Robert E Lee

Did an inspection earlier this month on a 2003 single family home. When checking out the GFCI outlets in the kitchen I notice that the refrigerator shuts off when the GFCI tripped, so I write it up saying the refrigerator should be on a dedicated circuit. The Agent calls me this evening while doing the final walk-through and says the sellers did not correct the wiring to the fridge since its not "code". For the life of me I'm not able to find any code reference, but I have always understood that motor circuits could cause GFCI's to trip. Which in this case makes for sour milk...anyone have any help. Robert E Lee Rochester, MN

Thanks everyone. I did not see any info on the door panel that would suggest other brands of breakers could be used. I also checked with one of the local electrical supply houses that carries the Siemens panel, and their comment was that only a Siemens breaker should be used. Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

On one of my inspections yesterday I ran across a Siemens G3030MB1150 panel with a Square D "Hom" breaker, while the breaker fit, it didn't fit well. "Electrical Inspection Of Existing Dwellings" doesn't reference Siemens panels. Anyone have a source of checking compatibility issues? Robert E Lee GENERAL home Inspections, Inc Download Attachment: P5110004.JPG 140.25 KB

Thanks for the replies guys, I agree, I don't think there is a serious problem here...as mentioned add additional inslulation (I suggested she consider using foam within the stud cavities and the rim joist in this area), seal it all up and its history. Robert E Lee

Exterior is vinyl, gable end with no windows or other penetrations. The other factor is that there is a furnace mounted humidifier in place that may have been running on a high setting at some time in the past...current owners have not operated the furnace mounted humidifier. Robert E Lee

Looking for some thoughts from others of you in heating climates. I visited the home today of a previous client who called with a concern about some mold/mildew stains that was present on the interior of the rim joist and the sub-siding. The attached photo's were taken in a lower level bedroom that had the walls covered with insulation/vapor barrier at the time of the inspection (over a year ago). In the process of finishing this room they noticed a stain on the vapor barrier which led to removal of the vapor barrier and the insulation. While the photo doesn't show it well the rim joist had the greatest amount of stains, followed by the stud bay with the plumbing drain line. I told her I felt the cause was frost/condensation forming on the surface of the rim joist as it had no vapor barrier, and that the heat generated by the plumbing drain line (3 teen agers taking showers) behind the vapor barrier was causing the sub-siding to frost up. The client is quite concerned about this condition and covering it up by the finishing off of the room. My feeling is that once the walls are covered with sheetrock this frost/condensation that has taken place will cease.....any other ideas? By the way do any of you routinely remove rim joist insulation? I didn't in this case as I didn't see anything that drew my attention to the area. Download Attachment: Kraft1.jpg 49.78 KB Download Attachment: Kraft2.jpg 43.4 KB Thanks, Robert E Lee

Bain, I've had the same problem in the past, I've also sent them back for repair. But have discovered that the rubber cap over the switch can be the cause of a "sticky" switch (rubber becomes less flexible). When I called Maglight they sent me the rubber cap which I replaced and that cleared up the problem. You may give that a try, if so you can leave the cap off while waiting for the replacement. Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

No flashing installed around the sky lite (does appear to have caulk/sealant applied), nor is there any flashing along the stone exterior. A roofing contractor should examine and correct. Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

I have been using 3D systems software for the past 6 years and am completely satisfied with it, easy to change and customize, and excellent support. I collect data with an iPAQ 3955, and then print (infared beam) a summary page/pages at the completion of the inspection with an HP 450 printer. I feel the summary info is what is important should the client choose to amend the offer, and I can complete the report back in the office with out someone looking over my sholder. Which I the e-mail as a PDF or print a hard copy if that is their choice. Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

Please include me in the "safe code access" group. ghi@conexu.com Thanks, Robert E Lee

The attached photo is of an insulated heating/cooling duct running across the ceiling of the attached garage (home was built prior to firecode sheetrock requirement). I have always suggested that white styrofoam insulation be covered due to possible toxic fumes should it become flammable. Does the same concern apply to this pink material? Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc Download Attachment: P7230005.JPG 131.49 KB

Power was back on today, so went back at the end of scheduled inspections and found that indeed it is a heat pump (reversing valve, and thermostats with 2 mercury switches). Turned the unit on for heat breifly, and found that as you mentioned Mark the compressor was running and the electric resistance coils were drawing current. It was also equipped with a switch to select either the main floor thermostat, or the lower level thermostat for control...new wrinkle on dual zone heating!! Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

Got to my second inspection today only to find the electrical power was shut off to the home. Completed as much of the inspection as possible, but in the process noticed that the heat source was a 1976 Lennox heat pump, further checking showed a standard thermostat i.e. "Cool" "Off" "Heat", but no selection for emergency heat...other heat pumps that I have checked (of which there are very few here in the north country), have all been equipped with an "Emergency" selection for the electric coils (it does have 3 coils). The power is to be turned on tomorrow, so will be returning later this week to finish the inspection, any help on how I can test the "Emergency" mode? Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

I got to yesterdays afternoon inspection a bit early, start the outside and a few minutes later the agent and client show up. I bring them up to speed as to what I/ve looked at so far, and discribe the age and size of the A/C compressor and state that because it is in the mid 50's today (and was below freezing last night) that I would not be running the A/C. Suggested they would want to be sure and run it during the final walk thru. Well I go on with the inspection, the agent leaves, and just as I'm finishing up I hear the A/C unit come on...the client has decided to check things out. Well at this point its already running, so I go ahead and take the TD's (unit did seem to be working ok). So what do the rest of you use for a go/no go when turning on the A/C. I tell folks (and this guy) that until we get to where it is 55-60 degrees within the past 24 hours I don't start up A/C units, it has been my understanding that this is also the manufactures recommendation. Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc

Thanks for the web site Richard, great info. No, these are not feeders all of the loops are like this and the photo shows the PEX as close as it gets to the floor,the insulation that is visible was in a ceiling over a finished portion of the basement. I was was taking the photo from a larger unfinshed area that was all open under the floor trusses.

I inspected this new home today that had a hot water boiler with (4) zones of heating, (along with 2 forced air furnaces with 2 zones each), the hot water is used for under slab heating in the lower level, the garage, master bedroom bath, and under the floor of the kitchen/great room area which is where this photo was taken...the homeowner told me she didn't think the under floor heat was working right. This is the first time I've seen aquapex run under the floor in this manner, how can it be expected to provide any amount of heat when the closest it gets to the sub floor is 1-1/2". Anyone seen an installation like this before? Download Attachment: radiantlines.jpg 45.82 KB

In any case the wire is larger than what was designed for the breaker, I would call it out for an electrician to evaluate.

I inspected a home earlier today that was equipped with the original 1950's 100amp fuse panel. However as can be seen in the photo the neutral is a bare #6, and there is no ground cable present (bonding screw in place on the ground bar on the right side). The meter panel located on the outside wall had a ground running into it, which then connected to this bare #6 that ran through the wall into the main panel. My understanding is that the neutral should be an insulated cable, any comments? Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc Download Attachment: fusepanel.jpg 17.06 KB

I believe I would have suggested a short section(8"-10")of railing at the location of that first stair tread to prevent an accidental slip off of the side of the landing. In any case I don't think it would conform to current standards. Robert E Lee

I may have squeezed that photo down a bit to much, will try again perhaps this will be easier to see. I forgot to mention that this gas line supplies a furnace, water heater, kitchen range and gas fireplace....most of them fed with 1/2". Robert E Lee Download Attachment: Gasline.jpg 19.95 KB

They loved me in Georgia when I was there in Uncle Sams Army many years back!! Robert E Lee

The photo below shows a main gas line coming in as a 3/8" pipe, and all of the distribution lines are 1/2". I've not been able to locate a listed requirement, but have always thought that 1/2" was standard for the main supply pipe. Any ideas? Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc Rochester, MN Download Attachment: Gaslines.jpg 8.07 KB

Yes, we talked about that as well. The backyard has an uphill slope, and the home next door has the a similiar condition with the drive (both are at the end of a cul-de-sac). Told him I thought that placing some drain tile from the backyard out towards the curb might move some of the moisture away and perhaps prevent re-occurance. Robert E Lee GENERAL Home Inspections, Inc Rochester, MN

One of the inspections I did earlier this week had a rather severe frost heave at the driveway approach to the garage. As can be seen in the attached photo there was approx. a 5" difference between the garage slab and the drive. The buyer was quite concerned with this condition, I suggested he contact a concrete contractor about possible solutions such as a compacted gravel base that may not be subject to this amount of frost heave. Since I've been doing inspections (8 years) and paying attention to this sort of thing I only seem to see the condition in feb/mar time frames. I have always been interested in how long the condition lasts, and believe that in most cases the surface does return to the pervious position after the frost has gone out of the ground. Any of you see similiar situations? Download Attachment: Frostheave.jpg 36.57 KB