Richard Moore

From the EPA at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/co.html . I obviously don't know exactly what the tech said but, equally obviously, it was enough (or too little?) to needlessly worry the couple into calling me.

I just had a rather strange call from a previous client (I had inspected their new house 2 years ago). It seems that they had just had a HVAC guy in to service their 2 year old furnace. The tech took it upon himself to inform the clients that he was measuring “raisedâ€

Just a WAG, but I wonder if you may have some poorly nailed and sprung decking from the re-roof that the wind is forcing down.

You might try contacting Heat Controller, the manufacturer of your furnace, directly. Their contact info is at http://www.heatcontroller.com/contact.php .

"I punted, as well, so maybe I"m biased--but I think you handled the situation correctly." Yep, but I just wish I had more confidence that whatever sparky they end up with will actually have any better knowledge of CCA and be able and willing to give them an objective opinion. Oh well!

I had my first CCA yesterday in a 1976 home. Here's a photo of some of the ends at the neutral/ground bar. Download Attachment: 081228J046x.jpg 114.62 KB Aside from the doubled neutrals, everything else was OK, the conductors sized correctly (10s & 12s instead of 12s & 14s). I had read some about the stuff but, in digging deeper, I came across this at the Inspect-NY site. http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum/alreduce.pdf The relevant section below... So now I'm confused! I've seen plenty of HIs "suggest" it should be treated just like regular solid Al but this seems to be a rare, actually definitive, statement about the stuff. This is what I ended up putting in the report...

Thanks for the link, Chad. Mike's house was 8 years old and had forced air heating. I realize PEX has been in use for longer (radiant heat, etc), but I've never seen it used for general distribution plumbing around here any earlier than when copper prices shot through the roof. That was, what, 4 or 5 years ago?

I didn't mention PEX because, at 8 years old, I thought it was a little "early" for it. But, now that you do, you have me wondering about how the various fittings, especially the crimp rings, handle freezing. As in whether they can loosen or not? Anyone with experience of PEX plumbing freeze failure and, if so, where it is most likely to happen?

Sounds like you earnt your paycheck, Mike. I know all will bust but, out of curiosity, CPVC or copper? I have a couple of houses booked myself for this weekend. Both are staged so I assume they have been vacant for a while. I see enough hoses left on vacated homes' hose-bibs that I'm wondering what the odds are that I'll find one in similar condition. I hope not, for my clients sakes, but I may have to borrow your list if I do!

"Do you recommend upgrading to a newer wiring system when the old WILL work? Your thoughts?" Jodi, are you sure the old will work when the new family puts all sorts of different loads on the system. 120-amps for 5400sf! 11 sub-panels off of a pair of 60-amp panels!!! I think we would all be reporting this as "undersized by modern standards" and "FUBAR" in a variety of language. I'm sure you feel the same way. Your clients are paying for your opinion, so why not just give it to them. Let me turn this back on you a bit. What do YOU think you should say?

Interesting! Also seems you can use a normal thermostat or a two-stage one. If using a normal (single stage) thermostat, the furnace runs on low for the first 12 minutes and then, if the thermostat is not satisfied, kicks in the higher burn rate. Operation with a special two-stage thermostat is, ummm, different. You can read about the two modes of operation at http://www.heatcontroller.com/products/ ... %20IOM.pdf , pages 39 and 40. So I wonder what thermostat Froggy has and if he knows about the 12 minute delay if it's an ordinary one. And, of course, he may actually have a controller problem of some sort.

What others said. The only other thing I can think of is...Is it an older house with long runs of un-insulated ducts (supply and/or return) in unconditioned areas (crawl, attic)?

You can also order his book "How to inspect your home before selling" at http://basichomeinspection.com/6.html . I can almost hear "But wait...there's more!"

I don't know what "safety" purpose such a prohibition would serve, unless you also can't have any faucets on the hot side that are actually capable of being shut off....which, of course, is nuts. It makes sense that, if I have one isolation valve, then I want it on the inlet side so that I still have cold water to the home if the water heater needs changing. I just can't see the harm, or at least any more harm, in having a second on the outlet side.

Thanks Jim. I think in future I'll use the term electromagnetic field (EMF) as that includes both types. My knowledge of how to use electricty safely isn't too bad but I'll be the first to admit I'm weak when it comes to the theory behind the "magical" invisible force. This is an interesting read... http://www.who.int/peh-emf/about/WhatisEMF/en/ It helps, but there is much of it that makes my head hurt!

I think we can guarantee that the copper piping in the porch has no connectivity to a grounding electrode; even if there was one(?). If the washing machine was running when you got these results... Washing machine is not grounded (2-prong receptacle, etc, etc) and you are reading the magnetic field at the washer which is also travelling along the braided SS hoses and the copper lines to the water heater. If it wasn't running then I would suspect the same as above with the added extra that the washer receptacle has reversed polarity. In either case, I doubt there is any actual voltage as you were able to "drain" the field by simply touching either appliance. Kind of the same thing you can do with an ungrounded toaster or ceiling fan(try it). With the fuse box, KT, and amatuer wiring, it sounds like the home is overdue for a new, properly grounded service and new circuit wiring. I'd report it as (further) evidence of the lack of modern grounding and bonding and suggest they get some quotes for complete electrical upgrade. Or summit like dat!

I'd have to say I would be surprised to find that up here. Every 20's house I can remember, including my own '27, has ship-lap sheathing under the siding. At some point before we bought our house, it had had cellulose blown into the wall cavities. A couple of rooms that I subsequently remodeled required stripping the lathe and plaster. There were some smaller voids in the insulation near windows, etc, but it was otherwise amazingly complete. I really have no idea of the cost benefits as that would depend on the windows, other insulation, drafts, etc and how long you think you will keep the house.

I'm with Kurt there as far as using 1/2" drywall, extensions, and adding reveals. Stepping the extensions and trim (1/8" to 1/4") will give the windows and doors more "interest" and you won't be trying to fill and sand to achieve a flush look. It's what I'd do. Unfortunately, if you do that, the original side and top trim pieces will now be too short. But...if you don't mind buying a few new pieces of 1-by, then no problem. Hell...add some brick molding (actually "backband") for an even better look. Image Insert: 125.7 KB

You want joist hangers at the ledger board attached to the house, but the most commonly designed deck is cantilevered at the outboard side and has the joists resting on and supported by a beam. The joists are then supporting the rim joist which is typically just nailed. Hangers don't work well when the forces are reversed. There are, of course, different and more complex designs. Basically, if a joist is attached to a supporting member, then it should have a hanger at that point...but not if it is itself providing support. That make sense? There are tie-downs and other "strong-ties" that might be used in places, but I'm assuming you were talking about joist hangers. There's this which is a good read... http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6.pdf And/or go down to the big box store and get yourself a "how to" book on decks. They cover most common designs.

Mike, I'll take you word for that. I might be seeing the shadows. I don't know if you have access to higher def photos, but anything beyond 400% and I'm too pixelated to make anything out. Note to self: Go easy on the Pixel! [:-drunk]

"The device attached to the rim of the damper is an interconnect safety switch; if the flue becomes clogged and hot gas starts backing up out of that damper it will shut the furnace down." Unless my eyes are deceiving me, it looks like that wire is no longer connected to anything. It seems to loop back where the oil lines have been capped and is just stuck to the bx at the lowest electrical tape. Image Insert: 38.7 KB

I voted #3 'cos I use an IR thermometer that just happens to have a laser. I think the laser bit is only good for confusing cats though.

Maybe you should add "I probe for rot using a custom tool". Personally I use my trusty "pointy stick", a quick action, heavy duty, telescoping painters pole, with a cut-off paint roller frame sharpened to a chisel point. Handle filled with expoxy to make it rock solid. Enables me to probe everything from higher eaves to rim-joists in crawls and doubles as a cobweb remover in the crawls. Might also be useful for fighting off racoons, but I've never had that "pleasure" yet. Mike...wassup with all the polls? You suffering from election withdrawal?

"Once again I guess I've failed to communicate very well. Sorry." No, not at all! In fact, with Phillip's trap being at a carport closet, it could be subject to freezing (Alabama?) and potentially the same as having no TPR at all. Perhaps I was just thinking out loud, but related drift is, well, related. So, no, I don't see the need to start a new thread everytime.

Mike, I agree with that last sentence as far as reporting it. No problem. Actually, I thought I'd made that clear(?). But, you seem to be suggesting that this forum isn't the place to be trotting out the gray matter for a little exercise on the physics and reasoning behind codes. I sure hope that wasn't your intent. I already spend enough time in a mindless stupor!