Jeremy

Wild, Wild West. Happy smoke. I can see that. I've always heard it was a little "different" out there. Easterner

Some states also require the NHIE. Good choice.

Ahh. Gonna be a good un.

What do you mean by "car decking"?

WJ said, (In TN, the RE agent has to declare whose side she's on. So there really are RE agents who protect their clients.) Agency disclosure doesn't do much for me. I still don't get that warm fuzzy feeling as the client of commission earner. Suspicious one.

It's ugly but functional. Looks like a bunch of individual pours with cold joints to me.

I with Mike, there is easier cheese.

I respectfully disagree. If anybody's interested, I opined about "positive drains" ten years ago, and the column is here: http://www.nashvillescene.com/1998-06-1 ... s/swamped/ Note: The old links at the bottom of the story don't work anymore. WJ I agree for the most part with your article from the Nashville Scene. The 2006 IRC (R401.3) does not call for a positive drain from inside the crawl space. However you see what happens when water does get into the crawl space, for whatever reason. When done right they will drain. Gravity works good. It's just good practice and is required in some juridictions, even though it isn't fancy or high tech. Portland, TN is one of them. The inspector actually looks for them. Thanks for disagreeing, no offense taken.

Thanks for the new word.[:-graduat

#1 A crawl space should have a positive drain. This is giong to require a little excavation. A penetration at the low point of the crawl with some gravel and 4"pipe running down to daylight. If the lot grade will not permit this then a sump will be required, but you still need to get water on grade going away from the foundation. Any plumber should be able to handle the sump pump and many plumbing companies have backoes, too. #2 Proper grade slope keeps water running away from the building. This can be done by the same little excavator/contractor. #3 Be sure crawl is vented properly and has a vapor barrier on ground. If it is not then you would need a remodel/building contractor/or a mason to install foundation vents. #4 If gutters are wasted then a gutter man also, which some remodel/building contractors also handle. #5 Then a HVAC company can handle the air handler. All together it is going to be expensive, but it is not that complicated. If the sill plate and joist are rotten and soggy then it gets more complicated. Realistically only 2 or 3 contractors need be involved. Sometimes one good one can handle it all.

I wonder why the wire staple was removed.

I agree, looks like plummer involved.

The plastic bags should be on the outside to keep the blanket dry. It will perform much better, keeping the house nice and warm. Recommend periodic inspection, like after every rain.

Gotta do somethin, fun and exciting!

And maybe the deck too. It doesn't allow for proper clearance anyway.

Ah, I see. Is the mob still in operation?

Can't tell much without pulling the covers.

I have never seen an electrician carrying a torque wrench, although I am sure there is one out there somewhere that does. I have seen the allen type set lug rounded off inside. That would be tight enough right? Kurt, Is the fire chief or someone from that department doing the electrical inspections for your municipalities?

Stock it with bass and bluegill.

I wonder if it is retroactive. If you get the cancer in California and then move to Kentucky are you cured?

Looks identical to my Regents brand light (except my has gotten real ugly with age). It was made in China, probably came off the same production line; I wouldn't take $10 for it, but I won't turn my back on it when it is plugged in either. Man them things get hot!!

If it starts to go "easy' you done gone too far. I think Jeremy is funnin us. He knows fasteners. His hands have been dirty most of his adult life. Sorry. Old wrench bending humor.[:-crazy]

The 100 amp service is just 100 amps any way you split it up. There is more than one way to go about the upgrade. My preference would be to put a new 200amp service on the house and feed the garage from that, using the same wire that is feeding the house now. (Assuming the house is 100amp now and wire size is appropriate) A qualified electrician will know what is best by looking at your situation, loads, distances etc.

Hey Tom, I would say the same as for a well pump. If there is no open receptacle in a damp location or garage, then a GFCI is not required.

The rule is tighten it down until it starts to go easy, then back it off 1/4 turn.