homnspector

I make sure the client knows the limitations and charge the same. Probably should charge more. The time you save inspecting is not worth the extra time it takes to write the report, having to disclaim all sorts of stuff throughout the report.

Don't worry, usps will let you know if they don't like it. Just be careful, those guys are nuts!

Both spots.

But you can be happy if youve a mind toooo[:-bonc01]

I keep forgetting to use those dang smiles.[:-banghea

Chad, It was in humor. My point is, why does it matter which code a jurisdiction is using? Are you not going to report a lack of AFCI's because where you are they are using the 2000 IBC? I run into this alot here, every town it seems uses a different building code or year. I report the same things, and sure, the builders can and state that it is not a requirement in that town. Doesn't mean it shouldn't be corrected or updated. I don't think I said we shouldn't have code knowledge.

Sycophants abound!

One would think that if there is enough moisture to grow that extensive mold that there would be some other evidence of it, rusted nails, drip stains on the rafters, etc.

Yea, I don't think thats tannin unless it eats away boards. Did you scratch and sniff? I have never seen staining that was glossy, but maybe.

Fire

Interresting, but I don't think we should be concerned about what code they are using. If it needs to be written up, write it up.

Crickey!! Discovered this at an inspection today at the base of the steps. He/she was kindly relocated. Download Attachment: Massasauga.jpg 96.36 KB

I have a small CO detector I wear on my belt turned on throughout the inspection. I don't pay much attention to it unless the beeper goes off, which has happened a few times. More for my own safety rather than "testing". One house I was in was 400ppm+. I quickly went through trying to find the source with no luck. Finally told the homeowner I was getting high readings. It turned out her husband warmed up the car with the garage door to the kitchen open! (another good argument for self closing doors). I told her that probably wasn't a real good idea. I have never found an appliance (with the exception of a gas oven) that produced high levels of CO.

I just renewed with FREA, my preimums are $430 a month for 10 months (includes general liability). Do any of you AZ home inspectors use the $25,000 bond as opposed to E&O insurance? I am wondering how to do the bond and what it costs. As all, I am getting fed up with the E&O. (probably in the wrong forum here but just read the OREP post under this heading).

Hausdoc said: "Vapor is trying to move from warmer/humid to cooler/less humid and is encountering that plastic behind the drywall - plastic that's been cooled by the AC to below dewpoint. If all you had was plain drywall, I bet that the vapor could have safely diffused to the interior where the A/C system would have removed it." I don't see how that can be, that would cause moisture buildup in the wall cavity but not on the exterior of the drywall. Seems to me the humidity problem is in the interior, not the exterior. I agree with Chris, dehumidify the interior air (although who knows what the result will be at the interior of the wall cavity).

If they're in a kitchen cabinet, they may be for under cabinet halogen lights. They sell those do it yourself kits at home depot. That does look like a do it yourself.

"First go to the BTR website and download the evaluation form and double check your own report. I don't know if you are aware but the form was revised about 6 months ago. We raised the bar." No, i wasn't aware. So you change the standards and don't tell the home inspectors?

I agree, turn on the dryer. Do you check if it (the dryer) is 3 or 4 wire and write up 3 wire receptacles? I do now but didn't used to.

I think part of the problem is the dichotomy of viewpoints. One side says "just report the bad stuff" those of us in the real world try to word things to accurately relate the problems to our client without the "sky is falling" diction. I often report things like "generally the fascia is in good condition, however, there is some dryrot at the southwest corner. Replacement of moisture damaged wood is recommended". I am not afraid to report something in good condition. Compare this to "Southwest corner of the fascia is rotted. Fascia in this area should be replaced. The presence of rot in one area may indicate that hidden dryrot is present in other areas of the fascia". I don't think this is the best example I could use but the best I could come up with right now. I think licensing has set us back in some ways. Clients now consider any licensed inspector competent. Used to be the marketplace and courts weeded out the incompetent inspectors, doesn't seem to be that way anymore. Our state board uses the ASHI standards. Is there anybody on this forum that has ever done an inspection that doesn't meet the ASHI standards? Probably not. State licensing has lowered the bar. You can't legislate competence in any field, all you can do is penalize the offenders. I liked it better when the courts sorted out the wheat from the chaff. I think the answer is simply report what you observe. If you don't think it is a big deal, say so. If you think it might kill somebody, say so. I try to write my reports as if I am the client and have no idea of the scope or importance of the issue. If these people were building savy they generally wouldn't be hiring us. In my opinion, it is important to discover, find, observe the problem and just as important to convey the extent and importance of the problem. I don't think it is fair to label a home inspector a "Realtor Toady' because he/she makes light of an issue. The clients are hiring us to find and report the problems and give our opinion on the importance.

Has anybody seen a recirculating pump set up like this? It is kind of Photochopped together Download Attachment: Recircloop.jpg 112.04 KB. I can't figure how the water gets back to the water heater. At the top, the pipe is teed off from the hot water line, then the pump, then disappears into the wall, no return line that I could find so I am guessing the pipe in the wall connects to a hot water line at the far end of the house. If so, it is drawing water from the hot side and circulating it back to the hot side, not the water heater. Doesn't seem like that would work, the same water going around in a loop. What is the gadget at the top with the Schrader valve? There is also a thermostatic control in addition to a timer at the pump receptacle.

Here, thewater co. lets them know when the water bill is $300. No exagerration.

"I'm constantly upgrading my report verbiage" Thats the point. Kind of scary what you were saying 10 years ago, huh?

Nobody in Phoenix (except maybe you) is worried about water. Water is cheap when you STEAL IT from the source.[:-weepn]. Do you know SRP in the 60's cut down all the cottonwood trees along the Verde because they used too much water?? Man, you gotta wonder how much this state can grow before this becomes a limiting factor

I think I stumbled on to the Curves forum by mistake, sorry.

Whoa! You are sooo right. How did we get away with it??