mthomas1

That may well be it.... surface texture looks identical. Can't find any installation instructions on line, through. Is flashing required at horizontal panel junctions?

North Ave. near Talman

It *looks* like fiber cement, but I had a hard time believing that a FC product could deteriorate as fast as the material in the third picture, even with that Cat IV exhaust directed onto it. But I guess if it was cheap-ass *enough*...

Any idea what this might be? My first though was Staccato, but the building is only five years old... Click to Enlarge 54.55 KB Click to Enlarge 45.67 KB Click to Enlarge 64.73 KB

http://www.nachi.org/homesafe.htm

Thanks again for all your efforts!

Hopefully, at lot of this will soon be moot: http://qz.com/139150/how-congress-is-ai ... nt-trolls/ and, it looks like this is one thing Congress may be able to quit bickering and fast-track http://thehill.com/blogs/hillicon-valle ... s-timeline as it appears that the more abusive sorts of Patent Trolls the only people in the known physical universe who have *no* friends in congress. IMO, it's highly unlikely Homesafe would attempt to sue inspectors for our actual practices under the conditions imposed by this legislation.

Thanks. There is also this, which I adapted from a scan from the ASMM: Click to Enlarge 44.32?KB However, none of these directly addres tile copings.

Assuming that there is no flashing under the tile to extend up the wall and counter flash, does anyone have a link to an effective flashing design for the junction of parapet wall coping tiles with adjacent vertical masonry such as these two chimneys? - Thanks Click to Enlarge 39.76?KB Click to Enlarge 26.02?KB

Depending on how those are installed, some jurisdictions may require a backflow preventer on the supply ahead of the return side of the loop.

You can also send them here: Kick out flashing FAQ

Yeah, I'm having trouble with my Fenix. To be precise, I dropped it in about 14 inches of blown-in fiberglass insulation somewhere in the 30 feet between the attic access and the far corner of the attic where I had gone truss-hoping to look at a plumbing vent. Didn't even realize it 'till I got back down the ladder, and when I went back up to look... could... not... find... flashlight - it had vanished without a trace. Moral of the story, I guess, is just leave it on the whole time I'm in the attic, even on the medium-low setting (which is where I leave of most the time in attics) I could probably have spotted it once he attic light was off. Gotta' say, though, I loved that light, enough anyway to have ordered another overnight shipping.

Once or twice a year I catches a kitchen or bathroom cabinet they failed to even cut the opening in the toe-kick - shows up nicely on IR.

For a while there, I was buying bits and pieces at demo sales on the North Shore (scored some nice material, too). A lot of expensive homes... most badly obsolescent. There were one or two housebreakers, though.

The other side of all this is: Working on 1880s houses where you open the walls and half the studs are fished together from various pieces of scrap, the floor joists on the first floor are perpendicular to the second and ALL the load at the center of the house is on that one cracked joist you just found in the basement, etc. .... and realizing that the idiots who screwed it up are long dead and beyond the reach of you wrath, and likely this second laughing at you as they swill warm beer on their lunch-break in the Carpenters' Circle of hell.

Perhaps it's all a round-about way of saying that all houses look better without lipstick?

They have some really nice detailing for stucco diving below grade as well, if you insist on doing so....

I really like that, and I'm going to steal it, to use when explaining this stuff to clients.

I call those roof details "when CAD goes bad" - you can design it, but who can build it? Assuming that the client wants to retain the current general configuration, the only solution I can see is to get a Really Smart Roofer who knows how to field-fabricate soldered flashings to tear out the siding and roofing as required and fabricate a single piece corner flashing for that area - in Chicago I know of exactly ONE roofer I would trust to do it, and only if I was able to observe the entire process.

The Floodcheks are just higher quality hoses. I use them at my rentals, so far, so good.

Mike, One thing to keep in mind: Click to Enlarge 52.59 KB

A Hoodie can be very dangerous if you wear it backwards. But there is a 50/50 chance you'll put it on right, so they're just as safe as a Stab-lok breaker. [] !!!

Greg, Can I print that out, and use it verbatim with my clients?

Also, check out Floodchek Hoses

Well... I've got around 3,000 images that I have extracted from various sources for insertions into reports, and it takes around 5 mins to extract and format each one. That's around 250 hours - more than a month of full-time work - and that was the easy part, I had to find all this stuff in the first place. So not to seen un-gracious: but no, I can't just give that away. What I *am* always happy to do is point anyone who asks in the direction of hard-to-find documentation, and I appreciate it when other do the same. But the case of things like appliance manufacturer's instructions, it's pretty much just a matter of GOGGLING then up, and extracting and formatting the material as needed for a given report - do that for a while, and pretty soon you find you have a few thousand images! And for me, anyway, the payoff has been a lot fewer arguments with sellers, contractors and developers, and a lot fewer post-report questions from clients.