Richard Moore

I was reporting on sewer gases/gasses entering a basement today and suddenly couldn't make up my mind if it was "gases" or "gasses". A quick check online left me with the impression that "gases" is the preferred plural but that "gasses" is also acceptable, especially in the US. Dumb thing is that now BOTH look wrong to me! Not a big deal, but I'm curious what you go with.

Note to architect: If you come up with some detail that nobody else uses, it's not necessarily genius on your part. Chances are that it's actually an idea that others have dismissed, with good reason, as stupid.

My knowledge and smooth tone mannerism, affords me the edge... Somewhere, a sleazy used car lot is missing one of its salesmen.

Hi again... So I dug a little and found that it is in fact covered by the State's VIAQ codes for high risk areas/counties. You can see the requirements here... http://www.spokanecounty.org/loaddoc.aspx?docid=2265 Good thing I don't travel too far, eh? Look at the difference in the Radon Pie Charts for Spokane and King County. http://county-radon.info/WA/Spokane.html http://county-radon.info/WA/King.html I've always believed we have low levels here because our "soil" is mostly glacial till rather than bedrock.

What's Radon? Seriously though, not as far as I'm aware of for this area (always willing to be corrected). And, I can't speak for the red zones in the lower left or upper right corners of the state. Click to Enlarge 25.89 KB Wouldn't it be more likely to be local/county requirements?

I'm in the giving-the-agent-something-to-do category. Attic access closets and also those under-stairs crawl hatches. I find the problem ones during the first quickie walk around and, if it's more than a simple box or two, ask the buyer's agent to clear it out while I'm doing the exterior. If it's something weird or fragile I suggest they call the listing agent for permission. In my experience, the agents are happy to oblige. The last thing they want is a delay caused by lack of access and an "evaluate further". I also have them put the stuff back after. I can't break it if I don't touch it.

It has white retaining clip.

T Grrrr

Yep...horrible, awful place. Don't come here! []

Along the same lines my initial thought was a Nudibranch. Just how wet was that crawlspace? Click to Enlarge 44.6 KB

I'm not suggesting anything, so don't get worked up. But . . . have the Docs performed a blood test lately to make certain your Lithium dose is where it needs to be? I like Jim's style. Very critical to minute details, hits the nail right on the head, without being rude or caustic. It elevates the performance of the forum. Just MHO. Marc You can always trust Mr. Katen to bring this forum to a new level of grapeness by raisin awareness of currant affairs.

Yep. I'm still using Word 2003 (Office XP) on my office computer. I recently bought a Windows 7 laptop so I could work on the boat. It didn't come with Office so I installed the old Office XP programs from the original CD. Works great and I don't have to deal with Word 2010 issues...whatever those are.

Is that solid wood flooring being installed over plywood or an "engineered" product (as in B.cherry over a plywood base)? I did my 2nd floor after our remodel with SunFloor's 5½ "engineered" Brazilian Cherry, glued together (not down) and floated over cork panels. 3 rooms, a hallway and a walk-in closet. I made my own transitions, thresholds, etc. 3+ years later and not a gap or a cup anywhere. Glue down was an option for the product but seemed like it could be very messy. The glue together/float method let me take my time. I'm fairly certain that glue & nail was not a recommended option for that particular product. This was my one and only experience installing wood flooring of any kind, so I'm no expert, but I'm very happy with the result. BTW, "Brazilian Cherry" is actually Jatoba, a very, very hard wood. It's holding up well to my 100lb dog's nails.

The picture is of the 15.5' model (rated at 250lb). Also, as Rob said, the max rating is 300lbs for a "contractor grade" 12.5' model which is much heavier ladder than the 24lb quoted. I'm really not sure what that all adds up to. A knock-off, or someone who has gotten hold of a bunch on the cheap and just doesn't know he's talking about? My bet would be the latter. BTW...if you put "extend & climb" into E-bays search box there are also some at $93.99 or under $120 with shipping. It looks like the same guy though. Maybe 3 or 4 years ago, I found a vendor with Telesteps on sale for $100. I bought 2, sold one, and kept the other as a backup (still unused). They sure seem like the real thing. I should have bought more. I would say at $120, it's worth the gamble. Just don't expect the heavy duty model.

OK. Then I think you have to use shims or you would have a lot of weight right on the edge of the leveling compound, which would probably just crumble. Be sure to allow for the height of the shims when installing the rear ledge support stringer. And, as we always tell our clients, RTFM!

I have never used or needed a floor leveling compound but, if I had your option of doing the whole empty room or trying to level neatly up to an installed tub, I would definitely go with the former. As for the product to use...if you are buying the tile from a tile/flooring specialty store I would follow their advice. If from Depot de Maison, well, maybe someone else can help you.

Similar, but I did that one just for you guys. I can't find my copy of the USC (Uniform Skylight Code), but it's a very thin book and I'm fairly certain all it says is "Think before you cut that hole you numbskull!"

OK. Really dumb place to put the skylight to the converted attic bedroom. It's even on the prevailing wind side. Nice for a breeze if you're into sewer gasses. Click to Enlarge 101.19 KB I have no problem calling it but I'll admit having to look up and check the actual recommended clearances (old head, limited storage space). Anyway...this leads me to IRC P3103.5, which I'm suddenly finding a bit weird, although it really has nothing to do with this particular house. "P3103.5 Location of vent terminal. An open vent terminal from a drainage system shall not be located less than 4 feet (1219 mm) directly beneath any door, openable window, or other air intake opening of the building or of an adjacent building, nor shall any such vent terminal be within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally of such an opening unless it is at least 2 feet (610 mm) above the top of such opening." Am I reading that correctly. It would be OK (IRC code) to have a vent terminating 4'1" directly below an openable bedroom window??? I realize it couldn't be the main vent as that is still required to be above the roof...but, really? Anything 4' or less, but 9'11" off to the side would need to be 2' above the window? The blue bit makes sense, but the red seems to allow something I wouldn't want in my house, even if it was only a secondary vent. I should point out that this house would use the UPC which doesn't allow allow any vent beneath an opening. Their simpler rules make more sense...3' above or 10' horizontal.

I think "straight out" is a misnomer. Although I haven't seen any videos of actual collapses, I would bet that they usually start at one end of the house attachment, due to twist or sway, and then progress rapidly along the ledger (or where the ledger should be). It was my "zipper" analogy is a previous post. I'm also not sure this is the greatest analogy but, think about prying up nailed down floorboards. You would never attempt to just pry a board as a whole straight up but, once you get a bar under one end, it takes relatively little effort to work the whole thing loose "sequentially". Good diagonal bracing will reduce some forces but but will it be enough for that crowd of yahoos who all suddenly rush to the railing when someone in the back yard yells "Titties"? (can I say that?) In answer to your "do you feel that a deck will pull straight out of the house wall when hangers are nailed through the siding?" I'm not saying "will", but I would say more likely, yes. "Couldn't you just toe nail the joists to the nailer below, or add some type of clip or mechanical fastener? I'm just trying to thinks up a bare min. , code allowed repair here....." I'm sure it would all help...a bit(?). But, as for "code allowed"???? I guess what it comes down to for me is that there would be no way I would build a deck that way, with or without added pieces later. Recommend adding diagonal or knee braces, fine, but I'm not about to tell a client to start throwing odds and ends at a ledger area to try to get it as safe as if it had been built properly in the first place. It would be stupid for me to say it can't be done, no way, no how, but I do know I'm not going to be the one to design or bless it. There is one interesting point that doesn't seem to come up much but, in my mind, is also an important feature. In a previous existence I have built a good number of decks. I always carefully planned the width so I would need only full width decking, allowing for spacing. The full width deck board against the house gets screwed not only into the joists but also to the ledger through the flashing. This further ties the joists to the ledger which, of course, should be properly secured to the house. Robert's deck is also missing that.

How will that prevent the deck pulling away from the house? From what I read that is the by far the single most cause of catastrophic deck failure. For a second story deck like this the options (if we ignore a massive free-standing deck) are extended floor joists or a a properly secured ledger board. As it doesn't appear that we have the former, we need a ledger board. I would be very surprised to see any modern code say different. http://ezinearticles.com/?Deck-Safety-- ... id=4333542 http://www.roanoke.com/news/roanoke/wb/247213 A nailer would not have helped that second one.

Right now the deck is only secured to the home with nails through the joist hangers. Who knows how far they penetrated the sheathing into something more solid or if those penetrations are already weak from moisture and rot. What you are recommending will help the vertical load at the house but that's not the main concern. It's the lateral attachment and the chances of it pulling away, especially with a load of inebriated people on it, and then collapsing out and down. I could imagine a failure at one corner sequentially "unzipping" the joists from the house Robert, with all due respect, it don't mean a damn thang if the house is as is or a repo. We are supposed to tell them it's wrong and then either how to do it completely right, or, tell them to find an expert who can. You are entering dangerous territory with a "bit more secure". Would I call this? You Betcha! I might try to soften the blow by telling them "Bad news is that the deck needs to be rebuilt for safety. Good new...at least you can design your own deck after tearing this one down."

BTW, if you do end up with a Telesteps I have a good "upgrade". I used to go through the rubber feet quite quickly (every 6 months or so). It was due to the tube ends being sharp and cutting through the rubber at the ground contact point. I fixed that by first smoothing the ends with emory cloth and then applying 4 or 5 thicknesses of electrical tape over the ends. I've had the same set of feet on for the last 3 years now. The tape also better secures the feet so they don't pull off easily if you hook them on something. I've not had a problem with getting it wet although it did freeze up on me once. I took it inside the house and it was fine 10 minutes later. I clean and silicone spray the tubes once a year...if that. Marc, I just don't find that I have much need for a step ladder. There are occasions where I will, carefully, borrow a chair for a little extra height (checking a light fixture for power, etc). I do have the Little Giant if I really need one.

I've been using the same 12½' Telesteps for the last 6 years or so, with zero problems. I know some think it's a tad "flexy", but I don't have a problem with it. I do also carry a 21' Little Giant, but that stays on the car more times than not as I can get on the vast majority of roofs around here using just the Telesteps (your mileage may vary). Even if you only use it inside it is a worthwhile investment, especially for those tight, inside-a-closet, attic hatches. IMO, you'll soon be kicking yourself for not getting one earlier. I have no experience with the other brand (Extend and Climb) but I can't see how it could be any easier to use.

This is a line from a Rinnai trouble-shooting guide... "Check for low water flow in a circulating system causing short-cycling." I would guess from that that a circulating system is an option. Could there perhaps be air in the hot water lines of this vacant house causing erratic circ pump operation which, in turn, might trigger the water flow sensor at the unit? That's kind of a rhetorical question. Report it as behaving in a manner unfamiliar to you (or something like that) and recommend they have a Rinnai service tech check it out.

Douglas, Is it possible that one of the ATS's could be switched or modified to disable the generator test/start/stop functions, enabling the use of a single generator? The manual doesn't seem to suggest that but I suppose there could be different configurations or units under the covers. Not that I'm ever likely to see this particular set-up...just curious.