Richard Moore

The blurry photo does seem to say 70 on the toggle, but has anyone seen a double width 70-amp breaker like that before?

I didn't see UF on it. Odd looking cable. The conductors actually looked undersized (less than 14) at the breakers so I was forced to read the embossed labelling. Tough to read but I did make out "xxxx America xxxx Plastic xxxx 14-2 NM" (xxxx being unknown).

Really! Now I thought you guys just instigated all sorts of so-called "moderation". I don't oppose free speech...IN IT'S PLACE. We have rules here to maintain civility and professionalism among those we recognize probably have differing views on politics and religion. Basically, we just don't allow those conversations to start. Your Misc forum has become little more than a soapbox for a small, and very regular, handful to spew their knee-jerk biased views. If I were a member, I would be embarrassed to have a link to that public mess in case my clients happened upon it...no matter what their, or my politics. If you don't like the rules here, please feel free not to visit. As far as emigrating, I did that, thank you. I chose and choose to live here!

Hopefully someone will delete the previous, but before they do... Mr. Ferry, Please save that crap for the Redneck Misc forum over at Nick's place. It's not welcome here!!!

I agree with Mike about the slope/loop/whatever being OK but...ummm...what weatherhead? I'm certain that it's not kosher to have the SECs entering a hole like that! Click to Enlarge 16.44 KB

Jim may have the best answers but I think he will be the first to say that everyone's input is worthwhile...and appreciated! OK, the second...after me. []

This threw me for a bit today. 1965 home with some older looking 14-2+g NM cable that had been split after entering the panel, but the split sheathing had been left in place. I had to look close to see that there actually was insulated conductors within the sheathing. I have some other issues within the panel, but is there any harm in leaving the sheathing in place like this? Click to Enlarge 35.8 KB Click to Enlarge 51.58 KB

Good point!

Also like Flukes. Randy, in case you haven't found them, Stoneway Electric carries most of the better brands of the electrical testers we use (Ideal, Fluke, etc) and has very good prices. Your closest branch might be Totem Lake.

John, what Jim said. If you google "carpet static" the general consensus seems to be that some materials (nylon, etc) might be a little more conducive to static but, by far, humidity or lack of it is the major factor. The odd thing is that I wouldn't think of March as being one of the times this would normally occur, even back your way. Any reason to suspect they have been running dehumidifiers or the AC more than the norm?

Hi Jim, No problem with that wherever insulation is damaged, but do you think the discolored grounding conductors actually need replacing? My experience metal-working with copper is that extreme heat makes the material more malleable and easier to work. I wouldn't think it would affect the conducting properties(?).

Ahhh, could be! It does still look like arcing emanating from that general area. In any case, once the electrician has done whatever is needed, there will probably be some remaining discoloration that will give the next inspector pause when your clients eventually sell the house. You might suggest that your clients get documentation from the electrician, fully detailing the repairs and any remaining marks, and tape that to the side of the panel. Frankly, I'm not sure that would satisfy me as the future inspector, but it would help.

Rob, in your first photo, there's a conductor that almost appears to be welded to the panel. It doesn't look like it goes anywhere. I'd say they had a major short at some time, probably when someone was working on the panel. All might (stress might) be OK now but I don't see any choice but to defer to an electrician for a thorough check of the panel and associated circuit wiring. Click to Enlarge 75.15 KB

...and despite you telling all concerned that that is ALL you are really going to re-inspect, and despite you telling all concerned that the underlying issue still hasn't been properly assessed or addressed by the qualified professionas or trades, you know who is going to get blamed when the crawl floods again or a related foundation problem occurs, don't you? On a scale of 1 -10 of items I'd be willing to re-inspect, and with 10 being "I don't want to go there", flooded crawls would come in somewhere around 15! Maybe I'm being a little cynical here, but it seems that the agent might not have the clients best interest in mind and just wants you to say enough nice things so the deal goes through. I guess I'd call your clients, the buyers, and explain once again what they actually need. I see no obligation to bless anything for the agent. I don't think the fee, half or full, is worth the hassle.

Bad use of the word "professional"! To answer one of your questions, there are diaphragm switched sump pumps with no obvious float. See.. http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/SP330D-Sumpe-Pump & http://www.sump-pump-info.com/float-switches.html Can't say I've ever seen one. You say yours was running continuously but dry. I'm surprised it hasn't burnt out yet...but it will.

You think this was a professional install? Sounds more like a DIY job. Did there happen to be a fountain or a pond with a waterfall outside missing a pump? Many of your questions seem a little rhetorical. []

Looking at the photos and going by the newspapers, I'd say your guess of 1958 (or a wee bit earlier) is probably right. Out of curiosity, when was the last time you had the beast inspected and serviced...and what did the tech say?

There does seem to be a lack of info on these. The best I can come up with is that it's probably 1982 or older but that's only based on a couple of people thinking they stopped making them then. Someone else might be able to find it in the Preston guide but they will likely need model AND serial number. Even better would be photos of any and all data plates on the unit. There may be other clues to its age.

I thought about putting this in the Washington only section but thought it might be of interest to others. Had a condo complex in downtown seattle with a rolling security gate to the above ground parking area (no garage). The client was concerned about power outages and whether there would be a way to get his car out (or in) during one. There was no (obvious) manual disconnect and, as I couldn't open the control box, I don't know if there was a battery back-up installed. I recommended he talk to the HOA and/or builder for more info. Here's my question. I Googled around and did find some individual communities that require a manual opening means and emergency power, but I can't seem to find anything national or for Seattle, King County or the state. Anyone know if there is such a code? I'm not too concerned about the fire department as I'm fairly sure they have their ways with these (cut the chain, drive the truck into it, etc, etc).

Dunno, but I'm sure this isn't a good idea. Click to Enlarge 47.62 KB

So...some Square-D breakers are designed to be double-tapped, therefore you can tap the main lugs like that? Great logic! Is that also his reasoning for the multi-tapped neutrals? Jodi, hopefully there's a higher designation than "Master" for electricians in your area.

It's Photoscape. Someone here, it may have been Tom above, recommended it a few months back. I downloaded it, found it easier to use than my previous program, and have been using it ever since.

HUD owned, horrible POS today. According to the FHA inspection forms, this roof was in satisfactory condition...[:-bigeyes Click to Enlarge 73.92 KB Click to Enlarge 92.08 KB Click to Enlarge 94.62 KB Click to Enlarge 84.07 KB Click to Enlarge 70.42 KB Due to this, swollen hardboard siding, rotted decks, interior mold, etc, etc, and an incredible amount of fresh rat droppings on every flat surface in every room I easily talked the client into only paying me half and we all went home early. I'll recoup that later. I really didn't mind as I was not looking forward to the infested crawl.

No, on Federal Ave, in Capitol Hill, the ArtHaus.

Had one of those combo, ventless, washer dryers today in a closet of an old apartment building gone condo. Really no easy way to vent a regular dryer. Click to Enlarge 47.81 KB Might be only the second one I've ever seen. I understood just enough to explain it condensed the moisture and then pumped it out but I really didn't know how it worked. I found this at the manufacturer's web-site that might help me, and maybe others here, be just a little more knowledgable next time. http://www.lgwasherdryer.com/pdf/condensing_dryers.pdf