MOB

The microwave in question (built in with venting system, venting worked fine) is cutting off at 20 seconds (not a breaker trip either). Plus it is not even mentioned as an inspection item within my report. This is the first issue I have ever had with microwaves. They feel I am on the hook for it. Any suggestions on the proper way to handle this situation? Mike

Am I the only one who does not test microwaves? I would like to know and if I am how do you all test them? Mike

Do you have a picture? I have seen ground prongs broken off in the outlets before, blocking the opening. Never more than one though.

What's the word on draining water heaters? If an older (say 5+ year old) water heater has never been drained will it damage or hurt it in anyway? What is a standard schedule for draining a water heater? and finally do any of you regularly recommend draining (as maintenance) water heaters?

A few years back I was inspecting a home for a gal who's father was a city water dept. manager. He was really concerned about the expansion tank and whether there was a check valve in the system. He explained to me that in his city, water meters where providing erroneous numbers (over charging people). The cause was leading them to believe the expansion tanks were causing the water to pulse therefore making the meter tick up. He said the meters where not designed to run backwards. He was currently battling with the city code enforcers about expansion tanks being required on all newly installed water heaters without check valves. Ok, now that I have said all of that, I don't know what the end result was or if his conclusions were ever verified. However reading about your process of elimination I would be highly suspicious of the expansion tank and whether the check valve is truly working. Oh the city was Bellevue WA and it was approximately 4 years ago. Mike

That's "damn" interesting.

Why would I do that when I got you. []

Download Attachment: Alien Cat.jpg 22.07 KB Just saw "Book of ELI" and according to the movie these cats pictured above are good eating.

I agree with the smell (BS).

Here is the answer, NO it is not required. According to the local building code enforcer when the codes were last written it was omitted. Logically it does not make sense to me and I will still add it as a recommendation, but as for a requirement, it is not required. He also said that walls adjacent to living spaces, in garages, are no longer required to be 5/8 type x but now can be 1/2 type x but ceilings in garaged are still required to be 5/8 type x. Of course other jurisdictions may vary! This was for Snohomish county WA.

I was just told by a contractor that it is no longer required to have a self closing hinge on a fire rated garage door. This home is new construction and is in a rural county area. I find this absurd. The door does lead to the entry hallway of the home. Any help here? I would love to correct the builder if possible. And if I am wrong I need to know. Mike

Sure is, I take it you've seen it. Lots of interesting things!

Here is a first for me, Main Electrical panel is approximately 10' up from landing below. Easily accessible from side entry. I read in past posts some conflicting info. on minimum heights. From what I read 6' 7" is max. height to top of panel. Is this correct? Click to Enlarge 20.62 KB

Does anybody have an opinion on "snow seal" or any other type of UV protectant for a torched down flat roof. A client was asking me about it and I was not completely sure. Are there any long term problems applying new tar over the top after?

I doubt that that's true for most one-man shops. They'll sue the corp and the individual. - Jim Katen, Oregon Anybody can try to sue you personally, but if you sue a corporation you cannot go after ones personal properties. Therefore, creating a corporation does give you additional layers of protection. There are also tax benefits to being a corporation. But you would need to speak with an accountant or tax attorney about that.

Just curious, when do you decide to preform this test?

Since July 1, 2003, all gas water heaters have had to be of the flammable vapor ignition resistant design. Since this was a new home, it's pretty much a given that the water heater will be a FVIR design. As Bill Kibbel pointed out, these are allowed to be installed on the floor of the garage. Under your Washington code, the reference is in section 2408.2. One minor point to keep in mind. If flammable vapors reach one of these water heaters and the FVIR system is brought into play, the water heater will shut down and can't be returned to service. It has to be replaced. Some inspectors think it's a good idea to recommend elevating them even though it isn't required. The elevation provides a belt & suspenders approach to safety and it might mean that the owners could avoid having to pay for a new water heater if someone spills a flammable liquid in in the garage. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thank you Jim. I was wrong about the enclosed burner. It did not have a exterior direct vent as you state above but rather a sight glass with a bunch of holes at the bottom. Which means it was a FVIR Water Heater. Thank, good advice!

Thanks for all your inputs. I did not know they were called "Bollards" (Thanks Brandon). As for hot water tank well...... I guess? Yes, "Water Heater" OK fine. I did not think using hot water tank was diminishing the home inspection industry. Sorry if I offended any of you for my sophmoric phrase. This is a wonderful tool that I really enjoy, however some of the recent posts have been a little harsh and it will make me think twice about ever posting anything (referring to the "Does this valve exist" thread). As for FVIR it did not specify this on the "WATER HEATER" all that was said was "Vapor Resistant". I was planning on calling the local building department on Monday. I just thought some of you may have seen this before since today is Saturday and they are closed.

Yes. Fixed metal poles in front of both hot water tank and furnace.

I just ran across a gas hot water tank in a garage that is installed directly on the floor of the garage. I was under the impression that this was a no-no. This home is new construction. The tank has an enclosed burner/pilot light. There is also a label on the tank stating that "this tank is vapor resistant" and "No elevation is required in certain municipalities". I have seen enclosed burners/pilot light before but they have always been installed on raised platforms at least 18 inches off the ground. I have tried to search the some local area building codes to no avail. Any comments would be helpful on how to try and resolve this little unknown?

This time of year you either got really lucky or you are amazing at photoshop?!?!?!

Yes, there was an operable window in the room. But I guess I don't understand? If all gas appliances must be vented then why would a gas range be exempt? Does not a gas range put off the same exhaust as a furnace or gas hot water tank?

I recently came across a Kitchen with a gas range that had a ductless ventilation system. This cannot be correct? Is there any documentation stating this is wrong so I can have something to back myself up? Or am I incorrect and it is OK to have a ventless system over a gas combustible range?

Mike, So is it safe to assume (yeah, yeah, I know about assumptions) that the first link will eventually be correct in the near future? This will be a great tool on educating clients and agents alike.

Thank you very much. I must admit I still don't understand the logic? So on inspection of homes built prior to 2007 with all of the dedicated refrigerator/freezer outlets that are not GFCI protected, are you all recommending that they be GFCI protected or do you just inform them that they are not and should be? In other words how strong is your language in your reports?