homnspector

Is the sub panel grounded to the service panel? The #14 on the 20 Amp breakers is enough to doubt the "professional" installation. Looked at the pix closer and see the ground to the subpanel.I don't see a problem if the subpanel is physically close to the service, but maybe I am missing something. The shared neutral is something I don't like to see but OK by code if the breakers are on different bus and don't serve the same receptical.

https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... Terms=felt Here is a link to this previously

Good point, I meant to say "a small area was already peeled back, perhaps by the termite inspector" Paper was white (actually brown with stains). Looked like standard interior drywall to me. "Should have probed or exposed a little more" I would LOVE to pull a sheet off and see what has happened in 20+ years. I think I will suggest that to the buyer as a condition of purchase. He (buyer) has decided to have some pretty extensive mold testing done.

Badair, you are one sick dude.[:-crazy]

Anybody familiar with Pleko? I think it is the "original" EIFS. I inspected a house the other day that had this installed. There were some cracks that made it evident that it was installed directly on 4x8 sheets. The stuff is about 1/8 inch thick or less. I was thinking, wow, no foam, no lath, installed directly on plywood, not good. I kept looking and found a loose area and found it was in fact installed over DRYWALL! Download Attachment: IMGP3727.JPG 192.85 KB I told the client to get a stucco guy out, but basically to budget for a "real" stucco job. Now I am wondering if they will have to remove the old panels.

Well, the last big one I saw was completely blocking the crawl scuttle. I had to get out my 3mil c.p. spotlight to get her to move.

Shoot, thats a black-baby around here! I pulled up the lid of a water meter box this morning and pissed one off royally.

"That was about 10 tears ago." Nice Freudian typo Paul!

Northeast of there, NE of Baltimore in Harford County. Small town called Fallston (small then anyway). I still have lots of family there.

Incredible building. What is the purpose of the building? A rookery is a bird house isn't it? I could google it I guess. Surprising there are no people around.

100 years is about the oldest we have out here in AZ, and they are no fun to inspect. No foundations to speak of, just timbers on grade, but suprisingly termite free, the old wood was pretty good. I grew up in a house in Maryland built in 1794 on 56 acres, it was quite a place, a long term rennovation project for my Dad, who eventually ran away screaming. My mom sold it in 1976, too much upkeep. It was a good home inspection education for me, I learned alot over the years from my dad and from that house. It wasn't "call a licensed contractor", it was fix it yourself. If you don't know how, figure it out. Download Attachment: nr441p.jpg 274.19 KB

We have quite a few Rumfords around here, somebody in the 70's was an accomplished Rumford builder. I have a friend who put 2 on his patio. They really are quite amazing. The wood usually needs to be burned upright due to the shallow box. If correctly designed, the back of the fireplace is actually pretty much a parabola which tends to explain the heat output. Rumford was a pretty amazing guy. I remember a good artical about him in Natural History about 10 years ago.

Scorpions, Black Widows, Skunks, Rattlesnakes, Dogs; however, most of the agents are reasonably decent people. Don't forget 145 degree attics. I turned on a bedroom ceiling fan at an inspection (using the pull chain), the light globe crashed to the floor next to me. It shook me up a little. Went into the kitchen and turned on the fan and same think. The second one I caught.

It might depend on how soon after ignition you took the photo. If the ignition starts on the right burner, there is a short time lag as the burners individually ignite.

I agree, it sounds like a gas appliance if you think a glass panel was removed. They are not intended for wood burning. It may be worth a trip back to get the model and make. Gas appliances usually use the B vent (double wall) requiring 1 inch clearance. wood burning have a larger vent with more clearance, usually 3 inches clearance and often triple wall. I'm sure a fireplace expert will read and comment, but it doesen't sound safe.

Rob, I am not a fireplace expert, but am not sure what you mean by pre-fab. If it is a factory built gas burning appliance, it is not made for wood burning and not safe for wood burning. Got any pictures?

Wow Randy, small world. We love it here, been here about 25 years. Bought a small house on the river in 1983 for $55,000 and over the years turned it into a big house on the river. If you are ready to buy, go test drive an Element. I say if you are ready to buy because you WILL be driving it home. The first vehicle I have had since my '63 MG midget that is fun to drive.

Nice answers, all. We don't have any CE requirements in Az (yet). Bitching rights may well be worth the cost of admission. AZ uses the NHIE for certification so I would probably go with ASHI, one less hurdle. Besides, the NACHI exam scares me Like you guys, I have only been asked a few times about any professional affiliation. Kurt, I couldn't find much about RESPA but propaganda. If you have time sometine, pose me a link. Thanks

Paul,I have a similar disclaimer but use it if I find 2 or more. I also make note if the windows are dirty. As usual, learned the hard way. Many buyers seem not to care that the electrical system could electrocute them or burn the house down, garage door could kill the kids, furnace has cracks in the heat exchanger, but, by God, you WILL get a call back about that window that fogs up when the morning sun hits it. "The process is harmless. At first I thought the stresses might crack the glass. Haven't cracked one yet." Its good to know that freezing the glass won't crack it. I tried it on some of mine first with no problems. Chris, what you have heard is true, but it is risky to remove their heart ("Indy, cover you haaart"). I do see the compromised seals quite a bit. My theory is that most of the windows we get around here are made in California, near sea level. The combination of heat and elevation (about 4500 ft here) breaks the seal. We have a local window manufacturer (Better-Bilt) and I rarely see problems with those. As an aside,is there any simple instrument to test for tempered glass? (besides a ball-pien hammer, Chris)

Hey Randy, I am vertically challenged but think it would be better than most vehicles for a tall guy. Mileage is 24mpg, a bit more for the standard trans or w/o all wheel drive. when I bought mine it was about 21,000 total. I would expect a couple thosand higher now.

Damn, I thought I invented it. Appreciate the feedback, I wondered if some "unfailed" windows might show signs of condensation. Also, it is so dry here (usually 10% humidity), I wonder if it is reliable.

I have lately been considering joining one of the national orginizations, but I'm not sure why. I have been in this business for 9 years, do little or no advertising and am very busy. I don't need a code of ethics, I have my own. I don't need standards, I am state certified and have to adhere to state standards. I don't need referrals. I get my "CE" by reading the IRC, participating in forums, etc. I try to give back by gratis inspections for low income buyers. I live in a small town in central AZ. and probably could not go too most meetings and seminars. Despite all this, I know many of my peers in my same position belong to and are active in ASHI and others. I know from ASHI mailings that Chris P. is very active. I would appreciate any info on the advantages of the national orgs. Is there a compelling reason to join? Feedback from any of the orgs. is appreciated.

I came up with a nice trick today you guys may want to try. I had a dual pane window that I thought may be compromised but the internal streaking was not real obvious and the window was dirty. I took my can of "air" or whatever it is, the stuff from office max for dusting your computer, from the truck and shot it on the window with no results. But, if you turn the can upside down and shoot it on the window, it will freeze a small area. After wiping off the frost, there was clear condensation on the interior. I tried it on a few other windows that looked OK and no condensation formed. Try it and let me know the results. It seems to be a pretty good test.

OK Show off's. Here is my 2004 Element. Best things I like are the decent gas mileage and all wheel drive for the (very) occasional snow. Exterior unmarred by paint and decals. Download Attachment: IMGP3243.JPG 58.64 KB Back seat laptop Download Attachment: IMGP3240.JPG 57.15 KB Storage / Tools Download Attachment: IMGP3241.JPG 66.21 KB Slide out ladder rack Download Attachment: IMGP3242.JPG 66.85 KB

I don't generate the report on-site but compile it shortly after leaving. It takes me about 1.5 hours to write the report (3D software), insert pics, etc and I would just as soon be gone from the property and away from the client to think and work well. Writing the report immeadiately after the inspection, I can usually write the report from memory without having to refer to my notes, a real time saver. I skim the notes after completion to be sure I didn't miss anything. I have tried, on days where I do 2 inspections, to go home and write the reports. I find it very confusing. So, I sit in my car and write the report then head to the second inspection. I post the reports to the web site and mail a bound hard copy via USPS (usually 4 or 5 dollars).