Marc Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 I've this problem with a gap between the veneer and the windows. Click to Enlarge 53.63 KB The brick isn't deep enough to reach the edge of the window. I've seen in photos somewhere how the bricks are turned at the perimeter of fenestration openings to allow it to reach the windows so the space behind the veneer doesn't show on the edge of the windows. Anyone have drawings or a BIA document number that shows what I need? Masonry ain't my forte. Marc EDIT: I've looked at BIA #30 and the house in the photo has a 1/3 running bond. The question now is how do you manage the edges of a fenestration opening on this bond and not leave any opening to the cavity behind the brickwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 EDIT: I've looked at BIA #30 and the house in the photo has a 1/3 running bond. The question now is how do you manage the edges of a fenestration opening on this bond and not leave any opening to the cavity behind the brickwork. I have not seen this on residential; however, on commercial jobs they will pull the windows outward 1 1/2" with treated lumber. I have seen something similar to what you are looking for; however, i cannot seem to remember how they did the "off" course of brick. Another way would be to frame the window opening with shortened brick returns around the window and tie this frame into the remaining brick with ties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Seems like the bricklayer decided to skimp-out on the shortened returns. Either that or the builder decided to skimp-out on the 1 1/2" furring. I'm writing this baby up. It's a 2 year old house. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Kogel Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 We have the National Home Warranty here on new construction. The builder would be going back to fix that. Labor and Materials is under a 2 year warranty. The temptation will be to just fill that gap with mortar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Baird Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Time was "brick mold", of over an inch thickness, would bring out the perimeter of the window unit to "kill" against the brick. Around here most "masons" don't even put slope on the rowlock at the sill. We have, I think, seen a general decline in trades abilities/knowledge over a few decades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Lacking soft lime mortar (about a K or L), rowlocks don't work worth a damn. Packing gaps with Type N looks OK for a few weeks, then it cracks and water still gets in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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