Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • Location
  • Occupation

Tim123's Achievements

New Member

New Member (2/5)



  1. How can you not report the elctric service not grounded?? I have never seen where a new service or a upgrade service has gotten inspected without being grounded either by rod or by #4 solid copper installed in a trench. There is no utility company around here that will install the meter without a TPF inspection, which requires a ground, Any electricians out there that can clarify? Have a great day Tim
  2. Yes the starter strip is to be extended over, the edge, for years there were no metal drip edges installed, and lots of those roofs lasted the expected life. It would not surprise me to find out that this is a retro fix, done by picking up the tabs and sliding the shingle under to get the over hang that was not done when the shingles were installed, probably only extends up a hair past the tab cut out. Jodil, this link may help you: http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/20217.pdf
  3. Richard, your second post is the answer. You inspected, the roof, either by your recommendation on on their own, your clients are having it inspected, hopefully by a certified roofing contractor, for an evaluation. Maybe you could attend, with the roofer, and report back. Have a great day Tim
  4. If you are saying that there is no window, even in the bedroom, then this is not a legal bedroom. It probably would have never been considered to be one. Did you recommend a permit search by chance? Brandon, could you tell me where to find the definition of a "legal bedroom" I know that some jurisdictions for permit purposes, will say if it has a closet it is a bedroom, so this may vary from area to area, FEMA (this is the only national organization that I can find that addresses this) says a room is whatever it is used for. Any help you can give me would be appreciated Thanks Tim
  5. While you at it add a inline heater, Hire a qualified electrician, You will need a GFI for the tub and if you add a heater, you will need one for it also, DO NOT PUT BOTH ON ONE You will probably only get one chance to know if it was done correctly Have a great day
  6. Let me guess, They had new siding installed and the siding guy did the removal and installation of of the meter, network interface and the exterior lights and outlets. After seeing what a great job they did, the HO have them install the recess lighting. Can't tell but it looks like they used the neutral for the hot and the hot for the neutral Have a great day Tim
  7. Your are correct, it is the gas companies responsibility to determine if barriers are required, and should they determine that they are, they will not install the meters without the barriers. I have yet to see barriers on residential units where the gas meters are installed beside the garage door. The one that complains about the bushes will be the meter reader. Have a great day Tim
  8. Chad is correct, however the copper line should either have a yellow strip all ready on it denoting gas or painted yellow, my first experience with this was in 1982, this is supposed to help prevent the plumber from tapping into the gas line to supply water to the ice dispenser, or any other need for water. A lot of plumbers have moved on to the stainless steel line that have a yellow vinyl coating on them. Good luck Tim '
  9. Click to Enlarge 39.15 KB The rack(s), vent/regulator and meter are installed by the utility company on this coast, you can contact your local gas company and get the requirements, The gas line, in this case low pressure stainless steel is the plumbers. Hope this helps Tim
  10. I have never had a truss package delivered that did not have the gable ends included, with a engineered stamp on it. As such if it came with a engineered stamp, then no modifications should be made without the engineers approval, in writing with a seal. Normally if the engineer knows that outriggers are being installed, they will design the gable end to be lower, or provide a detail for a notch. Have a great day Tim
  11. Jodil, did anyone suggest that you take a good look at your insulation and venting, especially the venting, proper ventilation and insulation usually prevents ice damming. You may want to visit this site: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article ... 46,00.html Your concrete problem is not uncommon when you have several freeze / thaw cycles per year, the use of salt, or a poor quality of concrete that ultimately gets poured, not what left the plant, this can be caused by adding too much water, calcium, antifreeze or any assortment of chemicals that the the concrete installer thinks will make his job easier. Good luck Tim
  12. David, don't be focused on the plumber, I have seen numerous leaks in showers that are the result of unmaintained grout, poorly installed (or not installed at all) membrane under shower seats and pans, a good one is when the drain slot on the fiberglass or acrylic shower pan lip gets caulked or grouted shut, some leak so bad that you just know it has to be the plumber. You can start to isolate by removing the shower head, connecting a hose and discharging the water in the toilet. Good luck Tim
  13. Start by Repairing or replacing the vapor barrier, make sure it goes up the wall at least as high as the grade is outside. While you are in there, consider installing a passive radon vent, you will not have to worry about power. Are your ducts insulated? if not consider insulating, if your crawl space Your insulation should have a vapor barrier which is installed toward the heated floor above, unless your crawl is heated. Crawl spaces in hot humid ares tend to do better if not vented, if you have vents that can be closed, you can give it a try. Good Luck Tim
  14. Is it possible that each joist extended past the wall below it is cantilevered and the end product is a overhang? Kind of like when you take 2x4 studs and nail them between 2 x 4 studs, which now become top or bottom plates and the product is called a wall?? Back to the original question. If the house was built in 1976 (32 years ago) and there is no sign of failure, what ever they did must have worked. If you see signs of repairs such as added cantilevered joist, then you may have a cause for concern. Sorry I do not have any big words to add. Have a great day
  15. Sorry, I am a little late to the party. Your are not missing any thing, that is poor workmanship, and at the very least without the 1 1/2" bearing you could have sited missing joist hangers, since without the proper bearing they are hanging off the rim joist Also is that a bearing wall above the window, if so there should be some type of header to carry the load across the window. What you may have missed and I cannot tell from the picture, but it appears that there is no seal sealer / termite shield under the sill plate, and here the sill plate would be treated. have a great day Tim
  • Create New...