Richard Moore

I would think that winds blowing around the cabinet could cause positive or negative pressure at the burners depending on the wind direction. Whether the effects would be enough to cause serious adverse effects on combustion and/or drafting is something I don't know, but given strong enough wind, yeah, I could see that being an issue in a carport where it wouldn't be in an attic or crawl. There's also the issue of whether the electrics and electronics are adequately weatherproof. Ultimately, I don't consider a carport "indoors" and I'd have to go with whatever the label says.

It's Australia! Most likely #10 is the poisonous killer termite that can down an inspector with a single bite.

I don't know what types they have down under, but the OP did say dry wood termites. No shelter tubes required if they are the same as ours. He should look for pellets being pushed out of holes or, as you suggest, a good probing.

We were supposed to pick the silliest one, yes?

Nice work, Chad. Were you inspired by other very neat boxes you have inspected? I re-wired my whole house (from KT) almost 20 years ago, including a new 200-amp Square-D QO panel and a sub for the workshop. Sadly, this was before I had seen some of the really tidy panels and wiring as an HI. I don't have any actual "defects", but mine makes a rodents habitat look neat. I'm too embarrassed to post pictures.

Really no need to call Watts, Will. If it doesn't have a pressure relief valve, then it's wrong. But, keep in mind the PRV could be elsewhere. The rule is no shut-offs between the tank and the PRV and the IRC requires them to be "in a water line close to the tank". In a situation such as a basement, where they want to discharge to the exterior, "close" might mean a room above. It would need to be "accessible" but it might not be readily visible. If you are sure there is no PRV, then report it as a hazard in need of repair. If not certain, then explain it's need, that you didn't or couldn't find it, and recommend someone either provide evidence of it's existence and location or have a plumber install one.

Wouldn't it be called a "closer" in this case. I imagine the doors are self opening. []

LOL...when you factor in that the partial address in his profile is a UPS store in north Seattle, I think it might be OK to delete this idiot.

My first ever Consolidated furnace. I heard and read about these during my training but had never actually seen one. Download Attachment: 0058.jpg 188.98 KB This was the attic of a 1977 home. It was just sitting there, abandoned. I have no idea why they left it there. Just plain lazy? Judging by the date on the replacement furnace, this one blew up in 1990. It looks like the whole damn thing caught fire! Nasty!!! (No signs of an attic fire though)

Change is good! Enjoy the new job, Brandon.

You might want to take a look at the the Structural Insulated Panel Association website at http://www.sips.org/ . Everything there seems to suggest that the interior of SIPs roofs should be conditioned and should not have the venting typically found in normal attics. As least, that's my read. See the ridge detail diagrams at http://www.sips.org/technical-informati ... on-details and the "Juneau issue" at http://www.sips.org/technical-informati ... roof-issue. The following is also from the FAQs section... I'm certainly no expert on SIPs homes, and you should probably defer to a SIPs expert, but it does seem that the ridge venting might be creating unwanted air-flow and causing the problems you observed.

No, the double tap is for the doorbell ringer, which some authorities allow here. .... With all due respect to your Canadian authorities, that makes no sense. The Square-D and type CH breakers that are listed for 2 conductors have specially designed lugs that, when used correctly, ensure good contact on both wires. On all others it is possible (maybe not likely, but possible) that one of the two conductors will not be fully trapped and secured under the lug screw. I don't see that it matters if the doorbell transformer tap only has a light load as it could be the main circuit conductor that comes loose and arcs. I have no issue with using the circuit for the doorbell, but the tap should be done with a wire-nutted pigtail.

You have a Cutler Hammer 15-40-40-15 (BQC2402115?) breaker in that third photo with a double tap at one of the 15-amp terminals. There also seems to be at least one too many conductors at the quad 15-amp breaker directly above. To my knowledge, it's only some CH type breakers that are rated (and designed) for two conductors. But, I don't know about needing "immediate repair" so that may not be what you are talking about?

The norm, by far, around here is perimeter vents (always open) and basic 6-mil Visqueen on the soil. I've only seen a fully sealed crawl once. We do have a lot of full basements though.

Oh...and one final thing. The "filter" for the fan is a piece of mesh taped to the intake duct. It is already being restricted by dust, etc. They did install a light in this area but it is a tough crawl almost the length of the home to get to it. Aside from the obligatory granite and stainless in the kitchen, this home reeked of minimum standards. For example, the 9 foot long kitchen island (no sink) only had a receptacle at one end. The master bathroom was huge but was mainly empty floor space with only a small fiberglass shower stall stuck like an afterthought into one corner. And, I'm sure, it was cheaper to use a fan rather than install a bunch of perimeter crawl vents.

New 3-story, 2080sf townhouse in Seattle City limits. End unit of a block of 4. Garage is detached. No exterior crawl vents and at first I thought I had a nice slab. But as soon as everyone arrived and I stepped inside, it was obvious that we had a full crawl. After moving a bunch of 5 gallon paint cans and a large helium cylinder out of a closet I found the hatch. The crawl is for this unit only, standard stem wall between units. Complete, but ordinary moisture barrier and the soil appeared to be bone dry. At one front corner of the crawl there is a continuously operating fan (see photo). This is venting to the exterior in a niche by the front door. At the rear end of the crawl there is a dryer vent type damper (see photo) connected to a short length of duct that in turn is connected to a forced-air type register mounted vertically in the wall just inside the back door. Click to Enlarge 40.68 KB Click to Enlarge 33.61 KB So, besides the annoying noise of the fan clearly audible in the living room, I have a system I've never seen before that seems designed to continuously suck conditioned (heated) air out of the house, which seems a little inefficient. BTW, the home has unitary electric wall heaters only. There is good air flow out of the front vent but after I shut the hatch I checked the wall register with a sheet of paper and, nada, no suction at all. I next get back in the crawl and have the clients close the hatch behind me. The flaps on the intake damper don't move or open at all. So, air is getting sucked into the crawl from elsewhere (or everywhere?). I have checked the Seattle residential code and, evidently, this set-up is allowed. It does not say where the air is supposed to come from! In conclusion: It seems to me that the system was designed to move air from one end of the house interior through the length of the crawl. What is actually happening is the air is seeping in from elsewhere and I would suspect there are some very dead areas. It also doesn't seem like a great idea to forcibly draw damp NW air into a crawl on a continuous basis. The client is rightfully upset about the constant noise (which appears to be a harmonic rather than the fan itself) but I think the whole set-up is crap, even if it is allowed. Thoughts?

Brandon, were your clients on site? I don't think you have mentioned that and, as Kurt implies, it could make a huge difference in the way this gets handled. For the record, I do briefly report what I test in the kitchen, laundry, etc...with qualifiers. If there are no observed defects, I insert (or leave in place) basic boilerplate. e.g. The dual fuel range was tested and all burners and heating elements functioned normally. Note that I do not test ovens for all possible cooking modes, temperature control or any self-cleaning function. I can't say I've ever had an appliance issue like yours (touching wood).

It is rather unfortunate to equate Uncle Louis' assassination with something as mundane as sewer gas but, aside from that, this Kurt chappy's assessment is spot on. A storm in a tea cup. Now, if you will excuse me, I need to Google "Prufrock" while my crumpets are toasting.

Have your clients seen the place and, if so, are they very short and have oversized hairy feet? Is this a short sale? I don't know if there were any height "requirements" (other than common sense) in 1941, but I have to wonder why someone would put an offer on such a place. It sounds very claustrophobic.

Can't help you with the age other than agree that woodgrain panels would suggest 70's, maybe 80's. You have to wonder what was going through their heads at the time. Hey, if we stick fake wood on the front it will look just like fine furniture(?). Is/was there such a thing as an actual 98% gas furnace.

I've never run across one labeled as a Crosley, but your first photo shows Bradford White as the manufacturer and I would expect the serial number to conform to their table. YB would be February, 2002.

Robert, you probably included the trailing period as it was embedded in the original e-mail link. I've now edited it and it should work.

No, I didn't test the TPR valve! Download Attachment: 110803H 059x.jpg 66.07 KB

So does the creosote puff up (or something like that) when it's on fire? My second question is somewhat rhetorical, but why in hell would you not have the damn thing cleaned after the fire?

It is kind of plain but, who knows, maybe that makes it different enough to end up on the positive side. My biggest critique is that I think you need a completely new home page. Others have alluded to it. Your current lengthy index page is informative but would be better off linked to as "About Home Inspections and Inspectors", or something like that. The new page should more immediately, clearly and briefly state that you are in the business of home inspections and ready to work for the reader. One minor grammatical error (and pet peeve): It's its and not it's in "Once you own a house, you own it's problems." at the bottom of your "Who's on your side" page. Feel free to critique mine. I know it's getting a bit stale. I haven't changed much since I first wrote the thing in HTML 9 years ago.