Garry Sorrells

It may be robotic but someone still has to be a brick tender on the job, bricks and mortar don't show up by themselves. The machine has to be feed. [:-magnify It also looks that the joints are struck by humans.

You don't have much recourse unless it is in the purchase contract. Structurally it looks OK. You don't like the artists creation. Laying stone requires some artistry.. Not all have the artistic desire in their work. Probably was a get done job by the installer. The good side of it all is that you can tear out what you don't like and redo it. It is a relatively small area that you are dealing with so labor cost and materials are small.

Absolutely right on high Relative Humidity (RH) from drywall, painting, concrete and more. The flooring installer has to take that into account as well as the moisture content of the flooring materials being used. The installer as a professional has to know what they are doing. I can in 15 min teach someone to lay flooring, it is the prep that is a major part of the job with wood moisture content highest on the list.

The problem is not with the house but with the floor. Dollars to donuts the flooring had not been acclimated to the house. Also the flooring installer had not checked the moisture content of the wood before laying it.

How about? Heating system froze, rads cracked. To be a living age there it has to be conditioned (heated). So flipper puts in as little as possible. Room has a heat source and meets definition. Like in sports. Tell me the rules and I will figure out how to play the game. Seem like it was applied to this house.

Jim, I would suggest the path of less resistance. The request/demand was " insurer has directed owner to "repair" cracks/damage" . Knock off loose material and parg over the area. Insurance not saying anything about being out of plumb or anything else, just cracks and damage. So just do what they request and don't make a bigger issue than what they exactly say/require. Material cost $10 or $15, labor 4 hrs.

James, Most of the time the jurisdiction that is responsible for the road is also responsible for the run off. Getting them to correct the problem can be a long drawn out process. If this is a private road then your probably up the creak.... Taking on this burden would have to be a costly adventure to correct. Burns, catchment systems and drainage lines taking the water to smother location and directing it to an adjacent property that you would then be responsible for their new water issues and your liabilities. Unless the deal is to good to pass up you might consider the now famous advice of " RUN Forest RUN!"

I haven't seen one taken down that has been up for a while. My curiosity is the development of mold and fungus between the plastic and the foundation wall.

Well I would have arranged a contractor to come the same time frame as HI and bid the job. Most HIs will not consider quoting what will take to make repairs. It is a matter of experience, ability, liability or unpaid time.

Whit Sharkbite I would recommend that you chamfer (bevel) the ends. A small nick in the O-ring will come back to haunt you. It may take 6 months to a year before it starts leaking. Else. well prepared ends and caution, leaves you with a good easy connection. Longevity is another question; 5 yrs, 10yrs, 20yrs, 30yrs or more. We don't know yet. I have been using them for 10+ yrs and have seen a few failures due to installation technique. PS; Almost forgot to mention. Don't forget about elect bonding when using Sharkbite.

Even with pictures you may miss a lot of damage. How are the rafter ends? Just to pick one area. Then there is the question of the top plate. The list could go on and on. Then ask if the repair is to be an exact replacement of existing design. Your best bet is to get your own contractor to make an all inclusive binding bid for the work after he has physically inspected the damaged areas.

How high from floor is the window? I am guessing 53inches, but could be closer to 60, but can not tell. What did you measure? it may be a case of close was good enough for permit sign off. If that was the case then it is not tempered and stamp/etching not to be found.

And you can take it with you when you move. Just like the European concept with kitchens.

Where was the glass? By/in tub? How far off floor? In passage doorway? Subject to fall area?

-If there is a stack temp sensor ti may be acting up due to soot, contacts,ect. -The photo eye (cad cell) on the ignitor may be the cause. -Cracked insulator on the ignitor electrode rods may be allowing an intermittent arc to occur. - Wiring, loose connection. - Transformer. Parts: Depends what you are looking for. You can get parts for 60 year old burners, you just have to look a little harder sometimes depending on the manufacture. A lot of parts are adaptable with a little modification.