Jim Baird

The manufacturer's rec I saw on these flanges said screws should be no more than 1 1/2 inches "apart". It did not say "on center". With a big fat screw head like these, 1 1/2 on center becomes about 3/4 inch apart. I am sure you will not see a rec that says to screw panels on thru the ridges. There is likely lots of loss of fastening power with that way.

If you are going to re-engineer that motor I would say to go green and hook up a rotary gerbil cage.

Thanks, Jim. My quick research just showed more than one how to vid saying to place screws no more than 1 1/2 inch apart. I am from the common sense generation. I used these flanges on this kind of roof 20 yrs ago and only used a screw in each corner. Am pretty sure they have not leaked. Common sense tells me that minimizing holes you punch in a roof is the best way to do it. Speaking of common sense, metal roof panels with this profile are also supposed to be fastened on the flats, not on the ridges. I fastened mine on the flats, but I have seen many installations where the installer overruled the directions and put screws on the ridges. I can only think the engineers that decided the flats are where screws should go were worried about resistance to uplift more than they were about leaks.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I guess my only question now is whether "high temp rating" qualifies as "non-combustible".

...thanks for sharing these. I swear I've seen those faces on the post office walls before.

That size boot has to span that much. My concern is the boot material being combustible.

This "boot" is adhering to a flue pipe clearly labeled 2" clearance to combustible. Could find no label on boot. Does anyone here know this boot?

The installer might be the grandson of Rosie the Riveter. This is one of several boot flanges on this roof fastened this way.

Thanks for the translation, Bill. Southerners often use "local color" in their writing.

Sorry did not see link or whatever to OP. Just last week I started one of those inspects where you cannot make any progress due to cascading problems from the gitgo. Told client he could call me off like a dog off the hunt and I would bill him hourly. Ten minutes later he blew the whistle, threw the flag, we settled amicably and I issued a letter later for the paperwork folks.

This is kind of an iceberg's tip. No deck no vent screening. Below things get funnier. "bank-owned" and empty for several years, it was scooped up by an out of state auction company and listed at a "bargain" price. Local looking for real estate deals paid way too much for it.

This owner/builder occupied this house for a few years till he gave it back to the bank. You can tell by the soot that he did have some fires in the wood stove this flue serves. It luckily did not get hot enough to ignite pine truss. Photo shows his adaptation for lack of 2" clearance to combustibles noted on the flue label. Is there anybody here that would not call for correction?

...risers are supposed to be the same height within 3/8 inch. The laminate is likely 3/8 and the nosing 3/4. I would say it is on the line of being busted, but would still call this out as a hazard.

Nosing is very important. I write it up all the time. Is that a ten inch tread? In GA we have tread amended to 9 I think.

I smell a rat. Though I have found tomcat mummies in crawls.

Point of attachment is a long piece of metal with a bolt at each end. One bolt pulled almost all the way out. This stout rope, with taped ends, was somehow wrapped around the drip loop, to what effect I could not tell.

...thanks for the replies. You can tell by the dirt dauber deposits that it was rarely swung during a 53 yr occupancy.

Have seen a lot of brick ranches lately. 60's and 70's often generational changes of occupancy. In this one I noticed a carpenter's on site adjustment of door hinges that I have not seen. To get a good anchor into the opening frame, since door frames were beginning to be made of 3/4 thickness wood, he anchored the hinges with what looks like about a ten penny casing nail, for which he had to bore an extra hole in the leaf. He left the head standing proud almost a quarter inch, but on the opposite leaf he bored a matching hole so the leaves would swing fully closed. During my carpenter days we would just substitute a 3 in. screw for one of the shorties installed with the pre-hung unit.

The range is a plug and play device, not a built-in. Roll it out of the way and you have walkable area. Guard needed here. While we are at it, those treads look mighty narrow. Does a foot fit the depth of each?

Whatever happened took some time, but that has to be pushed up and not settled.

I count four risers in that flight, which likely means there is a 30" drop. I would call it a stairwell in need of a guard.

...my grandfather worked for Western Union for 50 yrs. When he retired they gave him a gold watch and a salt water fishing rod, but he never got to wet that hook. He collapsed while shaving at the bathroom mirror a cpl of months after he retired.

I have met realtors on site that would not even discuss something as on-site measurable as square footage because they considered the subject to be too litigious. The older a building is the more likely it will have been added to at different times. In Italy a building I entered to see an art show was built in 1430 something and remodeled in 1640.

http://www.latimes.com/world/la-fg-mexico-family-dead-20180324-story.html Could this event be from lack of combustion air? Or was it effluent?

...outside paint looks mighty fresh. Is this a typical flip?