Richard Moore

David, the normal (never seen one different) set-up is for the air-cleaner to only have AC power when the blower is working, whether that's during normal heating/cooling or when the fresh air ventilation timer starts up the circulation. Of course it does need to have the switch on, but even then you will only see the filter power light come on when the blower is running. I have always assumed the filter electrical power is just connected to the same leads or terminals as the blower motor. On a side note, there are slots for the pre-filters above and below the large electrostatic ones. Make sure the pre-filters are up-stream, or first, in the air-flow. I usually include this link in the report for my clients... https://customer.honeywell.com/resource ... 9-0756.pdf

I see at least 4 steps or levels. How can they all be attached to the rim joist?

Not sure I wanted to see the re-muddle, Bill. The phrase "Nostalgia ain't what it used to be" comes to mind. I was at MOHAI (our Museum of History and Industry) on Sunday for my wife's UW Microbiology Dept Christmas brunch (don't ask). One 1919 exhibit photo in particular caught my eye. I managed to find it online. See http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm-m ... X=1&REC=10 . I imagine my 1927 house was built using wood from a similar stack (albeit fir), but it's the height that amazes me for all sorts of reasons; wind, seismic, not to mention the logistics and safety.

Download Attachment: AFCI_Recall.pdf 169.58?KB Not seeing many of these anymore, but they are still around. If the test button is blue, whenever the house was built, then the date code needs to be checked. I have found that they can be seen without "denergizing the panel" but the red ink is often very faded and unable to be read with the naked eye. So I take a few close-up photos with my camera. I have always been able to read them that way. The last ones I caught, back in May (listed as a 2005 house), I couldn't make up my mind if I was seeing CN or GN, but as both were recalled, no matter. Click to Enlarge 73.6 KB

I think the problem is that the "cylinder" valve isn't lifting and opening enough. Water is entering the bowl and reaching a level high enough to start the siphon effect but not fast enough to maintain the siphon and so the water is pulled low enough for air to enter. Eventually more water enters from the tank and starts the siphon again, etc, etc. My bet is that if you shortened the chain in the second photo, so that the valve lifted higher, you would get just the single forceful flush.

1st of all...Not Kurt. Yeah, they all call them chargers, but they really are just "stations". Whether it's the Leaf, Volt or the C-Max Energi, the actual charger (transformer?) is on-board. Not sure about the Tesla with their huge battery bank and their fast charge system. I am fully aware of the difference between BEVs (Leaf, Tesla, Focus Electric), PHEVs (Volt, Ford Energis, Prius Plug-in) and all the regular Hybrids. There is a C-max that is just a Hybrid, but the Energi model is a plug-in hybrid which can operate just like the Leaf, albeit for shorter distances, in all battery mode using household voltage to charge the larger section of the battery. The ICE (internal combustion engine) in a plug-in hybrid like the C-Max Energi spends a lot of the first few miles after a charge just sitting there as a heavy lump of metal at the front of the car, but it is instantly available to be used in addition to the big battery pack for extra oomph if needed or wanted. It's actually a fun drive. A plug-in hybrid is a compromise between an all electric car like the Leaf and a regular hybrid. More limited miles on battery alone but without the range anxiety that comes from having no back-up. I looked at them all and settled on the Ford as something we could both enjoy, and use for trips short and long. Frankly, it makes no sense at all financially, but the wife wanted to go electric for her commute. We have a "vehicle" that gets less than 2 miles to the gallon so perhaps this is making up for that a bit?

OK, so just last Friday I installed one of these myself, after a bunch of research. Not the Leaf one but a Clipper Creek LCS-25. Let me take John's last comment first. The wall unit is miss-named. It's a charging station, not a charger. The output is 240 volts AC, not DC. The actual charger is in the car, the unit on the wall is effectively a large on/off switch for the AC current. It has some other functions, but perhaps the primary one is to prevent the AC current just sitting in the cord until it it is plugged in and the car communicates with the box. The Leaf station is a 7.2 KW unit, capable of putting out a full 30 amps should the vehicle charger be capable of taking it. A 30-amp circuit/breaker would be too close to that, hence the 40-amp requirement. The Leaf car actually has a 6.6 KW on-board charger. The car I just bought for the wife is a plug-in hybrid, a Ford C-Max Energi with a smaller battery pack, but still capable of 21+ miles on battery alone (my record in the first few days we have had it is 22.4 before the hybrid engine had to start). It's perfect for her daily commute but also has an unlimited range on gas. Like a Chevy Volt. Anyway, the C-Max only has a 3.3 KW on-board charger (on 240 volt), about 14-amps. The Clipper creek can put out as much as 4.8 KW but our car will only demand the 3.3. Takes just over 2 hours to charge from empty as opposed to 7+ if I used the included 120-volt "charger". The LCS-25 calls for a 25-amp circuit for hard wire or a 30-amp for their plug-in model (same unit but portable). I could also plug into a Leaf or other larger charging station but, again, the draw is dependent on the charger demand in the car and the charge time would be the same. On the other hand, a Leaf could use my charging station but would be restricted by the station to 4.8 kw even though it can take 6.6. I don't know every in and out, but I do know that's how it works.

I don't get it. I too was made in 1949, am still in (mostly) functional condition, can also cook multiple items, and yet no one seems to wax poetic over me.

Nothing in that about brands, etc. I'd punt to the licensed sparky.

Silly people! Just leave the lever fully open, in the middle, and then you can control the water flow using the stop valves under the sink. This has the added advantage of exercising the lower back muscles as well as regularly viewing the trap piping for leaks. Or you could just trust that friction will likely remain stronger than gravity, especially as the lever in the closed position seems to be directly above the pivot point...but where's the ridiculous credential burnishing in that?

Not excusing what else is going on there, but the pigtail only has to be sized to the breaker, not the total possible load.

Ahhhh, Georgia! I guess it took them a while to decide whether or not those new-fangled guardrail thingies and ledger bolts were just a Yankee plot(?).

Small 1959 rambler, burbs north of Seattle, currently on natural gas. There were 3 irrigation control boxes at the front of the house. Two contained normal irrigation valves and a backflow device but the third, very close to the foundation, had this... Click to Enlarge 108.49 KB Click to Enlarge 73.31 KB In the 2nd photo (with my finger holding the spring loaded cap open) you see some rusty device hose clamped to the valve (no idea on that either). I have seen maybe 3 above ground propane tanks total during my HI career. Certainly never seen a buried one. Is that was this is or was? It doesn't seem like the best idea to have a buried LP tank right next to a home with a crawl space. My other thought, because it was inside an irrigation style box, is that it could be a compressed air connection to winterize the irrigation system??? BTW, the crawl hatch on this one was like some devilish Venus Inspector Trap. I had to use sticks to prop open the springy, sharp edged mesh that was secured at the house wall. I could barely squeeze into the opening and, once in, no more than about 8 feet in any direction due to pipes and ducts in the nasty shallow crawl. File under "Stuff I Won't Miss". Click to Enlarge 80.74 KB

Might be a Cicada. I have read that this is THE year in their 17 year cycle. Evidently you guys back east can expect about a bizillion more over the next few weeks.

Taking Chad's calculations a bit further, that would require the flow to a 1.6 gallon toilet able to refill the whole 1.6 gallons in 12.45 seconds. I guess that is possible, but its about twice as fast as mine refill and would presumably be quite a bit noisier. As you have to believe the OP would have noticed that at some time during the 90 days, I think we can rule out the whole leaky toilet thing.

Sorry, seems that the Thor, along with many other original details, has gone. See http://www.lustronpreservation.org/loun ... le?id=2091

Wow...many of the remaining ones are listed on the National Register of Historic Places Wikipedia has a good section on them. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lustron_house There a bunch of cool links towards the bottom, including http://www.lustronpreservation.org/ which has lots of info, including old ads, etc.

You can feed the second chime directly from the first with double bell wire running from the same terminals at the first to the second (pos to pos, neg to neg) . It's a simple parallel connection. I found this diagram online, not the best but it works. Click to Enlarge 15.67 KB I'm assuming the transformer can handle the extra load (I doubt that would be an issue).

Are there times when it's not there? Do you expect it to occasionally wander around the house? Would it really be going too far out on a limb to simply state "the electrical panel is directly over the kitchen sink"?

Hmmm, a BB size hole in anything in Georgia? Occam's razor would suggest some southern boy shot the damn thing with a BB gun. But...probably just a small impurity in the sheet metal of that particular tank caused the pinhole leak. Or maybe they didn't flush the lines before installing it and some reactive debris came to rest at that spot of the innards. Whatever, it's gawn bad.

I have edited a couple of "cheap shots" out of this thread. We welcome trade professionals to this forum and respect their opinions, even if we don't always agree with them. Let's keep it civil, everyone.

When I go out to my truck I'll take a pic of a C-H CH breaker for you. My reference is that I know it from experience. Look at the catalogue. The CH115 breakers are the only Cutler Hammer breakers that can accept two wires. They have this information molded onto the side of the case. The double-tapped breakers in the original post are not CH115 breakers. Download Attachment: CHbreakers Catalogue Page.jpg 92.26?KB Just have to correct that bit, given that it was my highlighting I posted (somewhere?) many moons ago. It's not just the CH115...it's all in that upper box, CH110 thru CH130. The shaded "(2) #14-10" just happens to be on the same line as the CH115, but it applies to all five of those. Also all the 2-pole breakers in the same section (CH210 thru CH230).

Jerry, the emitter and sensor don't function with a laser thin beam. The actual working angle probably varies from model to model, but within that angle, they just need line of sight. Given the distance across a double door, I'm not too surprised a set would still work without being aimed more directly. BTW, that looks a lot closer to 2' than 3'. Still wrong, but we are now just talking about 18" difference across a 12' opening.

Although this is NM country, I don't think I have ever seen a gas furnace installed with anything other than hardwired armored cable for the 120-volt supply. No one, even in the worst of homes. An appliance cord set to a receptacle might be kosher(?), but I'm pretty sure I have never come across that. Kurt's exposed NM must be a Harry Homeowner install.

Might taste like chicken(?). http://www.mushroom-appreciation.com/ch ... woods.html