Richard Moore

Chad...how old is that code quote? I only go back to the 2000 IRC, and the "assembly" and "self closing" bit isn't in that. And doesn't seem to appear in anything later (I don't have the 2009). From the 2006... R.309.1 Opening Protection. Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1 3/8-inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb core steel doors not less than 1 3/8-inches (35mm) thick, or 20-minute fi re-rated doors. I'm not arguing against the value of a closer, just that the IRC diesn't seem to currently require them.

I don't believe it is a national code requirement. Certainly not in the IRC. Possibly local AHJ?

A small, cheap, plastic "six-pack" cooler works well, easy to open even with gloves, and keeps stuff clean. Click to Enlarge 7.42 KB

I've got $100 that says it will never get changed or moved. No argument at all that it's wrong and should be reported as such but, "off the record", how much of an issue is this really? It can safely be reached, even in an emergency, by the homeowner. If it ever actually needs to be worked on, presumably a temporary safe workspace platform could be fashioned. If this was my own home, my only real-life concern would be what the next home inspector would say when I sold it. But...to repeat myself, it is wrong!

I don't think so. Along with being the original, 20-year old water heater, it looked to be the original roofing and had no signs of anything ever being mounted on it. But...who knows? It is possible they planned for one and never installed it.

OK...I heard from the agent today. I'm not sure this makes any sense, and it is secondhand, but according to her the seller, who wasn't the one who originally installed this, says it is some type of circulation system to "use the hot air in the attic to help heat the water". He also said that the "pump" was in plain view in the attic. I'm guessing he meant this white box thing that was buried behind about 12 feet of junk stored in front of it. Click to Enlarge 56.97 KB Nothing I've ever seen before. Just looked like more "stuff" to me. Oh, and it also turns out that he discovered I'm not "ASHI certified" and, therefore, supposedly unqualified to suggest my client even ask him about this. [:-banghea

No furnace. Just individual electric wall heaters.

Yeah, I knew the fire bit was a stretch. [:-eyebrow All good points Jim, and yet I still wouldn't hesitate a second to (briefly) say those ropes are wrong and they should get some of these. Click to Enlarge 15.6 KB $13.80 at Amazon. Just fix it.

Jim, if that set-up looked like it had been done by a professional trucker, or even a cub scout recruit, I might agree...but it doesn't. And...what if there's also a fire? Are you comfortable enough with the tensile strength of that particular rope to just recommend better knots?

Yes, at least some of them. Let's assume the house was plumbed for return to the tank, do you think there would be enough convection flow for that to be effective for a rambler with the bathrooms at the other end of the home from the water heater? I have my doubts! There sure wasn't "instant" hot water at those bathrooms. Of course, the valve may have been closed. I was too busy scratching my head to bother trying it. "Homemade tempering system"...I guess I'd have to ask why? Home was plain Jane 90's, 3 Br 1¾ Ba, apart from this set-up. Wouldn't it have been simpler to install a tempered tub/shower faucet system at the bathroom if they really needed it?

Your guess is as good as mine. [:-bigeyes This plumbing from the drain valve (20 year old water heater) went into the attic on this rambler, but I couldn't see where it went from there. No circ pump if that's anyone's guess. I think it may have gone to the laundry closet, but no idea why they would take it from the drain valve. Click to Enlarge 50.08 KB Click to Enlarge 54.32 KB Then there was the cold water feed to the water heater. A stop valve either side of the tee but none that would actually allow the water heater to be isolated for change-out and leave cold water to the house. Click to Enlarge 57.01 KB Maybe that is what this in the crawl is for... Click to Enlarge 42.72 KB I'm recommending the new water heater be installed by a licensed plumber who can figure out this mess. I'm thinking the water-heater-only guys would be as confused as I was.

Funny, I can't find any actual code. I have found a few references to using 22-guage 3/4" wide straps for various munis but without any code references. This might be your best bet, from the WA Dept of Health... Securing Your Water Heater It says to use "heavy-guage metal strapping" but also suggests "commercially available strapping kits" make things easier. Obviously, the rope is just plain wrong (screw whether the codes say so or not). For the $15-20 a strap kit costs, who is going to argue with you?

Jim, if you use two different gauge wires wouldn't it torque more on the larger wire leaving the smaller wire loose? Look at the photo I posted a little earlier. The Square-D top plate "floats" and is pushed down by the rounded underside of the screw. It will rock a bit side to side to accomodate different sized conductors. That's the Square-D...the Cutler Hammer version (photo below) is different and, IMO, doesn't look as capable as the Square-D. Click to Enlarge 84.44 KB

This is a QO breaker lug. I'm 99.99% certian they are exactly the same as the homeline ones. Click to Enlarge 44.06 KB

That would be enough for me to walk. Not much on stipulations. Kinda like buying a car, but you can't use the drivers window..[:-censore I should have put a smiley on that. I wasn't seriously suggesting it as the solution a home inspector should put in a report.

I would be more concerned about fumes and/or smoke entering the window than fire. I doubt that the guy on the left would enjoy the look of an extra 10 feet or so of chimney, even if it was paid for. Keep the window closed and install a CO detector?

I filled out the questionnaire and, evidently, I'm compatible on many levels with some blonde woman in Russia. Who knew?

The source of ignition needs to be 18" off the ground, not necessarily the whole furnace. It depends on the configuration and type of furnace. The manual should have that info. We might be able to help more with a photo.

Jim...do you think a regular IR thermometer, up close to the areas, would be sensitive enough to see a difference?

I don't want to say for sure that it's not ghosting, but it's an odd pattern for that and wouldn't be my first guess. The cross-hatching is weird. Going strictly from the photos, I'd say they used the world's worst ceiling painters. Or the homeowner tried to stretch half a gallon of paint over something that needed a full one. But Jim is probably right...he usually is.

Phillip, in the posting form (you get there by using the "reply to topic" button) you will see a little globe button on the format line at the top. If you hit that it will bring up a box for the text you wish to use and then one for pasting the link. Be sure to not double up the http:// bit. You may get a security alert asking you to allow scripts the first time. Allow them and hit the globe button again. If you look at this post now you can see that I added the same link below but with a short name..."textlink" textlink

LOL. I'm sure that's just a typo Mike, but it somehow sums up this thread.

While I can't agree that there is any justification for those few individuals deliberately falsifying evidence, for any end purpose, I applaud the rest of your post.

There's a fuller article here at http://plasticsnews.com/headlines2.html?id=17829 , and that has a direct link to the lawsuit document. I admit it smells but, as nothing has been proven yet, I'm going to reserve judgement. All I do know for sure is that, as usual, some lawyers are going to make a lot of money...no matter how it turns out.

Definitely not as much as conduit and I can't say that I like the stuff, but it is, and has been, allowed by the NEC unless "subject to physical damage". That last bit, like too much of the NEC (IMO) is open to interpretation and I'm sure that different AHJ's have their own rules on the stuff. The NEC describes SE cable as...Type SE. Service-entrance cable having a flame-retardant, moisture-resistant covering. The bottom line is that exposed type SE cable is allowed, whether you like it or not, unless specifically prohibited by the AHJ.