Richard Moore

I've never seen EIFS with that rough a texture. Are you sure it's not just a "decorative" stucco job over the original brick using fiberglass mesh as the backer? It's still really crappy work that needs fixing, but it just doesn't look like the EIFS I see around here.

Yep...my bad. Thanks. I had the second half of the sentence right and it's obviously nonsense the way I wrote it. [:-ashamed Editing...

Steven, where are you getting that 2 feet? UPC has the maximum length of the trap arm (flange to vent) for a WC at 6' and the IRC has it as "shall not be limited". UPC and IRC allow a sanitary tee to be used only for horizontal to vertical connections, and not on it's back like that (vertical to horizontal). Both "tees" should be a wye or a combo. John D, Jr...both are wrong, as you called it. Presumably, both could lead to easier clogging. Unfortunately, my "knowledge" of hydrodynamics and waterborne solids leads me to having no idea how much easier or the severity of the problem. But...wrong is wrong.

Thank you sir. There's now a cold beer in the fridge with your name on it.

Had a Trane XL90 furnace today, strangely with no data plate/sticker anywhere to be found, inside or out. The home was 1981 but had a Trane A/C unit from 5/1989. All I could find was the following table on the wiring label on the cover panel... Image Insert: 32.48 KB ...so I assume it's one of those models. I've tried googling variations of the models without any success at all. Unit was serviced in January this year and ran without problems. My gut tells me it was newer than 1981 but I was wondering if anyone in TIJland could tell by the model numbers alone? Thanks (maybe),

Yeah. I'm not sure of the proper name, but it looks like someone got cheap and left off the moldings. Gonna have some nice scuff marks on the drywall after a few vacuumings. Image Insert: 76.78 KB

The efficiency looks very good but I wish they had a bit more confidence in the product and offered a better warranty. 1 year parts and 10 years for the "high grade" stainless steel tank doesn't get me too excited about the quality. I did a quick check for prices on-line and found the 50 gallon units at around $4,000(?). That's a chunk-o-money and it would be nice to be assured the life expectancy is MUCH greater than a "regular" unit.

I averaged just under 30 miles, total, per inspection last year. Assuming I'm doing the same this year my extra fuel expense, even at $5 a gallon compared to say $3, is less than $3 per inspection. I can "absorb" that. I guess I could charge more for the longer distances (although I rarely stray too far) but it just seems like "nickel and diming" to me. I prefer to just quote a simple fee and stick to it. I do normally bump my fees a bit each year but, due to the slow market, I have held off on that so far this year. Once it gets back to normal and I find myself having to regularly turn down work, I'll then incorporate the added gas costs into a fee hike. But, that's me. Your mileage [] may vary!

Here's a comparison photo of one manufacturer's (Genova) PVC vent and sanitary elbows. Image Insert: 37.81 KB The ones in Gary's photos actually look more like the sanitary ells rather than the vent type. But talking about those photos, Chad mentioned the AAV has to be a minimum of 4" above the weir (and vertical). That's correct, but it would still be wrong as long as the take-off is that lower wye. Air has to be admitted at the trap arm level either by teeing off the trap arm itself or from above the connection to the vertical drain. Image Insert: 43.76 KB Any configuration other than those two is probably wrong.

There may be a very few things I would feel the need to immediately contact the seller or their agent about (gas leak, burst water pipe, etc), or have the buyer's agent do that, but if we had to notify the homeowner about every hazard (electrical and others) we found, we would probably be making those calls after every inspection. We are not doing a safety inspection for the existing homeowner. In fact you are probably exposing your butt more by contacting them about SOME safety issues and not ALL. The line has to be drawn somewhere and I'm with Mike on this. Your job and responsibility is to report the hazards and needed repairs to your client.

From a GE site...(my bold)

There may be some confusion here. I think Randy's first answer is talking about the AAV replacing an island loop vent for the sink drain rather than the high loop for the dishwasher drain line. The full question was "Question for you all - Having a studor valve installed under the kitchen sink does not remove the need for a high loop or air gap in the drain line for a dishwasher draining into garbage disposals, correct??". And the answer to that would be...No, it does not. As for B: AAVs admit air but, by design, do not allow gasses to escape. If there was an overpressure situation in the sewer line, that excess pressure could not be relieved if all vents were AAVs. In an extreme case, gasses might bubble past the traps. With at least one venting freely to the outdoors, any excess pressure in the house DWV system would be relieved. I honestly don't know if that's the "official" reason, but it makes sense in my head.

"...the contractor disabled the Whole House Ventilation System" Brad, what do you mean by "disabled"? I would expect a 3 year old Trilogy home has a timer near the furnace that controls a fresh air intake damper and one of the exhaust fans (guest bath or laundry). Most of these timers have a simple switch on them that allows them to be turned off (without changing the programming keys). I can see that you might not want or need as much warm "fresh" air drawn into the house while the A/C is on, but disabling the whole thing so it can't be used at other times...well, that's nuts. Did they nail all the windows and doors shut because opening any of those with the A/C on would also "void the air conditioner warranty"?

I see poison packs and the "normal" rat/mouse traps all the time. In 6 years now, I've never seen these before. Odd! "Luck of the draw" I guess. Chad...I read in my research that vegetable oil works for freeing stuck critters. I assume that would include kitties.

Just in case anyone didn't know it, Mike doesn't have much of a liking for the small furry critters. Evidently there's something about Disneyland, a very large mouse, and a pair of soiled britches in his past. It was many years ago (I think he was a mere 30 something at the time) but he just hasn't gotten over it.

"Then the sellers agent said it should be grandfathered..." LOL...that opener looks very new, say 10 years old at most. Any "grandfathering" (cough...BS) ended when they installed it.

I was just kidding about the PETA thing. Should have put a wink icon in there.

It will work, but you will have to take it loose to move the stove out. Its not what the manufacture sends with the stove. The normal bracket probably got tossed in a drawer and lost, so they improvised. With all that space behind the stove (range) I don't see it as a huge problem either. I'd show the client the photo, tell them it's not the listed device, that they would have to unscrew it to move the range, but that it looks like it will do the job. Then I'd leave it up to them to decide if they want to pursue the matter further and move on to bigger fish. But...Why is there that much space? I'm having a hard time picturing that set-up.

Had a largish 1995 home today. Nice big tall attic with rodent runs in the insulation everywhere. Mice, judging from the small droppings. Here's the thing...there were about a dozen plastic trays in the attic (and a few in the crawl) filled with a glue substance. I'd never seen these before. No bait and the only think trapped in them all was one bee and, unfortunately, a swallow. At the time I thought they were for insects, but a little googling came up with a variety of "Glue Traps" for rodents as well as some disturbing descriptions of mice chewing their legs off to get out of these "slow death" devices. Evidently they are banned in many communities, areas, and some whole countries, which I think is a good thing! I have no love of rodents, but I'm also not a sadist. Anyway, my quandry now is that I suppose these were stuck up here previously by a pest control guy(?). Anyone know if these are actually effective at catching the little buggers? Shouldn't there be bait in the middle or a stuck mouse or two? Should I find out who put in these glue traps and report them to PETA? Should I still recommend another pest guy for evaluation and remedy? (Don't bother with that last one...it's "Yes") Image Insert: 87.87 KB Image Insert: 37.44 KB

John C. I think you only have to look at your photo and realize that what should be used as a temporary extension for a portable appliance has now become "permanent" wiring for a fixed appliance. Even if the extension cord is sized correctly (and that is probably OK), would you allow that permanent "wiring method" anywhere else in the home? Would it be OK to substitute the extension cord with romex wrapped around the track support with a receptacle in a J-box on the end, dangling from the ceiling? Of course not. How many wraps around a track support are allowed for an extension cord? How would you regulate the way a "permanent" extension cord is routed, supported, protected, etc, etc. If it's OK in the garage then can I use one for my fridge, washing machine, etc, etc. Will the one in your photo ever cause a problem? Maybe, maybe not. But there is no doubt that it is less safe than a properly located receptacle, connected with an approved wiring method, allowing a direct plug-in. So why fight it?

Out of curiosity, I googled the average weather for Hudson, Florida. It's on the Gulf coast about level with Orlando. Looks like the temperatures "plummet" (Ha!) to an average of 45 during the year's coldest nights. I don't know what electricty costs back there, but wouldn't a good heat-pump be the most efficient...and all he really needs? I doubt the emergency heat strips would get that much use. No back up for power failures, but when was the last time anyone froze to death in that area?

I might be mistaken, but I seem to be seeing two ridges, with the missing tab in the corner(???). Very odd looking as far the way the shingles have been laid, and I can't quite get my head around that (do we have a wide shot?). However, I'm not sure what is meant by "upside down". It just looks like a tab blew off before the normal adhesive strip on the layer beneath had a chance to stick. Image Insert: 279.45 KB

They might as well hang a Mighty Mouse swiss cheese burner on that thing, the heat exchanger was optimized for oil.[:-crazy] Tom I've always wondered about the efficiency (inefficiency?) of a coverted oil burner. As we are basically talking about a natural draft furnace with a very simple heat exchanger, I've always suspected a LOT more of the heat gets wasted than with, say, a 80 or 90+ furnace. Anyone know the rough efficiency of a conversion? Of course, there always the option of installing an actual gas furnace but I'm with the others in that, if the oil burning furnace is in good shape, it would take a long time to recoup the expense of a change-over...assuming there will be any savings (my crystal ball is broken). There's also the expense of decomissioning the oil tank to consider. On the plus side, once gas is installed, you also have the option of convenient gas for cooking, hot water, the dryer, fireplaces, barbecues and heating spas and pools, and that may affect the decision.

Oh...that's no fun at all! [] Had something similar to Phillip a few weeks ago. Small house from 1900 with newer "wings". The original simple square house was, maybe, 700sf. The framed hole in the roof appeared to be original, but too big for a chimney (apprx 4x8'). The clients and I decided it used to be a bell-tower for a school-house or, perhaps, a small chapel. The MLS blurb said the place was "historic" but didn't give any further details. That might have been referring to the plumbing and wiring! Image Insert: 124.54 KB Image Insert: 140.84 KB Image Insert: 107.68 KB

I'm also in the "if it wasn't required it doesn't get mentioned" camp. Like Mike, I explain existing AFCIs to the client on site. I do have a standard blurb I stick in my report. I also circle and label the test buttons in the photo that shows the service panel disconnect(s). It ain't perfect but, FWIW, this is it...