A Boiler is a Big Pot You Cook Chicken In [:-chef]

Ah, the excitement of the hunt and the thrill of bagging the lion. Gotta love it. Like Mike, I have no hard and fast rule about this. I say I don't move stuff in my contract, but I go with my gut on the job. So far so good. I had one instance where termite damage was discovered after the sellers moved out, because it was behind a huge dresser w/mirror. I couldn't have move that thing if I'd wanted to. Brian G. In the Termite Homeland [:-indiffe

Terence, The IRC requires at least one door, minimum size is 3' x 6' 8". It also must be direct access to the exterior, not through a garage. If you have the 2003 it's under R311.4.1 & R311.4.2 (Building Planning / Means of Egress). Brian G. Egress - Gressing Via the Internet [:-slaphap

Originally posted by homnspector Oh man, Brian will be bi**hing again about how "po" he is, spare me! Which Brian? Me? Where'd that come from? Brian G. Huh? [?]

When paint gets really chalky, isn't that a sign of limited remaining life? I've heard that somewhere, but I thought I'd ask in case sombody here knows for sure. Brian G. Painting Sucks...I'd Rather Cut Firewood [:-banghea