homnspector

Jim, you apparently know a lot more than I do about door openers, however, I find it curious that the adjustment is labeled "Down Force" on most openers, Not "reverse sensitivity" or something similar. This indicates to me that the idea is to regulate the force with which the door reverses. What it sounds like you are indicating is that this is NOT a safety feature, so what is the purpose? Is an opener without an electric eye no improvement over an older opener without ANY reverse? Why is it required? Obviously more expensive to produce for no reason other than recovering the cat's body which could be accomplished with another push of the button. IMO, a simple effective fix would be to require a switch that stops the door 1/2 way down requiring a second push of the button to fully close the door (in addition to the electric eye), but that is probably way too simple. One issue with the electric eye is that if the sun shines on it when the door is open, the door will not close. I have run into this a few times and it is fairly irritating to the homeowner.

Damn, now I'm confused again. I guess in 8 years I haven't had any issues come up with the "hand pressure" method and should continue to use it. Kurt's point is valid though, the adjustment is tough, particularly on heavy doors and rarely stays properly adjusted. I do find that most installers adjust the down force much too heavily, probably to avoid callbacks. I cant see any real value in the 2x4 test for above mentioned reasons. Maybe there is no "easy way out" on this one. Kurt's recommendation to replace any opener without electric eye reverse makes sense but would probably not work for me. Sellers and agents raise hell about having to install a $15 GFCi receptacle, I can imagine what would come of a recommendation to replace a $400 garage door opener that was functioning properly. Sort of like recommending installing AFCI breakers in a 1980 home bedroom circuits. "OK, it may take some re-wiring but it will be safer". At some point we have to just deal with this older equipment and accept that it is not as safe as a new home. I do realize from this thread that at least the consideration of an upgrade should be recommended, IMO to be paid for by the buyer, not the seller.

Good info! My first month inspecting I bent an aluminum door in half. From now on its only the 2x4 method for me.

From bathing the baby in the blue water??

I amnot one to demean a profession, but it seems that in my area, the appraisals nearly always come in at the asking price of the property. I guess the Realtors who set the price are really astute....

Good idea, but if I have to wade through that thing it is probably not worth it.

Do you guys think it is ethical / legal to sell old inspection software you no longer use, or old versions after you have upgraded? I have older versions that are perfectly usable that I have paid for but that I don't need.

Congrats Paul! Is yours the therapy business or the candy store?

I wouldn't hesitate to put them on your web site, most people appreciate the links.

Jim, that was worded a bit strangely. They purchased it from their lawyer but didn't have an inspection. Les, It will be interesting to see what the owners decide to do. In any case it does make you feel that there is some real value in this work. If the worst should happen, the owners can no longer claim ignorance. I am hoping the intention of the owners was really to identify and repair the problems, not simply a means to go after the seller.

Actually, the client was the owner. They purchased it without an inspection from their lawyer and began to suspect problems when lights were flickering, etc. Maybe I can earn some extra income on this one as an expert witness!

We haven't had any pithy topics lately, so I thought I might share some photos from the attic of an Adult Care facility I inspected this week. Dryer and range vent terminate in the attic, a furnace is installed in the attic. I counted about a dozen J boxes without covers and some splices w/o J boxes. All furnace and fireplace vents are covered with lint and grease and most with improper clearances. It is a firetrap with about 8 elderly residents who might not make it out. I HOPE the report will force some upgrades. If not, I think I need to report it to somebody but am not sure of the legal ramifications of such a disclosure to whoever the proper authorities are. Needless to say, the problems were not confined to the attic. Download Attachment: IMGP1201.JPG 161.78 KB Download Attachment: IMGP1205.JPG 122.79 KB Download Attachment: IMGP1209.JPG 85.45 KB Download Attachment: IMGP1213.JPG 111.69 KB Download Attachment: IMGP1216.JPG 147.51 KB Download Attachment: IMGP1225.JPG 138.47 KB Download Attachment: IMGP1237.JPG 128.64 KB

You sure that wasn't Beverly Hillbillies?

Damn, its hot in here, honey, turn up the air conditioner.

Or maybe somebody trying to make a free phone call... Great picture!

From the IRC P2803.6.1 Requirements of discharge pipe. The outlet of a pressure relief valve, temperature relief valve or combina-tion thereof, shall not be directly connected to the drainage system. The discharge from the relief valve shall be piped full size separately to the floor, to the outside of the building or to an indirect waste receptor located inside the building. In areas subject to freezing, the relief valve shall discharge through an air gap into an indirect waste receptor located within a heated space, or by other approved means. The dis-charge shall be installed in a manner that does not cause per-sonal injury or property damage and that is readily observable by the building occupants. The discharge from a relief valve shall not be trapped. The diameter of the dis-charge piping shall not be less than the diameter of the relief valve outlet. The discharge pipe shall be installed so as to drain by gravity flow and shall terminate atmospherically not more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor. The outlet end of the discharge pipe shall not be threaded and such dis-charge pipe shall not have a valve installed.

I haven't seen a drip leg in months. I quit calling out the lack of them, apparently it isn't required or enforced here. Does the loop in the flex count as a drip leg?

The picture is a house I am inspecting today, I stopped by for a quick look and saw the multiple layers. I know it is recommended not to go over 2 layers and it probably voids the manufacturer warranty, but my real question if there is no visible truss sag, the fasteners are long enough to penetrate the sheathing, no significant sheathing sag, what would you recommend? Seems excessive to call for stripping the roof. Outer layer of shingles is maybe a year old. Les, caulk is pretty messy, especially roof cement. Couldnt they just duct tape the exposed edges?

I may have misread your post. Is this a instant hot with a separate tap at the sink? they are dang hot! They have a small storage tank (maybe a pint or so) and are for coffee or tea.

Would you all agree that this is 3 layers of shingles? Is this OK? Download Attachment: tmppic.JPG 107.67 KB

I often see service conductors without anti corrosive. Power company here says it is "not necessary". BTW, what size is the main breaker? Never mind, I see that it is 150 amp. That seems like a lot of circuits for 150 amp.

Like I said, "limited experience", I have maybe run across 5 electric ones. I bought a Bosch propane model back in the mid 1980's. It was a piece of crap. Had a flow sensor that would shut the unit down if water flow was low. Try to take a shower (mixing cold and hot) and the unit would constantly turn on and off. Hopefully they are better these days.

My experience with these (limited) is you will not get 130 degree water. You are lucky if it is even warm. You could turn on the water and check the elec meter, it should be spinning off its bearings if the water is that hot and it is tankless.

"the only difference is that you need to actually touch the end to the testee rather than just getting close." Keep your Fluke away from my testee.

Try http://www.repairclinic.com