
Charles
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Good Day Professional Inspectors. The Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors are seeking applications for Board Member Positions. Independent inspectors are welcome and encouraged to apply. The Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors is an independent not-for-profit organization, incorporated in the State of Illinois and tax exempt under IRS guideline 501c(6). It serves the public interest by establishing the standard of competence for the home inspection profession. EBPHI governs and administers the National Home Inspector Examination specifically to support the regulatory needs of states in identifying the required level of competence to conduct a quality home inspection. Should you be interested in serving on the EBPHI Board of Directors please reach out to our Executive Director for a Board of Directors application. Dee Kring dkring@executiveoffice.org Additional information about the EBPHI Board and the NHIE please go to our website at www.homeinspectionexam.org Charles Gifford President Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors Cell (904) 424-5988
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Good morning, The Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors ®️(EBPHI) is looking for new Directors. The Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors®️ (EBPHI) is an independent not-for-profit organization whose mission is to establish the standard of competence for home inspectors and to enhance consumer confidence in home inspection professionals. EBPHI, founded in 1999, maintains and administers the National Home Inspector Examination®️ (NHIE), a content-valid examination for use by regulatory bodies in assessing competency for regulatory purposes. EBPHI Board of Directors and its responsibilities EBPHI is governed by a board of directors whose members represent home inspectors and the home buying public. Directors are expected to: · At all times advocate and promote use of the National Home Inspector Examination in regulatory processes in their own states, in other states and in federal regulation as needed. · Promptly and thoughtfully respond to issues and concerns brought before the Board at any time. · Diligently strive to educate themselves on the science of psychometrics (test development), to ensure that the National Home Inspector Examination remains credible, valid, reliable and defensible. · Participate in three in-person meetings each year and in conference call meetings as needed. · Be available to present information about EBPHI and the NHIE to legislators, regulators, home inspectors and others to enhance acceptance of the examination. Please visit our website at WWW.HomeInspectionExam.org for additional information. Should you be interested in completing an application email me at AmeriSpec@Bellsouth.net. Thank you, Charles Gifford President Elect Examination Board of Professional Home Inspectors
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Greetings, I recall that several years ago the Flat Glass Manufacturers and code writing folks were trying to develop standards for installation and fastening of glass surrounds in showers/tubs. It is my understanding these standards never made it to the latest additions to the building codes. Comment. In my market, we are seeing larger and large walk in showers. With and without doors. Some of this glass is huge, six feet tall by eight foot in length. Might be mounted to the wall with two brackets, but none on the threshold/sill/step other than silicone. Need some help finding where in the IRC or Florida Building Code, I might find reference, to fastening requirements, and or design specifications. Thanks in advance. Charles
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We like caulk and flexible flashing tape! Charles Click to Enlarge 58.45 KB
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I know time has passed, but it is possible to repair a brick veneer wall from the inside when client wishes to not remove brick. Expensive and time consuming and can lead to future discover and ever increasing cost. Repairs involves supporting existing floor and roof above. Removal of exiting wall. Building a new framed wall with sheathing (ZipWall) (Huber Engineering). Fastening/anchoring per plan. Using special fasteners to tie in existing brick to new wall framing. Charles Click to Enlarge 105.9 KB Click to Enlarge 36.85 KB
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We prefer even lower costs bidets. Charles Click to Enlarge 23.16 KB
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Thanks for the comments. Charles
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Good morning. I have a client that has a new home who is now starting to paint interior walls new paint colors. Upon painting several rooms, bubbles have occurred. It appears that the new paint activated the original builders paint at the joint compound on the drywall and bubbled/peeled due to improper preparation. Beneath the paint bubbles the joint compound was/is dusty. New home painters in production building here in Jacksonville typically spray the field and cut in with a brush; trim, casings, and ceilings. No primer is applied. Does this appear to be a correct assumption? How does the owner correct? Continue to paint, and skin coat the drywall with new joint compound, sand and prime, where bubbles appear? That's a lot of work. Any immediate solutions? Thanks is advance. Charles Click to Enlarge 16.56 KB Click to Enlarge 22.34 KB
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My bet is on connecting a hose to flush out the in-ground drains of debris. Might be easier than jamming the hose down the downspout from the gutter/roof above. I know I have to flush the leafy matter out of my drains on a periodic basis. what was on the end of the hose behind the downspout (male-outlet or female-inlet end)? Charles
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Good morning. Guidance please. First one I have seen. International Comfort Products. 2-1/2 Ton. Condensing unit MFD 2013. Labeled R22. Air handler MFD 2014. Labeled R410. I know that R410 systems run at a much higher pressure and use different metering devices than R22 systems and replacing an old R22 condensing unit requires an air handler replacement because of these pressure differences. But what about the opposite. Can a R410 air handler work with R22 refrigerant? I recommended that the buyer consult with an HVAC contractor to ensure proper matching and to also discuss potential warranty denials due to possible mismatch. Thoughts? Respectfully, Charles
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In our area, NE Florida, we have tons of wood frame stucco homes. Many have significant water intrusion issues. Below you will find comments that we use in my company on every wood frame stucco house. I don't believe that a couple of sentences can address the risk with stucco, or at a minimum, relaying to a home buyer the limitations of our inspections. "This is a wood frame home with a hard coat stucco type finish (we are unable to determine the thickness and number of layers during a visual home inspection). It appears that the home has a mechanically attached lathing, cement base coat and either a synthetic, shell, or painted finish. Cement based stucco systems are designed to drain water if the system gets wet on the outside of the self-furring lathing and builders paper. The finish is supposed to dry to the outside (exterior) or drain down to the bottom weep screed or stucco stop. We also need to consider face sealing the finish system in certain areas to keep water out, as such it is important to keep all through the wall penetrations; windows, visible flashing, doors, hosebibbs, and electrical connections sealed against water intrusion (these are areas where the original construction flashing details cannot be seen or observed and are often behind the stucco finish system). Additionally, if cracks occur and/or if water intrusion is detected immediate corrective action is recommended. Intrusive wall examinations have not been conducted." We have recently started using the following on new construction. "ADDITIONAL STUCCO COMMENTS. Application of plaster stucco is intended to follow two specific National Standards, ASTM C926-14a and C1063-14c. While the majority of these two documents are followed there are several items that are not adhered to in our geographic area; head flashings over lower level windows on two story construction, weep provisions at second floor projections, and casing beads at penetrations and/or dissimilar materials. We cannot answer why these important details are ignored, we can only alert you that they are missing. Care is needed to ensure that you have proper rain control provisions (rain gutters and s crack free, sealed finish) and that you monitor your exterior finishes for proper performance on a routine basis." Charles
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Hilti makes concrete anchors of all types. https://www.us.hilti.com/anchors Charles
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Your tree stump dilemma brings back a bad/yet pleasant memory. Living in Florida we always worry about windstorms and trees. Well the inevitable happened and a large oak in my front yard broke apart and fell on my roof. Luckily no structural damage but the branches poked about seven holes in the roof deck. During the storm I was on the roof with a chain saw, wife on the ground with a flashlight while I cut and removed branches and covered the roof to minimize water damage. Well, what to do about the stump and palmetto bushes that surrounded the tree? We cut the tree stump off at the ground and cleared the palmetto fronds. And spent the next several weekends washing away the soils to get to the roots. Worked with axes, hatchets, and hand saws. Gave up. Turned to kerosene and beer. Neighbors would come by with beer and lawn chairs. Each weekend, we would burn a gallon of kerosene, drink beer, watch the fire and shoot the breeze. Too much moisture in the roots and palmetto stumps. After several weekends the thrill of the fire went away. Stump grinder to the rescue. Made easy work. No real memories though! Charles
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Marine grade tung oil
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Sure looks like subterranean termite treatment holes. Where is your finished floor in relationship to the holes? Charles
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Back in the day when I lived on base housing at Camp Lejuene I installed a very simple and inexpensive fence system. Simple pressure treated 4" round posts and woven wire fencing. Posts set in gravel. Easy install and easy removal when I left the Marine Corps during the Force Reduction Act of 1990/91. Took the fence with me to Jacksonville, FL. No longer have the fence or the dog. Wife wanted a classic white picket with scalloped design. Charles
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I don't know how many jalousie windows you have on your home but you might want to consider replacing the window and replacing the precast sill. Charles
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New construction. National builder. All the vanity sinks have a 1-1/2 inch lip to the sink (four bathroom house). It certainly appears to this inspector that a lip this large is not correct. I have scoured the internet to look for a standard and cannot actually find a standard on the lip. I know that the vanity counter top fabricator should use the template provided my the basin/sink manufacturer. Opinions? Thanks in advance. Charles Click to Enlarge 20.83 KB
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Thanks for the advice. I will be staying downtown. We plan on being in Chicago about seven days. No budget however the wife wants to be pampered but my wallet says stay away from the Trump and the Four Seasons. I have good things about the Architectural Boat tour so that certainly will go on the agenda. We tend to like to sample local foods (immigrant/eclectic) and love to experience the walking and mixing that comes with large cities. I personally want to experience the finest steak and Italian that Chicago has to offer. Any day trips where we would need to rent a car for the day? Charles
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Greetings, I know that several on this board/forum live and work the great city of Chicago. I have been to Chicago many many times when I was on the ASHI Board, however I have never visited as a tourist. My wife and I are planning on visiting in October and would be interested to know of recommended hotels in the downtown area (loop, lake front, etc.) and must do activities and special restaurants. I know there is a lot that can be experienced in the downtown area, Millennium Park, Navy Pier, shopping, aquarium, etc. Would be interested about any feedback on special architectural tours (riverboat or on foot) or other cool things to do. Thanks in advance. Charles
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Living in Florida there is probably a swimming pool at every four houses. Yes we inspect them. Inspection includes barriers, visible components of the shell, liner, coping, visible piping, pressure gauge, type of filter, electrical components, timer and controls, heater (solar, gas, heat pump), lights, bubbler, and pop up sweeps. Excluded items would include automatic valves (can and will fail and anytime), automatic chlorine generators (can and will fail at anytime), leaks, in-ground/buried components. I do not see any significant risk associated with inspecting these luxury items. Its a nice add-on fee. We include the CPSC Bulletin on Pools/Entrapment. Find attached. Charles Download Attachment: PoolSafety.pdf 703.06 KB
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How is this for big water? And a little pool. From the Atlantic coast in North Florida. Charles Click to Enlarge 64.43 KB
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Good morning, I have two clients who have recently called me after discovering; 1-damaged/moisture logged wall base, 2-damaged, water logged engineered hardwood flooring, beneath their windows. House number 1 was built in 1994, wood frame, plaster stucco. On this home the plaster stucco runs to grade. No rain gutters. House number 2 was built in 2002, wood frame, plaster stucco. Stucco terminate with a weep screed. No rain gutters. At the time of the inspections, no visible signs of failure were observed. At this time our clients are not faulting us but are looking for solutions (but certainly could in future). Based on our history in Jacksonville and the age of the homes, in both cases, the homes will simply have the windows inserted into the wood framing, and nailed to the face of the oriented strand board wall sheathing using the nailing flange/fin. One layer of felt back lathing. No secondary weather barrier. No window flashing (flexible or other). No head flashing, either. We have had several significant weather events in July/August, two tropical storms, and several stalled fronts, that have dumped inches of water at a time. The bulk water has finally found a way into the homes. I know that the only solution is to cut back the plaster stucco, remove the windows, repair the rot, and reassemble with appropriate weather barriers, flashing, etc., which we will do. Now, the question(s). The common denominator in both houses is the brand of windows. They are builder grade General Aluminum windows. I have not discovered anything specific regarding any claims against this window manufacturer. I suspect that the sealants have failed at the sill to jamb intersection. I cant prove it yet as we have not disassembled the wall sections yes. We do plan on documenting what we find when we get there. Any information regarding General Aluminum Windows would be helpful. Additionally, and based on my recent experience, I am wondering if I should make specific comments in any future reports, regarding the potential failure of this specific brand of windows. That's an awfully large number of homes in our areas. Many of the national builders were using these windows. Thanks in advance. Charles
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Here is a plan that you are more than welcome to use. I was planning on building this in my backyard but I simply don't have the money at this point in time. It has a garage/workshop at one end and an open summer kitchen on the other. Plan was to use cypress timbers and tongue and groove for that rustic look at the summer kitchen end. Did not take the plans to an engineer yet. Maybe one of these days. Charles Download Attachment: GarageSummerKitchen.pdf 466.12 KB