Robert E Lee

I carry one of those 99 cent 5x7 vinyl tarps to catch the insulation or whatever falls out when accessing the attic. Had one that was getting so thread bare I always got flak from the Agents, best thing was it had been folded and unfolded so many times it would almost fold itself back up when finished. Like Hausdoc I left it somewhere, still getting the replacement broke in.

A neighbor was interested in knowing if his furnace has an AC or DC blower motor, it is a 12 year old Carrier model #58MVP060-F-15-114. I can't seem to find any info going by the model #. Help would be appreciated.

Lennox G8, doesn't that have the Dura Curve heat exchanger? Hard to imagine one lasting that long with out there being cracks in the upper rear of everyone of the chambers.

How about the serial number A 201970, week 20 1970.

Thanks guys, the home was built in 1999 so wouldn't have been required on the existing panel, but need to do so on the transfer panel.

(B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates. Brandon, what version of the NEC is the para from? As almost all of the circuits in their existing panel are multi-wire circuits and none of the breakers have "handle ties".

My son-in-law in is the process of installing a generator backup system at their home. There are (4) multi-wire circuits that he plans on moving over to the transfer panel. When he went for the permit today he was told that he will need to use "handle ties" on the breakers of these multi-wire circuits. I have never been aware of the need for "handle ties" on multi-wire circuits other than on the disposal/dishwasher outlet. They are located in WA state, in a suburb of Seattle, anyone else ever run into something like this?

I would say that the line set would not be attached to either the condenser or the compressor, but would come coiled up ready for installation.

Most likely radiant ceiling heat then, but we still can't be sure.It is too old to be a radiant in-floor system, I think, at least from systems I have seen. The modern infloor systems are 15 amp and only 120 volt. A question is why 2 20 amp circuits? One circuit should be plenty for one room, and you only found one thermostat. Something isn't adding up. If you saw 2 120 volt 20 amp breakers, they should be joined with a tie-bar. If that is the case and the breakers are installed incorrectly on the same bus, that would explain the slow reaction time of the heater. It would then be only getting 120 volts. I didn't make myself clear, there were (2) 20amp 240V circuit breakers for the system. The room was good sized, which was built over a large 2 car garage. Stopped back after my morning inspection to check the ceiling with my tic tracer, and found that there is radiant heat in the ceiling. I was going by the thin layer of ceiling texture that convinced me there wasn't any wiring in the ceiling. But using Mike's suggestion I was able to verify that there appears to be panels as the tic tracer glowed when going all across the ceiling (and then went out when tripping the breaker) instead of going off/on as you pasted by a wire.

The only room with electric heat was this bonus room that had been added above the garage. The seller indicated that the system does work, but takes several hours to warm the room, will then hold the temperature once it reaches that point. Didn't think to use the tic tracer to locate the wiring, will remember that for next time.

This afternoons inspection had (2) 20 amp breakers labeled for electric heat. The bonus room over the garage had a thermostat and there was a relay box alongside the main panel. When I turned up the thermostat I was never able to get a reading of current flow on the wiring, nor did there seem to be any activity in the relay panel. I expected to find cables in the ceiling, but the textured ceiling spray seems to be too thin of coat to cover radiant ceiling heat, nor was there any evidence of baseboard units that had been removed. Anyone have experience with this type of electric heat, and what could I be missing. Click to Enlarge 48.8 KB Click to Enlarge 15.39 KB Click to Enlarge 27.75 KB

I had three vacant houses this past week where the indoor temperature was too hot (88-92 degrees) for the furnace to kick on. I've used the bag of frozen peas a number of times in the past so will try to remember the red/white wire trick the next time.

I believe your problem is related to restrictions in the drain line, as a large volume of water needs a place to go when the washing machine is discharging. Have a plumber check our the drain lines.

The photos are from this mornings inspection, laminated shingles with spots of missing granules, while the spots may have been caused by hail there weren't any other signs present that I normally see when there has been hail, i.e. dents on the furnace vent cap, or other metal surfaces on the roof. Anyone else seeing irregular loss of granules on this type of roofing material? Click to Enlarge 143.97 KB Click to Enlarge 143.79 KB Click to Enlarge 141.66 KB

I can't agree with this. I had one a while back where the washing machine drained into on old concrete utility tub. The tub drained fine when I ran the water at the faucet, but when the washing machine drained, water flowed out of the floor drain in the basement. Apparently the drain line under the slab collapsed and had to be torn out and replaced. I would have never found this if I didn't run the washing machine. Click to Enlarge 40.77?KB I'm on the testing side of the debate, I've found several restricted/broken drain lines that only show up when a large volume (full tub) of water hits the drain lines.

I'd give the self install a go, I did that several years ago and then had an HVAC contractor come in to charge and set pressures. Got 30 years of use out of the unit (having a buddy in the trade is even better).

I have (2) 1028 models and have been very happy with them, I have had them about 3 years now and have never seen the code issue referred to in this post. I don't know about the 1029's other than they have a couple more features than the 1028, temp and humidity recordings I believe.

Like Neal, I use 3D and have been using an HP iPAQ to enter data for years (on my 4th one). The concern I have with a tablet is always needing to lay it down when two hands are required, or when climbing on the roof. I have a holster that I clip to my belt and a flexible stretch cord attached to the iPAQ, I never drop it, never misplace it. When I got into the business 15 years ago I started out taking notes on a clip board, was always laying the thing down and walking off and then hunting around to try and remember where I left the dumb thing.

Observed this "tee" on a propane gas line at one of today's inspections, sure looks like a soldered joint to me. I know gas lines are supposed to be welded or brazed, what are the ramifications of a soldered fitting? Click to Enlarge 39.89 KB

The state inspector signed off on this electrical panel....could he have even opened it up, in addition the legend was completely blank. The house was new construction (one year old), home owner wiring. Click to Enlarge 84.24 KB Click to Enlarge 42.84 KB Click to Enlarge 57.1 KB Click to Enlarge 27.36 KB

At least it was on the hot water side of the water heater, had one last week that was on the cold water side! Click to Enlarge 53.77 KB

I am using a SN 1028 monitor and have been quite pleased with the SN radon report, has a graph showing levels over the test period as well as an hourly printout along with the ability to include up to 6 photos.

Another plumbing note! Click to Enlarge 35.67 KB

I have been using Squareup for several months now. Works real well (great WOW factor from clients) when I started the charge was 2.75% plus .15 for each swiped transaction and 3.00% if the card # was keyed in. They recently dropped the .15 fee for each transaction and I believe the current limit is $1,000.00 per 7 days. I went over that amount one week last month so they end up holding the excess for 30 days. I sent an email about increasing the limit and seems that is possible, but just haven't gotten around to getting the process started yet. I don't push C/C payment, but it seems more and more folks don't carry a check book anymore.

I did an inspection last week where the panel board was mounted directly to the concrete block wall, this panel was installed 5 years ago and there was evidence that the lead anchors were corroding due to moisture. I called for an electrician correct saying that "The panel needed to be mounted on a wood panel". I am getting kick back from the electrician saying that code does not require mounting on a board. I can't recall seeing a panel that wasn't mounted on a board of some kind. The only code reference I find is 312.2A that calls for a 1/4" air gap between the enclosure and the wall. Any other thoughts? Click to Enlarge 39.14 KB Click to Enlarge 45.5 KB