RobC

Some jurisdictions get it and some don't. Who's you daddy?[]

I'm sure it will stop horizontal moisture penetration at the cold joint between the strip footing and wall. But I think we have a bigger concern than a bit of water penetrating at that location. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying the gasket is ‘wrong’ I’m saying that we have lost the common reasoning to make this thing work, the macro perspective. The macro view point is really simple in my mind, build a box underground and keep it dry. You can call it what you like, a daylight basement, walk out basement, crawl space, cellar or whatever; it’s still a box in the ground. Outside of the structural requirements, we want it dry. which btw seem to confuse a lot of builders, The box is subjected to hydraulic forces from all five sides, water running downhill, uphill and through vapor diffusion. So, how do we keep the box dry? Ideally, I’d like to put a really big diaper around the thing and call it a day. But the process won’t allow me. I start by ‘waterproofing’ the sides of the box with a peel and stick membrane that runs 4â€

Reason I'm asking cause it looks like someone erased (Photoshop) the handle off the 2x. If you look at his hands you could fit a handle there to make the work easier. But then I would have used a garden hoe. Anyway, that's another method of doing it and perfectly acceptable as long as you have the man power. I placed those footings with one helper and that requires all formwork ready to go when the pumper and concrete truck arrive on site. I wouldn't have had the time to go back and rake in a key at least not in the temperatures I was working in. Does your vertical keyway gasket apply to this kind of construction detail? Download Attachment: 0245 (Medium).JPG 82.25 KB

This is the rubber I was talking about. It breaks the capillary path between the footing and the foundation. Click to Enlarge 79.63 KB Close up of the rubber; it's a nice step to provide that additional assurance water won't find it's way in. Interior and exterior drain tile is a nice way to go too. Click to Enlarge 82.3 KB I've seen this rubber gasket specified at control joints for commercial jobs such as dams, vats or large retaining walls but never on residential. I'm thinking we may get back to this detail as we progress.

Ok! I have to ask the question How is he able to do that without a handle? lol

Thank you, The strip footings are THE most critical portion of the building process. I like to get started on the right foot otherwise the project is a series of patches, compromises and bad problem solving decisions. If you look closely you'll notice two bars hanging from the cross braces and two more resting on grade that will be lifted once the concrete is poured. Generally, builders don't place rebar in footings and only a few in the walls, usually at the top. After all, we want to keep the foundation remediation companies in business. Another story for another time. I treat all foundations with the same respect, care and attention whether it's an addition, garage or shed. You don't want to make a mistake here that will affect the entire project. Download Attachment: ExtLandscapeShedForms(Medium).jpg 132.57 KB Download Attachment: ExtLandscapeShedServices (Medium).jpg 116.69 KB This shed will stand 5" above grade to avoid moisture entry at the sill plate. It includes a gas line, water, electricity and a 4 pair direct burial communication line. Notice the slab thickening at the edges.

Pictures I have. Where would you like to start? We could have a looooooooong discussion on home building Canadian style and compare differences.

Once you shoot your forms, placing the concrete is a breeze, just fill em and strike. I'd rather set the keys in their exact locations, I find that if you set the keys after they tend to float or move about. Accuracy is important if you do this Download Attachment: Logix3Rows (Medium).JPG 96.29 KB

This is how I form my strip footings The piece of wood suspended in the middle top of the form is the keyway that we are talking about. It is beveled for easy removal. Download Attachment: FdnStripFormsKeyway (Medium).jpg 116.65 KB This is what it looks like when stripped. Download Attachment: FdnStripKeyway (Medium).JPG 134.13 KB I feel your pain, this project is getting off to a poor start and you need to get proactive NOW before it escalates into a complete dogs' breakfast.

Thanks Joe, Got to learn how to insert VDOs. The second one could initiate a major thread hijack and being that I enjoy this place I'll refrain from doing so. Anybody know how to save these to a hard drive?

I'll let this one speak for itself.

It doesn't appear...it is I'd recommend a guardrail at the unprotected side and extending the handrail the full length of the staircase. Did you measure the first riser? It looks high to me.

Fantastic!

Are you allowed to use aluminum supply ducting for C' vent? I'd also like to see a base T'

I've taken the time to read a bit more of the report, honestly, if I was the client I'd demand a refund. This kind of reporting will hinder your business and increase your liability. For a start find a better software reporting system then change ALL auto text to fit your particular style and inspection environment.

Would you happen to have a photo of the in-wall forced-air hydronic heater? I'm visualizing a rather large unit heater style cabinet vertically buried between two studs. Did it have a fan? "Two level hi-limit protection-160° pipe protection" Now that's protection![:-bigeyes

Got to admit ....it is cute. [8D] And if you talk real nice to them, they will send you one...no charge.

LOL![:-bigmout Here is a clue Download Attachment: A.C.Indicator(Medium).jpg 72.33 KB And It will keep your ear clean.....kind of!

Well I think so! Download Attachment: CoolTool (Medium).jpg 69.39 KB

All of the above Try to include the complete home in your photo. Is the scheduled date the same as the inspected date? If not, then change the wording to inspected. 'Items not found in this report are considered beyond the scope of this inspection.' What does that mean? If you miss something, then it's outside the scope of the inspection. Personally, I like to identify my description of the home separately and then my observations below with photos along side so my client doesn't have to search for the information. The overuse of the words 'appears' and 'adequate' would make the Pope swear. What's with Page X - Part:1 and Page X - Part:2, that makes no sense. Every page should be numbered sequentially.

Grace recommends installing flashing OVER their product!? In keeping with the logic that water runs downhill I'd have to question the sensibility of trapping water behind the flashing and/or directing water behind the gutter system. Wrapping the eaves protection behind the troughs is something we don't do here. We want to direct water INSIDE the gutters and not behind them, the drip flashing is an option (not mandated by code) to further aid in the process. Placing the flashing over the eaves protection or IWS, simply doesn't make any sense.

I had to ask because the way our code reads, the eaves protection membrane should extend 12" inside the interior face of the exterior wall. Problem is you can't get 12" coverage with a 36" roll on a 24" overhang and a 2x6 wall. Yes, I know about the 44" commercial felt rolls, but I don't seem them very often on residential.

Would anyone have a picture of a perforated sump pit? I've never seen one perforated and where are the perforations? Wouldn't that somehow short cycle the pump?

It What?

I like to see the drip edge installed on the sheathing first and the eave protection on top of it, shingle style if you will. This way, it can direct water in the gutter system more effectively than if it's on top. Being on top is not totally wrong but in the event of an ice dam condition it wouldn't be as effective. Edited to add: This is what I mean Download Attachment: RoofingDripEdge (Medium).JPG 92.02 KB