robert1966

Honestly that's a good question because I was thinking the same he has a 150 main service breaker out side, square d 40 slot box up stairs and it looked it up and couldn't find max amps because he has like 450 already in use (boat lift, underwater lights, etc. ) , but yeah I was just curious because I thought I read somewhere that in Texas the homeowner was allowed to make changes like that and it still be covered since it's his house. But yes, he's definitely going to have an electrician do it I was just curious! Basically run a 50 amp from breaker box to small sub panel by hot tub with 50 amp arc fault breaker.

So my buddy just got a hot tub for his bay house in Bayou Vista (gulf coast near Galveston). He needs a 50 amp breaker ran to it for power. His main service disconnect is located outside and downstairs seeing how his house starts on the second level since he lives on the water. His main breaker panel is in his master bedroom though? Im curious if there is a stipulation that allows for it to be in a master bedroom if they are close enough to the water? Also his main service disconnect is only 50 feet from the hot tub instead of the main breaker being 300 ft after all the twists and turns. I know you aren't supposed to double lug the main supply technically, but couldn't he do it since it is his house? And I guess the only other option is to go up through the attic and out the side of the house and back down, or go down and have to remove sheetrock and drill through sole plate into the garage and out the garage wall.?? His whole downstairs is covered by the house obviously... and is concreted only a garage , kinda like the neighbor in the photo but more open. Sorry should have taken more photos. tried to google map it to show you an idea and the house isn't even there yet lol Click to Enlarge 2179.5 KB Click to Enlarge 40.92 KB

Marc, sorry if that part came out confusing, I agree with you. What I meant by that was, it's possible to have settlement and foundation issues with out brick cracking, but normally that indicates that the settlement is not very severe. I too gauge how progressed and severe foundation issues are by whether or not it has affected the wall covering.

Hey everyone! Thanks for the responses. Sorry I was so brief on the description, Yes there were interior traces that correlate with the new expansion joint that had formed. [:-slaphap Pretty much everything you could imagine cracked sheetrock, cracked tiles, doors not closing, plumbing pipes that had broke. Anything you could think of. It was built in the 80's and was a commercial property. Yes I noted the electrical issues! Normally IMO yes it is very possible to have settlement or foundation issues without brick veneer being affected. From my experience, properties that have foundation issues, if the brick or whatever veneer is used, is cracked severely like this case, then the damage is usually due to the settlement. Now if a property doesn't have significant structural signs then yes I would say it was related to the product or installation.

Well some people just don't believe their property has foundation problems until you explain what things like these mean! Click to Enlarge 79.43 KB Click to Enlarge 73.08 KB Click to Enlarge 76.43 KB

I have a FLIR I7 and I have been happy with it so far. It gives me just what I need in infrared scanning.

What is the recommended training for pool and spa inspections? What certifications are required? Also, is there and approved checklist out there for these inspections.

I think you have a reason to be concerned, your thoughs on the condensation make sense to me. The contract is probably not concerned with condensation as you the home owner would be. He has probably cashed his check and moved by to Texas for warmer climates by then anyway.

I inspected a foreclosed home on New Year's Day and I recommended having the pipes scoped because of the foundation conditions. The fact that the neighbor told me that it had severe plumbing problems on the right side had nothing to do with it. I current recommend having a scope or hydrostatic test on most homes that have significant foundation issues.

I have seen discolored copper from chemical vapors, one time it even corroded the cabinet hinges next to the panel.... There appeared to be brass hinges as well. Chlorine and other chemical vapors can cause severe corrosion and discoloration.

I see all kinds of flat roofs in the Houston area, normally room additions. All leak at some point or another, most of the time they just slap more tar on the problem and it just raises the level in that spot to cause the water to pond in another.....You guessed it, now it leaks there.

I have two questions: At what point are foundation cracks severe enough to note as severe? What method do you use to inspect home foundations? Any special tools or measurement devices such as water levels or zip levels?

What's your take on ventless vs. vented gas logs, or gas logs in general. I am often ask for advice, I normally refer they to the manufacturer and to local experts. I have read lots of materal on vented vs. ventless and for heat output I am not impressed with either. I beleive here in Houston, you can just wait until the weather changes in 30 minutes or so and you won't need either.

If it is Explorer, and most photo programs, Terrance hit it right on the head....

I think it needs more meat in the wording, what they exactly do....Also if they want max benefits, it should be optimized for the web, include keywords.[:-paperba

Can't be seen by the naked eye, which means it has endless uses. Most of what I have read is it will be used to protect materials, special application coating, etc.... Extract from physorg.com Other factors to consider include the substance itself – silicon dioxide. When inhaled in macroparticulate form it can cause silicosis of the lungs; nanoparticles may have different toxicity, although none apparently have been reported with this product. Yet.

I inspected a home about 2 months ago that was foreclosed. The bank had it winterized, but it seens someone came in after tat, opened all the valves to include upstairs, closed all the drains and left......

I agree, refer to an electrician, and recommend full panel replacement.

Is this what is meant by the name "Duct Tape"?[:-party] Happy New Year Download Attachment: 069.JPG 98.07 KB

I normally not that stains, algae and mold, etc should be removed to extend the shingle life. I also perform 4 Point Insurance inspections and thry do not require any specific comments about stains, algae, etc. They just want to know life span.

I have seen several storm chasing roofers in Houston after Hurricane Ike and most installed them as Jim noted in his first post. Flip them, cut off the corners and nail them along the tar line 6" up from the edge then lay on the first course.

We were buying a new home in Pearland, TX and the builder had a fire hydrant at the end of the driveway and the 20' drive was reduced to 11' due to the placement of the hydrant. We refused to close on this home.

I have seen similar situations with no lintel or decayed metal lintels, all resulting if sagging as seen in your photo.

I agree with Jim, water proofing without proper drainage is hopeless most of the time. I have seen numerous products used to prevent water intrusion, but without proper exterior vapor barrier and drainage system they eventually fail.

That looks really bad, I would be afraid of horizontal pressure. I had a contract do about the same hen tiled a bathroom shower, by the time he reached the top he was 1.5 inches out of plumb.